I looking to cnotch the frame on my 55 f100. Im also bagging the truck for those that dont already know. I want to really lay the frame down so just 1/2 of the frame notch will not do. What do you guys think i should use for the steel? Should i buy a kit or build it my self? I have no problem with building it myself just dont know really the correct way. All ideas welcome!!

 

I am using 10 ga to build my step notch.. will post pics tomorrow
they make kits too, but the usually have heavy side pieces that make a bulge as it clamps around the existing boxed frame.

Sam

 

here's a picture of mine

 

I used 3/16 flat hot rolled and heat bent it. The steel was slightly wider than the frame so it protrudes on both sides. This way I could fillet weld inside and outside. I also boxed the frame and fillet welded the boxing plate to the c notch plate.

 

rhopper, did you stay within the frame or did you go above the frame like Keith? Do you have any pics?

 

Sam, are you doing the step notch as Keith did?

 

For what it's worth, I pie cut the rails and raised the kick up in the frame rather than cut it, it's a lot easier than it sounds. You don't lose an appreciable amount of length either, the rear tires fit perfectly in the wheel openings.

 

I am doing a step on the next truck. here is a pic of the progress so far the diagonals will have bracing on the inside, plug welded.. top of frame will not be cut.

Sam

 

Sam, so you are not going to cut the top of the frame for it will be the bottom of the notch? Are you just welding in the plate off the side on the inside after you cut the frame? I see some people overlap the outer plates on the frame, this looks like you wont be doing this. Is there any way i could get some dimensions of the plates you are using.

 

overlap outer or inner, same thing.. I wanted to have a clean edge, so will add the reinforcement on the inside. plug welded to the outside. the strength of the chassis is required forward of this.. only the bed is hanging on the back part. suspension connects forward of the notch.

correct, top of frame rail will now be the bottom of the notch.

will measure.. think its 16in long, 6+4+6 (4 for the notch size).

our reasoning on this size is that it will get us to 2in at the running board when the bags are down with our 20x10 wheels and tires. we don't need to go more.

Sam

 

Sam, thanks for the pic!! I will copy you if you dont mind? So if you could double check the measurements that would be great.

 

Nice job Sam take lots of pictures. I maybe following your lead as well.

 

Got 3/16" plate today so i hope to have the notch done this week.

 

I stayed within the frame on mine. I only needed a small amount of clearance, so I could accomplish my notch without cutting the top of the frame.

 

for those that want to try this too..

my 9inch rear axle is 3 in diameter, so we want the top of the notch to be slightly bigger.. we picked 4 inches. the chassis here is 4 inches high (on the 56 chassis) at the axle centerline.

so we measure out a 4x4 box directly centered over the axle centerline, and we want at least a 45 degree angle for the notch angle piece.. so, using a right triangle, we draw out from the box vertical 4 inches. on both sides.

the top of the new notch will be 3/16 or so material, you want to make the weld seams rounded when finished, so you want the two pieces to touch inside edges before welding.. this means that the top piece width is the width of the chassis minus 2 thicknesses of your material.

the inside supports from the old top of the chassis to the inside of the new notch top will be the same as the notch width.

the fun part here is to then add a reinforcement on the inside, between the old chassis and the new boxing plate. this requires a small slit in the top edge of the chassis big enough to get the material in. it does NOT have to be the full size of the opening, 1/2 will do. We will drill 2 plug weld holes thru the chassis side (and boxing plate on the other side)... then plug weld the support to the chassis rail and boxing plate. note that it is easier to cut these out BEFORE putting the hat on like I have done. measure, mark, cut.. I will extend the re-inforcement all the way to the vertical pieces and tack weld them to the uprights.


once you have welded the top hat on, like in the pics, you can then support the frame forward of the notch, and just hold up the rear.. and cut out the lower section.
along the lines parallel to the top hat angle piece..
do NOT cut the bottom of the chassis just the sides. then you can slice the center of the bottom of the chassis, and with heat, bend it up to close the open chassis rail.
(one less weld to make and clean line)..

the top fill piece will need 8 holes drilled.. 2 on each side for the plug weld to the reinforcement piece. and 4 smaller holes that will be used to plug weld the side to the vertical pieces too.. note that because of the thickness of the material here, you may have to heat/bend the reinforcement piece a little to get it flat against the new boxing plate before plug welding.. you need a total of 4 weld points on each re-inforcement piece. 2 on the old chassis, 2 on the new notch.


this is think stuff, make sure your welder is up to the task, and practice a little to get the heat/speed right for the plug welding.. you need these to be secure.

and of course, make sure you mark the axle centerline.. a good way is to use a punch on the top of the notch hat to secure the mark.

of course, you should measure side to side to make sure the axle centerline is really centered..

I know that was a lot of text.let me know what I need to clarify

Sam