Here’s how I changed my rotors today.
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I am not a professional at all and I may have done something wrong. If anyone can add to this PLEASE do.
Ingredients:
Rags
2 rotors and new pads w/squeak indicators
Tire iron Jack and stand
Screwdriver set
Wrench and socket set
3.5mm hex wrench (Allen wrench)
Hub nut removal socket 4 pronged
“Small “side cut” pliers
2 hammers 1 BFH and 1 claw
Magnetic retriever
Large “C” clamp
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I don’t know any torques for any of this I hope someone can add them later.
1<SUP>st</SUP> park truck under shade tree on level pavement. Break loose lug nuts. Jack truck up on the axel and set jack stand under axel (the stand is there for 2<SUP>nd</SUP> safety if jack fails). Finish taking off the lugs and remove tire.
Use a ½” wrench to remove the caliper the rest it on the leaf springs (don’t let it hang). Remove break pads. Then remove the caliper holders with a 22mm ratchet wrench (1/2” drive).
Now for the hub. I have Warn manual hubs other may be different. Take out the 6 3.5mm hex (Allen) screws. The 1<SUP>st</SUP> piece will jump right off, keep an eye on the spring and lay on rag. There are some gear looking things in there and on the outer ring I saw 1 small cross tip (Phillips head) screw. I took it out for spits and giggles (I have no idea what is for). Now the tricky part there is a retaining ring around the gear holding it in the hub, I took a very small screwdriver and pried up the end. Then I got on it with a small “side cut” pliers and pulled it out (when you get to it you will get the idea). Now, remove the gear assembly and lay on the rag. I did not use a hub nut remover but it is HIGHLY RCOMENDED! I tapped out the 1 nut w/hammer and screw driver. Then use the magnetic retriever to remove lock washer. Then I tapped out the 2<SUP>nd</SUP> nut. The 2 nuts are not the same so try not to mix them up. Now pull hub/rotor off towards you and catch the bearing as it comes off and lay it on the rag w/everything else.
Pull the rotor off and lay on the street w/threads of the lugs up. Now take your BFH and slam the lugs out. Now take your claw hammer and insert between the hub and the rotor and smack the head of it with the BFH and work your way around until it separates. Now invert the hub and set the new rotor on it and drop in the lugs and drive them in w/your BFH. Don’t worry about driving them home, just get them good and snug.
At this point I would’ve replaced the bearings but I did not have enough foresight.
Place the hub and rotor assembly back on the spindle. Place the bearing back on spindle (skinny side 1<SUP>st</SUP>, in case you forgot).
Take the nut and screw back on (if they got mixed up- the one with the tit on it goes on 1<SUP>st</SUP>) make sure the tit is facing out towards you. This should not be to tight. I do not know what the torque is but I know the “feel” for bearings what ever it is it can’t be much. The hub/rotor must turn easily w/o being rattely. Now insert the washer making sure the tit falls in a hole on it (you may have to loosen or tighten the nut just a tad to get it). Now put the last nut back on. Now put you gear assembly back in and sneak that tricky retaining ring back on with a small screw driver and determination. Don’t forget to put that small Phillips head screw back on for spits and giggles. Now put the manual switch back on the hub, don’t forget the spring.
Breaks. Put the caliper holder back on (make sure it is TIGHT). Remove the “squeak indicators” and pop on the new ones. Spin the rotor, hear squeaking? The indicators and not on right. Install the new pads (I find it easier to start at the top) you may need some persuasion with some VER LIGHT taps w/a small hammer. Remove the cap on the master cylinder. Take the caliper off the leaf spring and lay it on the rotor. Take an old break pad and lay across both caliper cylinders. With your large “C” clamp compress the cylinders back in the calipers till it won’t go no more. Take off “C” clamp and put back on the holder over the break pads, start at the top (you may have to push the rubber boot looking things out of the way. Insert your 2 bolts and tighten them up. Put the cap back on the master cylinder (we don't want to leave the cap off for long b/c the break fluid attracts moister)
Put the tire back on and tighten up the lugs till the wheel turns. Remove the jack stand and let down the truck and remove the jack. Go back and tighten up the lugs. The lugs will have resistance on them b/c the lugs are not all the way in the hub/rotor assmbly yet. What I did was keep tightening them until the truck was rocking back and forth.
VERY IMPORTANT: start the truck and pump the breaks till you get a pedal before driving. Test drive it to the beer store and relax.
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Nice write-up Cope. I hope there was bearing grease involved somewhere along the line. Torque spec I think is 50lbs to set the bearing. Back off and torque to 18lbs. Or back off 1/4 turn. Then the outer retainer torque is like 160lbs. Off the top of my head for a Dana 50. The 60 might be different but I doubt it. Someone will chime in if I am mistaken. Reps to ya!

