Hey guys i have a 1949 ford f1 and i was looking to change the straight axle to something more moddern if it is in the budget. Which is almost non existint. I was thinking could i get a ford ranger and use the front end of it for the suspension? And if i cant afford to do anything what should i do to improve my straight axle. Thanks

 

While you are waiting for responses check out the 11 front suspension alternatives for 1948-1960 trucks articles.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/idx/10/0/

Part one focuses on straight axles.

 

good place to start would be to go to "read first" third sticky note down (faq's) and you will see a very complete summary of the most popular IFS installs. when you have enough posts to search (i think you need a certain number to use the function) you can search for threads on updating a st. axle. everything you need is already here thanks to the old timers and short timers here. dick r

 

yea i have done that but was wondering if there was more info out there or some suggestions on what to do and not to do.

 

I am in the middle of a doing a second gen Camaro clip under my 56 F100 and so far am very happy with the results. IMHO it is a very inexpensive way to get the most bang for your buck. Disc brakes, Quick ratio power steering, sway bar etc... all for just your time and a couple of hundred bucks.

I hope this helps,
Nick

I am not finished yet, but here are a couple of pics of the conversion.

 

Looks real good. Keep posting pics

 

48-49-50 maybe more have narrower tract than 56. I'm putting a 1986 Monte Carlo in a 1950 F-1. Steering box and tie rods are in front of the xmember. Easier for exhaust and steering box
<CENTER>THINKING OF SUB FRAMES?

</CENTER><CENTER>Well here's some information to help you start out on the right foot

</CENTER><CENTER>Subframes Measurement Subframes to Avoid Basic Installation Process</CENTER>
<CENTER>Back To Topics</CENTER>

