MoyockPowerstroke...Thanks for the additional photo posting. Yes, I believe I will run it just as you have it, looks like it was meant to be in that location. Going to order my canister on Monday and should have everything ready to install around a week or so after that. I will post up some photos when I am done. While my engine compartment and wheel well area might be a bit different as I have a year 2000 7.3, the areas of importance are probably identical. Thanks for your much appreciated help and I will let you know how it went.

 

No problem my friend...glad to help. See around campus.

 

Hey there, another question Moyock. I ended up ordering a larger T-strainer with 1 and 1/2 inch inlet and outlet opening as the canister was a bit larger as well which will flow more volume. After seeing the size of that Racor6000, I figure more flow can't hurt. I am next looking to pickup up reducers to go to a 1 inch barb from 1 and 1/2 inch female NPT for the hose. May have to use a series of straight and 90 elbows as in your set up. What plastic material are your elbows, reducers and fitting made out of? Do you know the temp range of blowby gasses a few feet outside of the motor? Want to make sure I get the right material fittings as there are a lot...cold water PVC (not sure of temp limit), high temp CPVC (up to around 200 degrees), nylon, brass, galvanized. Would like to avoid the metal materials due to weight and they hold on to heat/sweat. After making a few calls, it seems smaller size stuff is easier to find that is under 1 inch but larger stuff is rare. If just white plastic standard cold water PVC will suffice than there is more out there. Let me know what you ended up using. Thx.

 

Cav....know what you're going thru. I used the grey conduit barbed fittings from the home depot...I know they're not as strong (in terms of temperature resistance as CPVC...but finding that stuff in barbed is impossible), but they have been working just fine so far. Not sure what the immediate temps are but I imagine they're not greater than what I'm seeing on the ECT/EOT of 190'F...most likely less than that.

 

Another place to look for fittings is an irrigation/landscape supply place (Like Horizon). They will have sch 40 and 80. If you use 45's rather than 90's your flow will not be as restricted.

 

I love the sound of 45's ...I'll have to check into this....how do you like Bilstein's?

 

Bismic - I was pondering your vacuum/backpressure measurements and thought that was very interesting. Thought this might be relevant. It is a flow/pressure calculator which allows you to enter the length and diameter of the hose you are using and enter initial pressure (which for our application is not much). It will then calculate the drop in pressure which I then interpret (maybe I am mistaken here) as essentially resistance and therefore the amount of backpressure created. For a 16 foot, .75 inch diameter hose pushing 10 CFM air mass out at .5 PSI, the amount of pressure lost through the hose travel is .16

For those using 1 inch diameter hose that number drops dramatically to .03

Of course, any bends and or reducers along the way will potentially increase that number somewhat but it appears there is definately additional buffer room remaining before hitting the .3 number stated by Racor. This is good to know that if using 1 inch hose you allow yourself a fair amount of room for an intermediate filter such as a Racor or other device.

What do you think of that data? Relevant and/or accurate to some degree based on what you found?
You can run calculations yourself at:

Air Flow Calculator

 

Your numbers are close to mine. You have to adjust for the operating temperature (this will give you ACTUAL CFM, not STANDARD CFM to do the calculation from). The temperature adjustment will increase the ACTUAL flow by another 50%. Also, you do need to leave some pressure loss for the filter. My numbers showed that you could get to 0.5 psig back pressure w/ a 3/4 inch hose IIRC (your calculator link came up w/ 0.35). Since the limit is 0.3 psig (from Ford), the upgrade to 1 inch seemed like a "no brainer".

 

Mark - When you say that adjusting for temperature will create a %50 increase in flow is this due to the fact that warmer temp vapor/air will flow with less resistance? I take it to mean that as the blow by gases heat up with the engine, the effective CFM increases, correct?

With a few PVC style 90 degree elbows and/or connectors that probably takes the inside diameter in those locations to around 3/4 inch or so but still does not eliminate the advantage of the majority 1 inch hose length. If I understand the logic correctly that is.

 

I'm sorry if this is more than you wanted, but .................

When doing vapor pressure drop calculations, the pressure drop calculation MUST be based on the ACTUAL cubic feet per minute of the specific gas that is flowing (so that the gas velocity is accurate).

The 10 SCFM quoted as blowby for a well used 6.0L engine is a value presented as STANDARD CFM. This is expressed at a common temperature reference point (and a common pressure point also - ie atmospheric pressure). It is done this way so that the scientific community always knows how to adjust the numbers for their specific application.

The standard temperature reference point is most commonly 60 degrees F (and 14.73 lbs/square inch absolute - atmospheric pressure).

Since the engine runs at 220 to 230 degrees F oil temperature, the mass contained in a standard cubic foot will be less dense and will take up more volume. This increased volume is called the ACTUAL cubic feet. Since the volume increases at higher temperature, then the velocity of the gas will increase also as it flows. It increases as a direct relationship to the temperatures (adjusted to absolute temperature ie degrees Rankine, not Farenheit).

To convert *F to *R, ..... add 459 to the *F.

The relationship becomes: (459+230) / (459+60) = 1.33

So the temperature adjustment is actually 33% (or SCFM multiplied by 1.33).

Therefore, do the pressure drop calculation at 13.3 CFM, not 10 SCFM.

(I was conservative when I estimated 50% increase).

A couple of elbows necking down to a 3/4 inch ID will probably have the same effect as "doubling" the length of your 1 inch hose. It is hard to say what the filter would take - unless Racor (or whomever) actually publishes this specification. I would assume a saturated filter would take AT LEAST a few tenths of a psi pressure drop.

 

Yes, it does now make sense the reasoning behind using the higher number in the calculation. Thanks for the detailed write up!

 

Would not use anything but.

 

Moyock - Can you let me know the name/specs/manufacturer of that diesel oil or fuel rated hose you used and where you got it? Have you found that heater hose is short lived? The only hose I am finding locally is standard heater hose or clear vinyl PVC hose. I know proper rated diesel fuel/oil hose can get expensive buy I would rather run it once if standard heater hose or clear PVC hose is short lived in this application.

 

Cav...I picked it up at a local Hose and Rubber company here in Chesapeake VA...B&B Hose and Rubber, 4604 Bainbridge Blvd, Chesapeake, VA 23320 (PH 757-545-6166) The hose is Red GST II (not sure what that stands for)...it was $2.39 per foot Part Number 7094-100200...I bought 10 ft of that 1"ID, 10 ft of black Multipurpose 1"ID, 1 ft of Red GST II 1.25"ID Hope this helps.

 

Thanks Moyock. Very helpful. Just found the specs on that hose here:
Air-Water-Oil Hose