I think the assumption is that anyone that installed a filter is returning the vent to the turbo inlet.

One thing I have read about is that some folks are concerned that moisture and maybe some dust can get into your crankcase with the vent open to the atmosphere with no filter on it. I realize that most of the time the crankcase will have some very slight pressure, but when you shut it down and it cools off, some of the vapors WILL flow back into the crankcase.

 

The other reason for routing back to the Intake (at least for me) is that next year Calif is scheduled to begin smog checks on Diesel. It will be visual only, but one of the items to check is the CCV. It will be somewhat dependent on the inspector but at least with it routed back to intake, it is following the original design concept (improved) and should be accepted. If it is routed to open air, I have been told it will fail outright. It does not matter that other engines (like Dodge) do this, the Ford was designed with the CCV to intake so that is what they will be looking for. Time will tell how critical the inspectors will be..

 

EZ ford, makes sense to me. (its a "Goracal" issue)
Bizmic, I agree with what you are saying but do you think that the contraction would be greater than the volume of the hose? Also, venting to air is not new at all, back in the day, (before PCV valves) all cars were vented to air. As I stated, my dodge 12 valve is vented to air from the factory.

 

Are you sure that will work for these trucks? The specs say Maximum temperature is 125°F; which is quite a bit below the exhaust, coolant and oil temperatures. I bring this up because I'm thinking the vapors out of the crankcase would be some where around 150°F. The max psi is listed at 150 which is ok by my guess-ta-mating; I figure if you blow the strainer apart...you've got bigger problems than just a trashed strainer. Don't get me wrong, I'd like to fix the whole problem/issue. Just thinking out loud that those T-strainers may not be up to the task with the engine heat.

 

Some return to the intake, others vent to atmosphere. I do not care about a little drip. What would be wrong with a simple hose going all the way back to the rear axle? Should be long enough to prevent dust and moisture from being sucked back up? my Cummins is vented straight down under the engine and spews vapor constantly.

 

zhilton - The max temp of 125 F. is at the device's max pressure of 150 PSI. I spoke with the company regarding that. The max temp limit is much higher given the extremely low PSI created by our gas vapor flow application. So, 125 F is the maximum temperature of the unit should your application pressurize it to 150 PSI. In addition, I am installing the 1 inch outlet larger unit and I am using 1 inch hose all the way around for additional flow with even lower circulation pressure.

 

Check out the Albums tab above...I just loaded a few images from my CCV filter setup.

 

Nice clean installation. That Racor 6000 is hugh and I am sure it can handle way more blowby than a 7.3 puts out. Can you let me know what material the canister is made out of and what the filter element is? Have you been running it for a while to see what kind of oil vapor quantities it collects every couple thousand miles? I read that the 6000 unit you have flows 20 CFM which is around double what is required for a 7.3L engine but having more than enough capacity is definately never a problem.

 

Yes...it is huge...definately overkill...but the price was right. I've been running it for approx 8 months...I can see (and smell) the evaporative oil collected on the filter media. Not as much that it has collected on the bottom of the canister...just aborbed into the filter itself. The filter is similar to our HFCM fuel filter (with the outer membrance screen) only on steroids. Replacement cost will probably be somewhere in the neighborhood of $40...but it will take a few years before it will ever need changed...based on the CFM rate of our motors. The canister itself is made from high temp/high impact resistance PVC. I'm happy I have it from what I see on the filter...I'd rather it be there than in my intake and Turbo....lol.

 

Do you have any pictures that show your under the hood hose routing? It would be helpful to see that as well. I am doing the install on a 2000 F-350 7.3L but your install might give me some ideas for routing options.

 

Cav...check out the album again under the albums tab above (page 3 at present time)...see on pics 2 and 3...the red hose id the ccv exhaust hose that comes off the ccv elbow on the valve cover...it gets turned outward and routes down under the bulkhead back to the filter on the rail...the black hose comes from the filter on the rail back up under the bulkhead and connects to the air intake assemblt inlet nozzle where the hose used to go directly from the cc. The red hose is a petroleum resistant hose material and is meant to handle fuels and lubes.

 

Ok, I saw them there this time, thx. Any reason you chose not to do the typical turning of the dog house 180 and run the red hose up and over the master cylinder booster and down that direction? I believe I heard someone mention is takes some of the oil vapor immediately back into the crankcase before the gas routes over the top of the arc? Not sure myself if there is any advantage there. Doing it your way, you don't need to flip the dog house and change it around which is nice. I am going to use 1 inch hose for out and return lines but I am not sure if it will be too tight of a fit through the gap on the outside of the framerail between the location where the frame comes near the inner fender well corner. If I route both hoses to the inside of the framerail and mount my canister there, there is tons of room to run both 1 inch diameter hoses through. However, the hoses will be 8 or 9 inches from the exhaust manifold which I do think should be far enough away. Any reason you decided to mount on the outside rather than on the inside of the driver side frame rail? One other member previously mentioned that the clear reinforced vinyl tubing works great as the vinyl tubing is apparently highly resistant to chemical and oils. Any thoughts there? I can pick it up and a local Home Depot for around $1.50 a foot. I see so many people using common 3/4 inch heater hose which degrades rapidly in the presence of oil and it can become soft and spongy. Thanks for your feedback and help.

 

I just drained my BD CCV mod canister for the first time today while doing an oil change. I drained just over a 1/2 cup of oil from the BD canister over 4985 miles! I could not be happier with the mod.

 

cav...just added another pic to the album...check out where they come from out from under the engine compt. The hoses will allighn on top of one another and tuck between the whell well trim...they fit, trust me. I actually didn't think about rotating the doghouse...but I can see how I would prefer my method over that any way. The pressurized vapor will travel upward (as it always did, then turns down to the hose)...It seems to work fine as I have it. I chose the outside of the rail for easy access, plus by filter housing mounting bracket holes lined up perfectly with factory holes already in the rail. I picked up my hose from a local specialty shop..(can find one pretty much anywhere)...I think I paid somewhere at about $3-4 per foot....As long as you're using hose material that is suitable for carrying pretoleum gases/fluids/liquids...you're fine.

 

I concur, the hoses do fit there rather nicely> I used black 1" hose from Lowes to make my run. 2.62 per foot. They also had the clamps and adapter(s) necessary. easy to do thanks to everyones input!