<HR width="100%">


<CENTER><TABLE border=1 width="100%" bgColor=#cccccc cols=5><CAPTION>Track Width of Popular Clip Donor Cars</CAPTION><TBODY><TR><TD><CENTER>Manufacture</CENTER></TD><TD><CENTER>Model</CENTER></TD><TD><CENTER>Years</CENTER></TD><TD><CENTER>Track Front/Rear</CENTER></TD><TD><CENTER>Curb Weight</CENTER></TD></TR><TR><TD>Chevrolet</TD><TD><CENTER>Nova</CENTER></TD><TD><CENTER>68-74</CENTER></TD><TD><CENTER>59.8-59.6</CENTER></TD><TD><CENTER>3,770</CENTER></TD></TR><TR><TD>Buick</TD><TD><CENTER>Apollo</CENTER></TD><TD><CENTER>68-74</CENTER></TD><TD><CENTER>59.1-58.8</CENTER></TD><TD><CENTER>3760</CENTER></TD></TR><TR><TD>Pontiac</TD><TD><CENTER>GTO</CENTER></TD><TD><CENTER>68-74</CENTER></TD><TD><CENTER>59.9-59.6</CENTER></TD><TD><CENTER>3880</CENTER></TD></TR><TR><TD>Chevrolet</TD><TD><CENTER>Corvette</CENTER></TD><TD><CENTER>68-83</CENTER></TD><TD><CENTER>58.7-59.5</CENTER></TD><TD><CENTER>3655</CENTER></TD></TR><TR><TD><CENTER> </CENTER></TD><TD><CENTER> </CENTER></TD><TD><CENTER>84-95</CENTER></TD><TD><CENTER>59.6-60.4</CENTER></TD><TD><CENTER>3890</CENTER></TD></TR><TR><TD>Chevrolet </TD><TD><CENTER>Camaro (Z28)</CENTER></TD><TD><CENTER>76-80</CENTER></TD><TD><CENTER>61.3-60.5</CENTER></TD><TD><CENTER>3820</CENTER></TD></TR><TR><TD>Pontiac</TD><TD><CENTER>Firebird (TA)</CENTER></TD><TD><CENTER>76-80</CENTER></TD><TD><CENTER>61.3-60.5</CENTER></TD><TD><CENTER>3900</CENTER></TD></TR><TR><TD>Ford</TD><TD><CENTER>Mustang II</CENTER></TD><TD><CENTER>74-79</CENTER></TD><TD><CENTER>55.6-55.8</CENTER></TD><TD><CENTER>3305</CENTER></TD></TR><TR><TD></TD><TD><CENTER>Pinto</CENTER></TD><TD><CENTER>74-79</CENTER></TD><TD><CENTER>55.6-55.8</CENTER></TD><TD><CENTER>3305</CENTER></TD></TR><TR><TD>Mercury</TD><TD><CENTER>Capri</CENTER></TD><TD><CENTER>74-79</CENTER></TD><TD><CENTER>55.6-55.8</CENTER></TD><TD><CENTER>3305</CENTER></TD></TR><TR><TD><CENTER> </CENTER></TD><TD><CENTER>Bobcat</CENTER></TD><TD><CENTER>74-79</CENTER></TD><TD><CENTER>55.6-55.8</CENTER></TD><TD><CENTER>3305</CENTER></TD></TR><TR><TD>Chevrolet</TD><TD><CENTER>Monte Carlo</CENTER></TD><TD><CENTER>78-86</CENTER></TD><TD><CENTER>58.5-58.8</CENTER></TD><TD><CENTER>3235</CENTER></TD></TR><TR><TD>Buick</TD><TD><CENTER>Century</CENTER></TD><TD><CENTER>78-86</CENTER></TD><TD><CENTER>59.0-58.8</CENTER></TD><TD><CENTER>3700</CENTER></TD></TR><TR><TD>Pontiac</TD><TD><CENTER>Grand Prix</CENTER></TD><TD><CENTER>78-86</CENTER></TD><TD><CENTER>58.9-59.0</CENTER></TD><TD><CENTER>3735</CENTER></TD></TR><TR><TD>Plymouth</TD><TD><CENTER>Volare</CENTER></TD><TD><CENTER>75-79</CENTER></TD><TD><CENTER>61.0-60.5</CENTER></TD><TD><CENTER>3395</CENTER></TD></TR><TR><TD>Dodge</TD><TD><CENTER>Aspen </CENTER></TD><TD><CENTER>75-79</CENTER></TD><TD><CENTER>61.0-60.5</CENTER></TD><TD><CENTER>3395</CENTER></TD></TR><TR><TD>Dodge</TD><TD><CENTER>Dart</CENTER></TD><TD><CENTER>76</CENTER></TD><TD><CENTER>59.2-55.6</CENTER></TD><TD><CENTER>3600</CENTER></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></CENTER>Table taken from "How to Build a Custom Classic Truck" Peterson Publication; June or July 1999
Written by: Don Emmons & Mike Briggs
<CENTER>Back to Top</CENTER><HR width="100%">Sub frames To Avoid:

I recommend that you avoid all rear steer units just because:

a) it's so much more difficult and expensive to connect the steering box to column
b) the clearances for headers is reduced
I would actually select a sub frame like the 78-86 Monte Carlo which has a narrower width then the Camaro's and will provide more tire to fender clearance.
It's kind of tricky creating a radiator support brace but it can be done.
<CENTER>Back to Top</CENTER><HR width="100%">


