Hey guys, got another problem. I had the break line bust behind the side gas tank on my 78 f-250 about a month ago. I finally fixed it and now I have twisted off the bleeder screw on the back drum on passenger side. Now I am going to be honest and say I have never been into drum brakes. So I heated up what was left of the bleeder and decided to put vice grips on it. This didn't work couldn't spin vice grips to tight of an area, so I gave that up and decided to take apart the rear I pulled out the axle and noticed that someone borrowed my axlenut socket and didn't return it so I quit. Now is there an easier way than where I am going here I was planning on taking everything apart and set the drum on a bench so I could get to the bleeder with vice grips or weld a nut too it. Anyway, can I just take those two bolts out next too the bleeder and i would be in business. My buddy is working on a 79 F-150 and has my Chilton so that is why I am posting on here. Thanks as always in advance.

 

If you're into it that far why not just buy a new wheel cylinder, they're only about 10 bucks.

 

I really ain't in very far, I have never replaced a wheel cyl give me a hint here. I like too make them go just having bad luck right now making her stop.

 

The wheel cylinder is the part that your bleeder screw is screwed into.

 

Yes I realize that, do I have to continue pulling the axlenut, wheelbearings and hub off to replace the wheel cyl or can i just pull it off from the back. I am telling you i am lost never been in one only messed with disc brakes.

 

You unbolt the wheel cylinder from the back, just remove your wheel and brake drum to access it, no need to pull the axle.

 

Huh I didn't think the drum would come off without pulling the 7 or 8 bolts that hold on the axle, I will put that back in and try to get the drum off , but really I don't see how it would come off without pulling off the spindle nut and wheel bearing. I will look at it tomorrow night thanks

 

It really isn't that bad pulling of the drum. The chilton or haynes manual will walk you right through it. But you do need to remove the drum in order to replace the wheel cylinder. The F250s, you have to remove the axle in order to access the spindle nut, locking ring and inside spindle nut and bearing. The hubs come off relatively easy. Once the axle is out, bend back the tabs of the locking ring with a screw driver and hammer, then unscrew the outside spindle nut, pull out the lock ring, unscrew the inside spindle nut and then the hub is ready to pull off. You may have to adjust the brakes in so the hub comes off easily. Once the hub gets loose the outside wheel bearing with fall right out. You don't need to mess with wheel seal or inside bearing, but since it's off, you should just replace the wheel seal and take out the inside bearing to clean up, check out and re-grease. Then the wheel cylinders are easy to replace. Once you are ready to put the drum back on, put a thin layer of black tape over the threads of the spindle and a bit of grease on the spindle and slide the hub on, slide the bearing in and then the inside spindle nut. Tighten the inside nut as you are spinning the tire and snug it up pretty good to seat the bearing and then back off the nut about a 1/4 turn. Then slide the locking ring on and then the outside nut and snug it up. I can't remember the torque specs on the outside spindle nut right now. But the wheel should turn fairly easy once everything is tightened up. Then bend the tabs on the locking ring, put the axle back in and there ya go.

 

You're right, i misread your post and was thinking of the F150 you mentioned, sorry about the confusion.

 

Thanks guys should be no problem, I just have to find my 2 9/16th spindle nut socket. Thanks again should be pretty simple with your explanation.