 

Well one of your answers is correct. Torque on a D60 is 50 ft-lbs while turning hub back and forth then back off 1/4 turn. lock ring should line right up. Thats what ford says to do.

 

Good point, I did repack the outer bearings but I did not tap out the inner bearings. I just made sure that there was no rust or debris that fell in them. I just rubbed some grease on them, right or wrong. Thanks for the reps.

 

Good job I guess but next time use the correct tools, claw hammers have been known to shatter when beat upon and the spanner is not that expensive and you can use it later. Axle is spelled Axle. Bet I've seen it spelled Axel, my nephew's name, a hundred times.

Doe's this gun make me look fat?

 

Well, actually I purchased a hub nut remover (not a spanner wrench) but it was the wrong size. The claw hammer worked great and I can not think of anything that could work better. My wife pointed out that I mispelled axle but she has always been critical of the things I do, always going behind me proof reading things trying to find something wrong (women, sheesh)! Thanks for the input Passin

 

This is just like that funny little Phillips screw, pointless, but I just entertained for spits and giggles. When you are faced with it you will see.
did I do some grammar error?
PS it doesn't make you look fat. I Ihave sent more lead downrange against an armed enemy (returning fire) in 15 minutes then you have in your whole life

Just drinken a little brother, Happy Fathers Day

 

Copedowg, I owe you a case of beer! You posted this the day I was changing my rotors and the directions were written perfect. Only thing was there was no Philips head screw inside of mine....

Man those bearing hold down bolts were a nightmare to get out! Ended up needing to use air chisel with a V-tip, and slowly increased pressure to it until it loosened up

Also replaced bearings and races while i was in there.... that was a pain

Rep points sent

Robb

 

I am glad this helped, Robbgt.
I still have no idea what that tiny phillips screw was for. I do feel like I slipped by not changing the bearings but I will do it the next time.
Next time I get up to MA or NH, I will take you up on that beer.
Thanks for the reps!

 

I relaced my brakes yesterday and noticed two things. With the drivers side up, I spin the tire and the front drive shaft spins. Whith the passenger side up and tire spun the shaft does not spin. Is this normal? Maybe b/c of limited slip? OR is my hub engaged on the driver side?
ALSO I I quoted this from my origanol post:
"Now for the hub. I have Warn manual hubs other may be different. Take out the 6 3.5mm hex (Allen) screws. The 1st piece will jump right off, keep an eye on the spring and lay on rag. There are some gear looking things in there and on the outer ring I saw 1 small cross tip (Phillips head) screw. I took it out for spits and giggles (I have no idea what is for)."

I now know what that cross tip screw is foe. It holds in the 1st gear looking thing from sliding out.

 

the axle should not turn ever when the hubs are unlocked. Something is wrong with your hub on that side. It's hard to put the warn manual together wrong but ya never know. Maybe too much grease on the locking part???

I hope all of you reading this are also pulling the spindle and greasing the bearings inside it. Noone ever does hardly. You need a slide hammer and spindle puller that threads on to it to do it properly. DO NOT use a chisel!

 

That is what is what I was afraid of. That may be a reason for poor milage, I will add that to the list of stuff to do, sigh.

 

THis winter fuel isn't helping either. Just take the cap off and turn the wheel. The axle should be staying still. If not then maybe something in the **** is messed up.

 

Dan, I used a chisel and some help from a rubber mallet when I pulled my spindles off.. Didn't hurt anything.. Just tossing that out there. I couldn't find the proper puller anywhere, so the chisel got it done in less time than it took me to go to the several different parts stores I went to looking for the puller...

Good job copedawg!