Update on "tainted white", my 01 F150 4WD extXLT.

Previous user (hate to sully title of "Owner") drove it 2 or three years with gasket blown out on number 4. Hack had tried to tighten studs-and snapped off 3 of them flush with manifold. I used a week of baptizing all nuts and studs with PBX, DeepCreep and ZEP penetrants before tackling after inner fender liner removal. Was able to quite easily back out nuts with studs, and one nut off its stud. Cut the manifold down header pipe studs off and removed the manifold yesterday, and continued to spray 3 broken studs and the one intact one, rapped on them with hammer and punch a few dozen times each, and tried large vise grips. Suckers were tight, no budge, studs began to get chewed with vise grip jaws. Called friend with torch, searched for anle drill, die grinder, reverse drill bits, and dragged out the mig, but decided to spray one more time. Also knocked the studs-a little more vigorously-with 2 lb mini-sledge. Twisted an extra 16th tighter on vice grips, and rapped directly on the vice grips, alternating between loosen/tighten. It moved-almost imperceptibly. Sprayed more, prayed it'd jump out-and wiggled some more. 10 minutes of spray and wiggle, each stud successively came out. No drill, torch, or tap was harmed in the procedure!

Examined the manifold, used a DA sander to clean em' up, sprayed Copper Gasket spray (made for turbos and gasketless heads and manifolds) on both sides of gasket and the manifold.

When I wire-brushed the head, found casting seam flaws, corrosion, and erosion on the surface. Now, before I just slap new gaskets and studs in there...what sort of tool can fit in there and clean up the surface, retaining planar level and avoiding surface fluctuations? Tried by hand with a sandin block and 120 emery cloth-going to take a vat of elbow grease and a month of sundays all week.

My DA won't fit, a flapper wheel does, but will surely not be level smooth or planar. An inline body file might-how about a detail sander (small right-angle triangular head). Am not gonna pull the engine. Anyone else have any suggestions.

 

I have no idea how an aluminum head could have a surface taken down across such a long area, and keep it in-plane to tight tolerances. Other than for the head to be removed and a milling machine used at a machine shop.

Maybe somebody else has an idea, I sure don't.

 

I believe the detail sander i used did sufficient job. An exhaust manifold is not under intense pressure, and with the type of gasket used the nuts and studs should keep it sealed. I used copper spray to add a little extra insurance. Will report when completed.

 

Exhaust leak repaired! Truck has not sounded this good in years!
Perhaps now I can do something about the codes, and get some power and mileage back. One code says rear axle vacuum ... what is that?
Is the entire drivetrain vented into the engine, or ust the rear axle? Seems to me that maintaining a vacuum in the axle could draw in water and dirt...

 

Exhaust leak repaired! Truck has not sounded this good in years!
Perhaps now I can do something about the codes, and get some power and mileage back. One code says rear axle vacuum ... what is that?
Is the entire drivetrain vented into the engine, or ust the rear axle? Seems to me that maintaining a vacuum in the axle could draw in water and dirt...

 

What is the fault code Timo2?

 

the axle vents to atmosphere. There is no code for "axle vent".

 

Unfortunately before print of read out, Azone dude cleared them. There were six codes, off which two were misfiring cylinders and one lean condition both banks.

Steve, prior to that there was a code which translated to something about axle vacuum. This perhaps pertains to 4WD system-which BTW functions well. Perhaps in the past it stored some obscure fault?

 

Timo2: just took my F150 99 with 212000 miles in to find out passenger side exhaust manifold leaking on front bolt which rusted away. I read your post and am thinking about doing this along with a new powersteering pump and new stabilizer. The parts aren't bad as far as pricing, however, if something goes wrong and I don't have a welder/torch, I send it to the shop. I am having a local mechanic quote labor. If I knew I could bang a few knuckles like you did I might tackle this. Wife needs truck for kids and her expeditions to tree farms every freaking spring.