390 fe
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Probably won't hurt. Next step is high detergent additive. Depending on engine condition, you might start burning a little more oil, hard to day.
I loosened one up with the additive once, but it was only about a 50,000 mile engine, and there were no problems as a result.
I loosened one up with the additive once, but it was only about a 50,000 mile engine, and there were no problems as a result.
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Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2009
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From: ventura CA
The engine is relatively knew, under 20,000 mi.............SEAFOAM ? ? we've got plenty of seafom arround here but I don't think i'd want to put it in my engine, too much salt. ha ha
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Shasta Lake, Ca.
It really depends, With low mileage, ID say just a good Oil and no additives. Im My 427, I run only AmsOil 10w40. Even with my last engine ( That I exploded ) It was spotless inside. You can run a Qt more then level and be safe with these engines, Oil Cooler, and Double filter are the best way IMO, Other will disagree. But what you feel comfortable with is what counts
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Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Kernersville, NC
Are you sure the lifter is sticking?
You could possibly have some other valve train trouble.
Bent push rod, worn rocker arm, valve keeper came loose (could cause MAJOR damage), loose rocker shaft bolts are the first things that come to mind.
Oh, and one other thing. Make sure it's not the all-encompassing exhaust leak. Those sometimes sound identical to a ticking valve.
If the engine only has 20K on it, you shouldn't have a lifter giving problems...
You could possibly have some other valve train trouble.
Bent push rod, worn rocker arm, valve keeper came loose (could cause MAJOR damage), loose rocker shaft bolts are the first things that come to mind.
Oh, and one other thing. Make sure it's not the all-encompassing exhaust leak. Those sometimes sound identical to a ticking valve.
If the engine only has 20K on it, you shouldn't have a lifter giving problems...
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Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2009
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From: ventura CA
No, I'm not SURE it's a lifter. It's quite loud (tapping) when cold, mellows out upon warm up. Everything is pretty much new, rockers, valves, push rods etc. That's why I am hoping it IS a lifter. Wishful thinking perhaps.I had the rocker covers off and everything seems to be in order, nothing loose or broken that I could see anyway. I don't believe it's an exhaust leak but I will certainly investigate every SIMPLE solution before I start dismantling.
.........Thanks for the assist..............P.S. Iv'e been running 20/50 Valvoline.
.........Thanks for the assist..............P.S. Iv'e been running 20/50 Valvoline.
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Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Kernersville, NC
If it quiets down as it warms up, it's probably a 99% sure bet it's an exhaust leak.
As the metal gets warmer, it expands, closing small gaps.
Are you running headers or stock manifolds?
As the metal gets warmer, it expands, closing small gaps.
Are you running headers or stock manifolds?
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Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2009
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From: ventura CA
Now you've got me thinking. I've had exhaust leaks before, this definately
sounds 'metallic". On the other hand, I've been wrong once or twice before....
I'll check it out first thing in the am. I am running stock manifolds, had them
surfaced not long ago.
sounds 'metallic". On the other hand, I've been wrong once or twice before....
I'll check it out first thing in the am. I am running stock manifolds, had them
surfaced not long ago.
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Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Kernersville, NC
Exhaust leaks right at the head many times sound IDENTICAL to a "metallic" rocker arm/lifter click.
A really easy way to isolate the source of the sound is to take a length of heater hose and hold it to your ear. Move the other end around until you hear the noise at it's loudest point. If you determine that it's inside the valve cover, remove the cover and repeat the process. (Make sure you use clean heater hose or you'll get a dirty ear...LOL)
Another similar method (if it's actually a mechanical noise) is to use a LONGGGG screwdriver, hold it to your ear and touch the other end to the suspect area. Continue until you find the source. (Clean screwdriver, same consequences as above!!!)
A really easy way to isolate the source of the sound is to take a length of heater hose and hold it to your ear. Move the other end around until you hear the noise at it's loudest point. If you determine that it's inside the valve cover, remove the cover and repeat the process. (Make sure you use clean heater hose or you'll get a dirty ear...LOL)
Another similar method (if it's actually a mechanical noise) is to use a LONGGGG screwdriver, hold it to your ear and touch the other end to the suspect area. Continue until you find the source. (Clean screwdriver, same consequences as above!!!)
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2003
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old school fix from the 50s when oil was not to good was to drop the old oil and put in 4qts 10w30 and 1 qt kerosene. start engine and idle it for at least a half hour.drain and refill. dont rev the motor just let it idle.
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Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2009
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From: ventura CA
In my earlier post, I mentioned that the tapping mellowed out as the engine warmed up.
What I meant to say, was that the tapping mellows out once oil is pumped topside, long before the engine actually 'warms up'.
The outdoor temperature determines the 'tap factor'.
If it is chilly outside, the tapping is VERY noticable
If I start 'er up after until the sun has been out for a while, the tapping is barely
audible...........(chilly here is arround 55 degrees).
This is why I had pegged a lifter as the culprit.
.....................Sorry about any confusion.
What I meant to say, was that the tapping mellows out once oil is pumped topside, long before the engine actually 'warms up'.
The outdoor temperature determines the 'tap factor'.
If it is chilly outside, the tapping is VERY noticable
If I start 'er up after until the sun has been out for a while, the tapping is barely
audible...........(chilly here is arround 55 degrees).
This is why I had pegged a lifter as the culprit.
.....................Sorry about any confusion.