My 6 cylinder has 80,000 miles and does not have much power. When I drive up my driveway, which is about a 10% grade, it shakes quite a bit.

A compression test showed 90 PSI in two cylinders, 80 PSI in one, 70 PSI in two and 60 PSI in one. When I squirted oil in the pressure went up about 10 PSI. The spec. is 120 PSI.

On days I drive the truck the engine oil leaks from the rear seal (about a cup a day).

The engine needs to be replaced or re-built. Which is less expensive?

If I replace the engine I want to keep the 3 speed manual or replace it with another manual trans. I don't need a very powerful engine. If I could just get the power this engine had when I began to drive it 30 years ago it would be fine.
The engine was spec'd at 115 BHP and 198 ft. lb. torque.

I don't think I can do the re-build or replacement myself because I don't have an engine lift. Would it pay to buy one? I do have a garage where I could work on the engine. The truck would have to sit outside while rebuilding.

Does anyone have total cost estimates?

 

Rebuilding can get expensive fast. Here is a link for rebuild kit for the 223
http://www.rpmmachine.com/shop/index...t_detail&p=800
Then you have to add in the machine shop cost. Engine lift can be rented or buy an inexpensive one from Harbor Freight.
You may be able to find an engine already rebuilt for your truck. Here is an example although this one is a long way from you.
http://reno.craigslist.org/pts/1325174666.html
I think that at one time someone on this forum had one for sale.

 

Mike
I am finishing a 223 rebuild for my 54. Machine shop work costs were about $1500 . Bored cylinders, welded/machined main bearing caps, align bored mains, grind crankshaft, asembled new pistons on rods, balanced everything, installed freeze plugs & cam bearings, surfaced the head & block, surfaced the flywheel. I bought the master engine rebuild kit from RPM Machine, $690. Also purchased a new cam from Green Sales $165. Lots of misc stuff Carb kit, rebuilt distributor, plug wires,fuel pump. Over all it is a lot of money but I spread it out over a long time, Hopefully it will run well when done and most importantly, I am having fun. Bob

 

Thank you.
So it sounds like about $2,500.
Did you pull out the engine yourself and send it to a shop or did someone else pull it out and put it back in?
Did you stay 6 volt or change to 12 volt?

 

If you let the shop buy Badger pistons, Hastings rings, Michigan bearings, and similar cam and lifters, you can shave quite a bit off those prices. Never had an issue in a street motor with those parts.

My '53 with 223 was a good runner with a worn stock engine, threw a rod though while on a trip. I got a reman crank, an oil pump, one new rod, and one new piston with rings from JCWhitney (nearby and I was in school on a tight budget). Threw them in and it ran like a champ for another couple years. In other words, don't go overboard with stuff like line-boring and torque-plate honing on a street-driven truck. I'd be surprised if you need a new cam and lifters. Fix what's broken and stop!

 

I agree, I just want to get some of the original power back.
Could I replace the piston rings without removing the engine?
Will removing the head and oil pan allow me to get the pistons out?

 

Replacing the main bearings can be done like you describe, but it's tough to do and the seals are near impossible. Piston rings are easy if you're not going to bore. Half the benefit of a rebuild IMO is getting all the accumulated junk out of the cooling passages, oil passages, etc which can only be done by vatting the block. This is especially true if the engine hasn't been open and cleaned out since the days of leaded fuel and non-detergent oil. It is nasty and toxic, and the primary cause of sludge. Once you get it open, you'll be able to judge if it needs it.

PS -- even a cheapo rebuild should include a new oil pump

 

Mike I bought my 54 from a guy who had started to restore it. Motor was out and in pieces. The cylinders were tapered beyond tollerance and had to be trued up. For me the truck is a long term restoration project. Not enough time or money to go faster. My goal is to be close to done when I retire in 6 years. I will put it back in the truck when ready. My dad has one of those engine lifts on castors. The extent to which you fix yours is a choice based on what you want in the end. I understand these are rugged old forgiving motors. Good luck. Bob

 

How do I know if I have to bore the cylinders?
After I remove the ridge with a ridge reamer do I measure the diameter and buy oversize rings or are oversize rings only used after boreing out cylinders?
I've removed the oil pan and there was not much sludge. I already replaced the oil pump.
I drive the truck less than 1000 miles per year (only in the summer) I'm only trying to get a little power pack.
I've been using unleaded since 1977. That was about 40,000 miles ago.

 

Buy a book. Machine shops use inside micrometers OR……… push a new ring into the cylinder and measure the ring gap. Just remove enough of the piston ring ridge with a ridge remover to get the piston out. Other then a full mega buck overhaul and as a semi-temp repair considering your usage I would just do a re-ring job in the truck, leave the main bearings, they USUALLY don’t wear much, deglaze (hone) slightly the cylinders and install new cast piston rings (no moly or chrome) the cast (0-.010) will seat fast and tolerate some taper/out of round, new con rod bearings and driver like you stole her.

As a rule, Yes.

 

I think think the 223 is a fine engine. I would blueprint that sucker and enjoy many miles of driving. Maybe a 390 CFM 4 bbl and a header.

 

So how do you throw a 4-Barrel anything on a 223 I-6? Let alone a header? Who makes a 4-BBL Carb and who makes a Header for this engine?

 

Clifford has what little is available in performance manifold and headers for the 223.
http://www.cliffordperformance.net/M...gory_Code=F300

 

Ooh. That's neat stuff. Now what model and brand 4BBL carb's are available for our 223 engine?

 

Most run that 390cfm holley 4bbl. You can get it from most anyplace that sells Holley carbs. Summit, Jegs, etc. I think they are around $400.00.