Steps to follow before sub frame enters the picture:
1. Remove the front end as an assembly.
2. Measure original spindle centerline and mark this as a horizontal line on the frame.
3. Remove the engine and transmission.
4. Make sure the frame is level front to rear and side to side
5.Weld a horizontal bar across the top and bottom of the frame just in front of the cab to:
a) maintain the frame width
b) provides a point to take reference measurements
6. You need to take the following measurements from the horizontal bar:
a) axle centerline mark
b) end of frame horns
c) radiator support cross member holes
7. You also need to take height measurement from the ground to the:
a) top of frame horns
b) top of radiator support
To simplify some of the installation process I make a jig "to locate the exact position of the radiator cross member holes, end of frame horn and it's height and width". This is accomplished by welding a bolt to the horizontal reference bar, drilling a hole in a another bar that slides over the bolt and leans forward with flat stock welded to it with holes drilled to locate the radiator support holes and another piece of flat stock that locates the end of the frame horns at the proper height.
Before you discard the original front frame you'll need to weld a bar across the front frame horns to maintain their width and then cut that section off. This section will be re-welded to the new clip to allow installation of the original bumper brackets.
Preparing Sub Frame:
1. I remove the shocks and install an all thread rod and crank the rod down until the lower a-arm is horizontal to the floor and simulates ride height.
2. I like to install the rims and tires that will be used on the truck also.
3. Mark the axle center line on the donor sub frame.
<CENTER>"IT'S NOT THE SHOCK ABSORBER HOLE.....IT'S IN FRONT OF THAT POINT"</CENTER>Time for some Cutting:

I can't provide you with an exact point to cut the frame off at because I normally just cut the frame off somewhere around 8-9 inches in front of the cab mounting brace. I then roll the sub frame under the truck and locate the axle centerline point and trim the frame to clear the sub frames lower control arm and trim the sub frame to mate up with the trucks frame.
Their are several ways you can mate the two sections together. I'll give some examples:
1. Bend the Trucks frame outward to allow the sub frame to slide into the trucks frame.
2. Notch the sub frame so part of the sub frame slides into the trucks frame and part slides to the outside.
3. Slide the sub frame back under the trucks frame and bring it up under the trucks frame until it touches the bottom and weld it.
4. You would then make boxing plates to strengthen the area.
BEFORE YOU DO ANY WELDING YOU NEED TO:
1. Locate the correct axle centerline.
2. Measure in a cross hatch pattern from one side of the frame by the horizontal bar to the opposite side of the frames front and from the opposite frame horn to the other side of the horizontal bar "kind of like an X pattern" until both measurements are the same. This ensures your sub frame is going to be straight.
Remember that whatever sub frame you install it's going to be wider that the trucks original width and you will need off set rims to reduce the possibility of the tires rubbing on the fenders.
I help to reduce this possibility by taking about 1" off the width of the cross member and the center link to reduce the frame width.
If your still unsure of the installation, I believe that Fat Man Fabrication sells patterns to help with the installation.

Fat Man Fabrication (704) 545 - 0369

<CENTER></CENTER>If your looking for an even easier installation method, No Limit Engineering sells a video documenting the installation of a 1974-81 Camaro Clip into the 1955-59 Chevy trucks. The video will basically show you what is required to perform a similar graft for the AD's. ust and steering linkage. here is a old list. read below graph also.

 

Thanks. Here are some of the rearend. I went with a Camaro rearend out of the same donor car.












I want to just mock everything up first and then I plan to pull the cab off the frame so I can box the frame and blast, rebuild all the suspension parts and paint the chassis before the cab goes back on.

 

check out myt bg trk and a couple others on here { i got yer alias rght didna i ???? } they used readily available 93-97 tbird independent front and rear suspensions in their rides all bonus builts too like yours . i picked up a 95 tbird as a beater a couple ago with a 4.6 in it that runs and functioning a/c for 200 bucks . so another idea eh ? heres a pic of myt's i sniped to print off for a buddy with a 50 { not you tim , but jay ! } to give him some brain farts as i got a 93 bird parts car that was given to me free ............... oh and a pic of the 200 dollar bird of mine . let your mind roam free , and yes guys i put tires on it , the bird , after the burnout pics i posted i kinda wasted the rear skins ...................Attachment 17074

Attachment 17075

 

Check out my gallery for fitting a Jaguar xj-6 IFS. IMHO the easiest IFS to install in the 48-52 chassis. A number of us have done it.