Hello All,

Latest saga - truck started vibrating and pulling to the left. So I parked it and didn't drive her for a few days. Drove her 3 miles to my parents house and jacked her up. I researched the forum prior to and was prepared to find either sticking slide pins or a bad hub bearing. Pulling on the top and bottom of each wheel resulted in no play. So I assume the hub bearings are fine. Plus I found no grease on the plate or anywhere on the assembly as shown in Guzzle's pictures.
Drivers side wheel spins free. Passenger side is binding.
Took apart the passenger side. Had a heck of time trying to get the caliper off of the rotor. Pad has about 1/4" of pad remaining. Slide pins had lube but one was drier than the other. Since I had no silcone caliper lubricant nor have I ever seen it, I decided that I would compress the caliper pistons in to save a little time tomorrow after I get the lube. I used my old big C Clamp with a twist screw (big wing nut) and an old brake pad and tried to compress both pistons at the same time. No dice. I could not move the pistons much. Thinking that this truck is bigger and heavier duty than anything I worked on previously and that I am older and weaker than I used to be, I tried compressing the pistons with a huge pair of channel locks. No real movement. I tried this with the bleeder opened too. I got good brake fluid out of the bleeder but the pistons never retracted all of the way in so they are flush with the caliper. I tired doing one piston at a time and although I got some movement, they are still not flush with the caliper body. So now I think I need to replace the caliper but not 100% sure after searching the forum again.
Here is why: Rear brake line burst and was repaired in February by the trans shop. Last month, driver's side front line from the master cylinder to the driver's side front brake hose was leaking and replaced. Both front caliper bleeders were also replaced as they were rusted and clogged. With all of this being done, I guess it is possible that some debris found it's way to the passenger side front caliper. But I want to make sure that I do not have a bad (collapsed) brake hose before I replace the caliper. Since I got fluid out of the bleeder while trying to compress the pistons with little to no movement, would you all agree that the caliper is sticking or is there a sure fire way to test the hose? Money is tight and I am thinking about popping the pistons out with air, cleaning the caliper out with brake clean and putting it back together will the same seals. I figure if I have to spend the money on a rebuilt caliper I have nothing to loose but I don't want to jeopardize my safety or others by not replacing the caliper seals if it is mandatory.
Do rebuilt calipers come with new slide pins? What is the caliper pin lube called, who makes it and where can I buy it?
I am tempted to service the needle bearings while I am here but it might be more than I can handle. Looks like lining us the knuckle could require a lot of effort. Plus I see no evidence of grease leaking or seeping.

Thanks...

Neil

 

Neil, no question, you have at least a problem with that caliper. With the bleeder open you should be able to almost work the piston back with hand pressure. Having to replace that thing anyway, I'd tear straight into it with out a thought, then make a decision on whether you can salvage it. I've been successful at times.

I'd bet when you R&R the pistons your going to find either swollen O-rings (no longer serviceable) or/and RUST! If it's only rust and your O-rings are not swollen or nicked, you can reuse them. PB Blaster and some 0000 steel wool on the pistons and cylinder walls, you may be able to refurbish them.

Probably with all the "service" that has been done to the system, you "ingested" moisture and that has come to roost on your steel components. After the work is done, if you in fact find rust, I'd re-flush and bleed the system, going with a syn fluid that is less susceptible to water absorption.

 

Well it be evident that the o rings are swollen? What will I use PB Blaster on? The pistons are phenolic (plastic) not steel. I wonder how caliper rebuild kits cost? I couldn't find them online at AutoZone, Pepboys or Advance. Pepboys has rebuild calipers for $60.00 but I can't imagine what rebuilding them would do other than repalcing the seals and o rings.

 

Yep, you'll see that the seals are swollen when you remove the piston, they'll pop out and will never go back in . Obviously the clearances are tight so they don't have to swell much. What year is your turck? I thought they switched back to steel pistons back in 00' something. Mine's a E99, and had those plastic fiscal wonders, 3 sets of calipers later, and now w/STEEL pistons... I'm good. If you have those pistons, I'd just replace them. Wouldn't waste anytime on them, but that's just me and I'm a little pissy about those because of the problems I had with mine.

You can use the PB on the plastic too, it'll get any surface imperfections off too. Just make sure to clean WELL with brake cleaner. Any "oil" in a brake system is a "fail." Oh and on the slide pin lube, NAPA has a good synthetic high temp brake grease that I've used for years. Your slide pins should be "gooey" wet with grease. Anything else, and you need to clean and repack. Inspect the boots good because leaks there will net you the same results in short order. RockAuto sells pin kits and probably had "rebuild" kits too, although for brake stuff I lean toward OE (Ed is your guy)

 

SylGlyde or Sylglide. Some spelling like that. Stuff is awesome but the slippery feel is almost impossible to get off your hands. haha

 

I found and bought the Permatex Silcone Brake Lube. I also found a reman caliper if I need it but could not find a rebuild kit. I was going to do the passenger side only but the reman has steel pistons and I know my passenger side (the one I am having problems with) has the phenolic (plastic) piston. I am unsure what the driver side has but I am assuming it is the original phenolic. I know that calipers are supposed to be replaced in pairs but money is tight. Will having steel pistons on one side and phenolic make a difference?

Thanks...

 

You will prolly feel a difference. Save your pennies and get the other one replaced ASAP so you have equal and correct braking.