On my 2001 Ford Expedition, 5.4L 4x4, running lights to trailer not receiving power, but all other lights work (this is complete opposit of what I am finding when searching older threads).


I don't see anything in the owner's manual showing "Trailer Tow running lights".

Can anyone point me to
1) the correct fuse
2) the correct relay (I'm ready to start the proces of replacing relays).
3) the connection on female end of the 7-blade round trailer plug that I could be checking for power. Or perhaps the color of the wire from the box that runs into this female end of the plug, maybe I can track it back up to the fuse pannel.


I have waterproof diodes trailer lights.

I can tow during the day..

On my way home from the repair center, someone told me that my "brake" trailer lights were not working... no big deal, during the day with a 22' Walkaround boat, so I managed to get it home (I normally keep this in a shed up on the lake). When I returned home, I noticed several crushed/cut wires in the wire harness on the trailer (runs into the neck of the boat trailer and back to the brakes and running lights). This could easily have been where the wires became wrapped under, and wedge between the trailer and the hitch. Last week I cut (at the point where they were crushed) all wires, soldered, liquid taped, and shrink tubed each of the wires. I even soldered the white wire onto a screw on the trailer (I believe this is gound).

After I was done, I found that I had stop/brake, left turn, and right turn lights. However, I noticed that I don't have any power to the running ligfhts on the trailer. This had worked back on January 1st (last time I had my boat in the water).

I tested 2 different "7- way blade to 4 pin flat connectors", and still no power to the running lights. I also used my little "Trailer light tester" (a 2" plug for your trailer light connector that has 3 little lights to if you have power to "Tail" L.T. R.T" - and the lights for L.T. and R.T. also indicate if stop/Brakes combination are receiving power. I could be mistaken, but I believe
that since these are diode lights, the same diodes are used for braking, signaling, and running and there is no subset of diodes (or seperate filaments/bulbs for each function).

I have checked all the fuses listed between pages 175 and 182 (both under the hood and bottom left of the steering column) in the 2001 Modely Year Expedition Owners manual. I replaced a couple 10A and 20A fues that seemed questionable (I have 4 boxes of fuses in my glove box). This is not the first time I had issues with my trailer lights, but most of the problems have gone away since I upgraded my lights to dunkable ( water proof diode) style lights. I am good to tow during the day, but not at night or early morning.

Thank you

 

Look at pages 185 through 188 of your owners manual.

 

Sorry, but those pages, in my owners manual 2001 Ford Expedition, cover how to remove the lug nuts and change a tire .

 

The pages he quoted are from the PDF version. You can download the PDF version of your owner's manual here:

https://www.fleet.ford.com/maintenan...ls/default.asp

 

Thanks for that information to the .pdf version of the Owners Manual.

I down loaded it immediately...

I'm don't know how much they cost, but I think I will look into replacing Relay 201 (Trailer Tow Park Lamp Relay) and 203 (Trailer Tow Backup Lamp Relay.

Except that it indicates "Should be replaced by qualifed technicians" (I wonder what that means


I checked at a local shop "Driver Edge".. they indicated it would cost $103.00 dollars for them to isolate and fix that running light issue.

I think I will play with it a little more, and hopefully figure it out (or continue to tow during the day).

 

Under the left rear corner of the vehicle are two connectors for the trailer pigtail. Have you inspected these for signs of damage or corrosion?

 

I was troubleshooting the 00 gator as to why I couldn't get power to the trailer plug on reverse lights. The factory never installed the back up light relay in the fuse box under the hood.

 

with respect to the connections on the rear driver side, I looked at where one plugs into the other and I don't see any type of corrosion, but I didn't try and pull them apart (I pressed down on the metal clip, that connects to the latch which keeps the two plugs together, but wasn't able to seperate the two plugs. I didn't want to put a screw driver up in there and pry them apart (probably something else holding them together as well).

I guess I could spray WD-40 in there (but don't know if that is a good idea either), and wrap the entire thing with silicone tape (the stuff that doesn't stick to anything but itself, and creates a heat resistant, water-tight seal).