Sam, i thought you went longer on the inside plate to overlap the inside of the frame. I thought you where going to keep the outside of the frame flush. But after seeing your pics i see both sides will be flush. Thanks for they clear pics and your help. Im sure others will do the same. I hope to lay out the pieces i need tomorrow and start the notch. I may run tube over the frame from side to side to support the airbags. Im just thinking about the bags as i go! Thanks again!!!!

 

I had already boxed the inside of the frame before we determined that we needed this step..

SO, if you are doing this from start. the inside MUST BE BOXED.. you can do it as a part of this step install, or separately.. but you MUST..

Sam

 

Sam, i will be boxing the frame as well. How far should i go? Say where to start? I was thinking infront of where i have my 4 bar brackets on the frame and all the way to the rear? Is this over kill?

I just removed the rear end from the truck and setup on jack stands. I will be grinding/wirewheel the paint off the frame so i can lay out my plan of attack! I will be taking lots of pics for others to see! i will also try to keep track of the dimensions as well. Im like a kid in a candy store just thinking about this!!!!!

 

on the 55 I boxed from the back of the crossmember at the rear of the cab (brake cables hang from there, and the front hanger for the rear leaf spring is there too), to the front of the shock brace.

on the 56 we are boxing the entire frame. we removed the mid rear mount to make room for the under bed tank, and put that cross member at the end of the frame. we boxed all the way to that cross member at the end.

Sam

 

Sam, would you cut the plate to fit inside the frame or same as the frame or leave half in the frame and half out to weld?

 

I have the inside corners touching. then weld to fill that square open space.
This way you know you have blended with both surfaces.

Sam

 

Thanks Sam!! You have been a great help to me with this info! I only wish i could return the favor some how!

 

Don't Keep the faith, pass it on

Sam

 

There should be as much uncut material above the notch as the height of the original frame no matter how deep your notch is. 3/16" stock is really overkill though, 10 ga (1/8") the same as the original frame material is more than sufficient. Remember that however high you raise the frame you will need to raise the bed floor an equal amount.

 

oh, to make this work 'easily', we made little tabs(1in x 1in) out of sheet metal, and spot welded them to the inside of the frame box with one face flush with the frame edge so that we could clamp the boxing plate. used about 40 of these little things the length of the chassis on both sides (using 4ft boxing plate strips).

Sam

 

yes, managing the bed/bed floor after all this is a 'fun' challenge..

sam

 

here is a update!!! <a href="http://s919.photobucket.com/albums/ad37/rtcalabrojr/?action=view&current=011.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad37/rtcalabrojr/011.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

theres more in my photobucket site if you wish to look!

 

Very Nice..

Sam

 

Sam, i kinda keep the same as you but i changed some of it. I ran the side plates over the side of the frame. I just feel better knowing theres overlap. I may in the future tow around my cobra kit car. Like i said in the future! It looks far away! LOL

 

no problem.. whatever you feel comfortable with.. towing adds a completely separate requirement I don't have!

I am going to add re-inforcement on the inside and plug weld.. effectively the same.

Nice welds by the way..

Sam