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just put 2 50W halogen offroad lights in the bumper, i was gonna run power from bat + to inline fuse to switch to lights and run the ground up to the batt - ground on the fender... i was just wondering for the inline fuse what size do i need for this? i am only running 2 lights to this fuse as of now but i might add a few in the future would i need to go to a bigger fuse then?
is there a formula or something to figure this out?
I would use a relay in there too. Run the light power (from the battery) through the fuse and relay. Then run a second "signal" line from the switch in the cab to the relay. This will keep the load (lights) close to the battery, which will minimize power losses, maximize light output and keep the high current out of the cab.
and thats a good idea brian, i did not think about that, thanks guys...
i plan on running all the offroad lights that are aimed forward (i will be adding more) on one fuse/switch, and the ones aimed rearward on a separate fuse/switch,from the same power (POS battery) and ground (Neg batt ground), sound like an appropriate setup?
I would use a relay in there too. Run the light power (from the battery) through the fuse and relay. Then run a second "signal" line from the switch in the cab to the relay. This will keep the load (lights) close to the battery, which will minimize power losses, maximize light output and keep the high current out of the cab.
Just my .02
Excellent advice. I had the same thought but it would take me 300 words to say the same thing.
and thats a good idea brian, i did not think about that, thanks guys...
i plan on running all the offroad lights that are aimed forward (i will be adding more) on one fuse/switch, and the ones aimed rearward on a separate fuse/switch,from the same power (POS battery) and ground (Neg batt ground), sound like an appropriate setup?
You don't need to go back to the (-) terminal of the battery. Just find a solid ground (bolt, unpainted metal) to go to and you're set...
You don't need to go back to the (-) terminal of the battery. Just find a solid ground (bolt, unpainted metal) to go to and you're set...
yeah...i used a ground on the frame for testing purposes...i was just thinking that because it already has a stud so all i need is an eyelet, theres not paint there, its ready to go, just plug er in, and thats probably the best ground on the truck to begin with...i was talking about the ground on the fender for the neg batt not the neg batt itself
ok i use to know this but can someone refresh my memory, i got the relay i know i run 87 to the battery with an inline fuse and then i THINK i run 30 to the lights and 85 and 86 are for the switch correct?
You are correct. But run 85 or 86 to a good ground, and run the other to the switch(which is supplied with power). Or, you could run a jumper between 87(hot wire) and 85 or 86, and then run the other to the switch, and then hook the other terminal of the switch to a good ground. 85 and 86 are the coil, so get 12v across these two terminals somehow to make the relay "click".
set it up the way franklin2 suggested and i worked damn fine...biggest most time consuming issue was getting the wires through the firewall and up into the dash, now the lights work, i did not however run power to the light in the switch so it doesnt light up but it works good, and that peterbilt rocker switch fits awesome in there haha but its like $30
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