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Old Sep 16, 2009 | 10:13 PM
  #46  
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good news about those hard to reach bolts ... is that because of that crack on the transmission/tc spacer I only need to unbolt 3 or 4 bolts from the tc and itll slide right out, granted I eventually get that front driveshaft off
 
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Old Sep 17, 2009 | 10:18 PM
  #47  
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so for the life of me ... there are 6 bolts in total which I cant get off for the life of me get off (4 of which are on the driveshaft which I have soaked in pb as well now ... )


and



anyone have any ideas on what I can try ? ive tried the wrench trick, ive cut off the head off one of my old wrenches and put it in a pipe, still no luck .. I cant fit an impact socket on there ...
 
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Old Sep 17, 2009 | 11:11 PM
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think if i put a heat gun to it, it would be hot enough to possibly take em off, especially on that aluminum case .... and on the front driveshaft probably a propane torch would do the trick for me no ?
 
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Old Sep 18, 2009 | 12:34 AM
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I would use the torch. Aluminum needs way more heat to get damaged than you could put on with a torch.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2009 | 09:29 AM
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think a small propane torch will do ? because that is the only option I really have at this point. I've soaked the front driveshaft with pb blaster lastnight after work and today before work ... so hopefully when i go home thatll budge .. if not not too big of a deal because, I just want this TC off ... ill worry about the rest later.

this project seems to be dragging on almost though, I only spend about 1-2hrs a night on it for the last 2 days (this is day 3) so ...
 
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Old Sep 18, 2009 | 09:36 AM
  #51  
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I don't undersand the problem to be honest. You ought to be able to break the head right off of that bolt by putting some grunt behind it. The bolt doesn't look mangled, so wrench slipping does not seem to be the issue. Just get a 6 point box end wrench on that thing, put a cheater on it, and either turn it or break the head. If it breaks you can deal with extracting the thread later.

And a propane torch will be a waste of time. If you want to use heat, you are going to need oxy/acc with a pin point tip and a carburizing flame.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2009 | 10:24 AM
  #52  
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I just really didnt want to break the head off of it to be honest, I was hoping to get away with everything going to plan.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2009 | 11:40 AM
  #53  
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chances are good that the threads will give before the bolt does... and if not, you needed a new one anyway.

You are turning them CCW, correct? (always have to make sure, sometimes things get confusing when working upside down)

Avoid that Oxy/Acy torch...it'll warp or melt that Aluminum before you know it.

I'd say just throw that pipe back on that wrench, and pull down with everything you've got, with the longest lever-arm you can... it may only break for 5 degrees at a time, but get it moving and it'll be easier.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2009 | 11:45 AM
  #54  
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rightie tightie - leftie loosie

yeah, they definately do get confusing ... If I got confused I would just insert a bolt back in, and double check.

so really at this point for me then just go the brute force method and go to town ?

doing so on the case doesnt scare me as much as doing that on the front driveshaft ...
 
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Old Sep 18, 2009 | 11:48 AM
  #55  
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On the driveshaft, a little thermal shock might be a good idea if you can avoid melting any seals...

Are the driveshaft bolts through bolts with a backing nut or are they threaded into the flange?

If nothing else just break those off and have a machine shop extract the pieces.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2009 | 12:25 PM
  #56  
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+1 Just use a little pb blaster and hit the bolt heads with a hammer as you spray if you can. Use a 6 point socket and pull until something breaks; probably the threads will break loose.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2009 | 12:39 PM
  #57  
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the bolts go into the flange. lastnight I just sprayed minus the hammer action so I think that is what im going to try tonight.

the bolt heads on the driveshaft are actually a 12mm 12point head though, so thats what I have been using ...
 
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Old Sep 18, 2009 | 01:54 PM
  #58  
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A hammer is definitely important when using PB. It vibrates what is siezed just enough to help the PB penetrate that extra thousandth of and inch. We use this method all the time on my ship, because many times a torch is not a possibility due to flammables being nearby.
Use brute force, if you break it, oh well.
Happens all the time and you will just have to replace it.
Personally, I would use PB, a hammer, AND the torch, but that's something I am very comfortable with.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2009 | 02:04 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by BigJ5656
the bolts go into the flange. lastnight I just sprayed minus the hammer action so I think that is what im going to try tonight.

the bolt heads on the driveshaft are actually a 12mm 12point head though, so thats what I have been using ...
Get a 6 point before you round anything off.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2009 | 02:12 PM
  #60  
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And once you get them out, replace them with six point bolts. Don't forget to put never seize on when you put them back together too, you never know when you'll have to yank it out again
 
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