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Here is a thought:
What if Ooftus pulled the plug wires one by one with the engine idling. If the tick goes away, the manifold gasket is leaking. If not, the problem is in the valve train. Would this work?
CougarJohn, that may or may not work. You've still got exhaust coming throught the manifold from a dead cylinder, although it's not burned gases.
All of my years as a tech tell me that the best thing to do to start is what I suggested before. A piece of heater hose held to your ear is almost as good as a stethoscope to a doctor.
That would even help identify it if it were what sandmanf250 suggested, which is a true possibility. Not only could the skirt be collapsed, the more probable cause in that case would be a cracked skirt. They behave just like what Ooftus describes, getting a little quieter as the engine warms up.
None of this really explains why the noise would be different due to ambient temperatures, though...
Well, I don't know, Ranger. If the cylinder is not firing, the air and fuel mixture that is sucked in is compressed and released, a little bit hotter because of the work the piston has done on it but certainly not under the pressure of residual compression. Engines don't bark while they are on the starter but only when they fire.
Would any of you old salts care to weigh in on my theory about pulling plug wires to separate a valve tick from a leaky gasket?
pull the pans, if it was a collapsed lifter wouldnt you have some play in the pushrod? iv never had one collaps on an fe so idk, but on my v6's i use to build, i know that when one collapsed you would have play in the pushrod.
and yes, there is such a thing as seafoam :P works really well, rether you use it in the gas tank, through the carborator, or in the oil. its an awsome product
It has been kinda warm these past couple of mornings, and the rapping has not been noticable. I am assuming that the outside temperature warms the oil enough to where it pumps up quicker ?