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1989 b2 wont start

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Old Aug 10, 2009 | 01:53 AM
  #1  
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whitenight2
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Exclamation 1989 b2 wont start

first of all i am posting for a friend and were racking our brains on the darn thing

heres the deal my friend has an 89 b2 with the 2.9 v-6 4x4 one night he left the lights on buy accident ran battery completely dead removed battery recharged and put back in truck would not start noticed replace coil no go ignition switch no go the switch that shuts down fuel pumps if your in an accident no go fuel pumps no go there is spark and all the fuesable links look and fell like there in good working order

after all this still no go but to night when he tried it for the first time he heard the pump never shut off once the key was turnded on so what can we check for that also any other ideas on this we fell like were beating out brains out on a brick wall any and all help are appreciated
 
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Old Aug 10, 2009 | 10:55 AM
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What kind of "no-start" are we looking at: the kind where the starter doesn't do anything, or the kind where the starter is cranking the engine just fine, but the engine won't fire and run on its own?
 
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Old Aug 10, 2009 | 02:12 PM
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From: Clovis ca (central vally)
Originally Posted by mrshorty
What kind of "no-start" are we looking at: the kind where the starter doesn't do anything, or the kind where the starter is cranking the engine just fine, but the engine won't fire and run on its own?

yeah it cranks just fine but there is nothing no pop but i do believe that its the sincere or what ever it is that shuts off the fuel pump after it builds pressure cause the fuel pump stays running
 
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Old Aug 10, 2009 | 04:02 PM
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i do believe that its the sincere or what ever it is that shuts off the fuel pump after it builds pressure cause the fuel pump stays running
There is no "sensor" that shuts off the pump. The PCM turns the pump on for a few seconds right after key on, then any time it sees the crankshaft/camshaft rotating. The fuel pump running continuously does indicate some fault in the fuel pump circuit, but it may or may not be related to the no start.

Things I would look at (in no particular order):

Fuel pump relay and wiring: Does the relay open when it should? Is there a short to ground between relay and PCM?
PCM wiring: Does the PCM have power? Ground? Can you pull codes from it?
Injectors: Are they getting power (should have a constant +12 V key on)? Is the PCM sending a signal to open?
Are you getting spark from the plugs?

A wiring diagram would probably help a lot. I've found the diagrams in Chiltons are workable for a lot of these basic things.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2009 | 09:50 PM
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If your getting Spark, and fuel ( You can hear the pump kicking on )

and you are sure that battery has the full cranking amps required to fire up.

Then i would check the Ignition Module about $40.00 at your local shop.

hit us back
 
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Old Aug 11, 2009 | 12:24 AM
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From: Clovis ca (central vally)
Originally Posted by Jab'sBronco2
If your getting Spark, and fuel ( You can hear the pump kicking on )

and you are sure that battery has the full cranking amps required to fire up.

Then i would check the Ignition Module about $40.00 at your local shop.

hit us back

ok friend has changed both ignition switch and ignition module both thanks for that will no more on the exact symptoms Wednesday when i get to the truck but will deffently check all of the and any of your guys suggestions
 
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Old Aug 11, 2009 | 12:26 AM
  #7  
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From: Clovis ca (central vally)
Originally Posted by mrshorty
There is no "sensor" that shuts off the pump. The PCM turns the pump on for a few seconds right after key on, then any time it sees the crankshaft/camshaft rotating. The fuel pump running continuously does indicate some fault in the fuel pump circuit, but it may or may not be related to the no start.

Things I would look at (in no particular order):

Fuel pump relay and wiring: Does the relay open when it should? Is there a short to ground between relay and PCM?
PCM wiring: Does the PCM have power? Ground? Can you pull codes from it?
Injectors: Are they getting power (should have a constant +12 V key on)? Is the PCM sending a signal to open?
Are you getting spark from the plugs?

A wiring diagram would probably help a lot. I've found the diagrams in Chiltons are workable for a lot of these basic things.

were is the pmc located on these trucks
 
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Old Aug 11, 2009 | 10:14 AM
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The PCM itself is located passenger side kick panel, just in front of the door, just below the glove box.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2009 | 05:12 PM
  #9  
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so pcm is same as ecu
 
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Old Aug 16, 2009 | 07:40 PM
  #10  
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put back togather and still no go

ok all i just got done getting elbow deep in grease on this truck putting back to gather what my friend took apart so now that is done tried to start it and


it cranks and cranks and cranks no go no pop check for spark and there is none were do i go from this point
 
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Old Aug 17, 2009 | 01:14 AM
  #11  
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let me get the rundown of the work done.

Changed:

Ignition switch and ignition module.
replaced coil.
checked all fusible links.


Now the truck ran before this battery running dead with the lights left on incident right?

If so then i would personally check the:

Pick up coil
And the distributer its self


But before you waste more time on those, have you tried another battery? i remember a time when i ran the battery dead on a fairlane, recharged it and had almost the same problem your having now, spent well over 500 dollars trying to figure out the problem, turned out to be 3 dead cells so not enough cold cranking amps to kick the motor and send fire to the plugs.

good luck and post updates!


What are CA's (cranking amps) & CCA's(Cold Cranking Amps)?
Cranking amps are the numbers of amperes a lead-acid battery at 32 degrees F (0 degrees C) can deliver for 30 seconds and maintain at least 1.2 volts per cell (7.2 volts for a 12 volt battery).
In other words, CA/cranking amps determine how much power you have to start your car in most climates. The basic job of a battery is to start an engine; it must crank, or rotate the crankshaft while at the same time maintain sufficient voltage to activate the ignition system until the engine fires and maintains rotation. This requirement involves a high discharge rate in amperes for a short period of time. Since it is more difficult for a battery to deliver power when it is cold, and since the engine requires more power to turn over when it is cold, the Cold Cranking rating is defined as: The number of amperes a lead-acid battery at 0 degrees F (-17.8 degrees C) can deliver for 30 seconds and maintain at least 1.2 volts per cell (7.2 volts for a 12-volt battery). In other words, CCA/cold cranking amps determine how much power you have to start your car on cold winter mornings.
 
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Old Aug 19, 2009 | 08:27 PM
  #12  
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Cool

un yeah new battery no help no power to coil can i by pass with out messing up anything you know run hot from battery to hot on coil also check all the fuel system relays and no luck cant get pump to stop pumping with in koeo also from the fuel presure regulator it sounds like there is a leak there is that normal there is not a leak more sounds like air escapeing

 
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Old Aug 20, 2009 | 05:33 PM
  #13  
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any one know how to get to the distributor do i have to take the intake plenum off for easy accuse need to know asap so i can get in and see if all my problem are from the distro pick up
 
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Old Aug 26, 2009 | 09:20 PM
  #14  
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ok just put it all back togather again with a new distributor still no spark no that resistor on the side of the coil dos that have anything to do with spark also what is the voltage on the spark signal (spout) wire on the ignition control module supposed to be

still im banging my head on a wall
 
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