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Broken sending unit, what is it called??

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Old Aug 13, 2009 | 09:35 PM
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Unhappy Broken sending unit, what is it called??

While trying to remove the turbocharger from my 2001 7.3, I got carried away and broke off a sending unit. It is located on the front of the cast boss that the turbo bolts to and supplies the oil to the turbo bearings. Can someone tell me what to ask for when I go to get a new one? Or better yet, a part number. THANKS.
 
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Old Aug 13, 2009 | 09:45 PM
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That is for the EBPV Mine is disconnected because I deleted the valve due to leaking oil.
 
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Old Aug 13, 2009 | 09:54 PM
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Question Do I need it?

Will the truck care if it is not working?
 
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Old Aug 13, 2009 | 09:55 PM
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No but it will set a soft code and the EBPV will not work for you
 
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Old Aug 13, 2009 | 10:02 PM
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I read another post where it was suggested that the valve shaft and flapper be welded open. I know in colder weather I can be 5 miles into my drive to work and still hear that hissing out my exhaust pipe. It would not break my heart to eliminate that thing completely!!
 
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Old Aug 13, 2009 | 10:04 PM
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I just got the turbo off and have not started to install the fresh one with the good wheel.
 
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Old Aug 13, 2009 | 10:10 PM
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I'd get one of these from who ever you choose and be done with it. http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?...ROD&ProdID=237
 
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Old Aug 13, 2009 | 10:13 PM
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My flapper is welded open. Some have ground of the rivits for the flapper also
 
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Old Aug 13, 2009 | 11:20 PM
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Found one on Ebay and Internet

Ron's Turbo Service in Salt Lake City offers a non EBPV turbo pedestal and the undrilled exhaust housing for $170. Seems like the way to make sure oil supply is not messed up. Black Widow Diesel has a plug for $41.45. This cheater plug which will stop the codes, when plugged onto the wire where the sending unit should be.
 
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Old Aug 13, 2009 | 11:32 PM
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I believe a non-EBPV pedestal from Clay at Riffraff Diesel Performance is $109, but don't quote me on that. Except I believe he will have to PM you as sponsors aren't allowed to post pricing. Fortunately for me I'm no sponsor.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2009 | 11:44 PM
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I super glued the sending unit back together, drilled out the rivets in the butterfly for the back pressure valve, welded the shaft from turning and put it back together. No codes and seems to run pretty good with the new wheel. I did not feel the same surging, so maybe the fresh turbo, with the good compressor wheel did the trick?
 
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Old Aug 17, 2009 | 08:42 AM
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Sounds like you fixed it. Did you gut the pedestal too? You can pull the shaft completely out of the stock housing and plug the hole with a 3/4" freeze plug (just like the one that's in the bottom). Then, you can remove the junk from the pedestal and drill & tap the hole where the EBPV actuator comes out. Sort of a poor man's non-EBVP pedestal & high-flow outlet. Should look something like this :


Here you can see the plug put into the pedestal. It's an easy mod -- you don't even have to drill the hole. It's already the correct size for tapping a 1/4" NPT plug.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2009 | 09:35 AM
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Joe,
Thanks for the tip. I already ordered a blank pedestal for $115. I think the oil leak I have been seeing is from the plunger in the pedestal. The valley of the motor is very nasty. Now that everything is back together and running pretty well, I can get after it with a pressure washer and some Gunk and maybe be able to find that leak.
 
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