clutch problem after ZF-conversion
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 242
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From: Norheimsund, Norway
clutch problem after ZF-conversion
I have installed the ZF 5 with a LUK solid flywheel conversion kit. The problem is that my clutch won`t work properly. It seems to work in a " too small range" I can press the clutch pedal at least 1/3 to the floor before I feel the hydraulic pressure. If I measure on the clutc fork, it moves only 1 cm when I press the pedal fully to the floor. Is this normally enough?
The clutch cylinders are new. I do not get any more are out of it. The connecting rod between teh pedal and cylinder is new. There is some wear where the rod is connected to the pedal. My first thought is that a longer connecting rod may would have fixed the problem.
Please help me out here. Are there someone who can measure how much the clutch fork moves? Please help me out of this one!
The clutch cylinders are new. I do not get any more are out of it. The connecting rod between teh pedal and cylinder is new. There is some wear where the rod is connected to the pedal. My first thought is that a longer connecting rod may would have fixed the problem.
Please help me out here. Are there someone who can measure how much the clutch fork moves? Please help me out of this one!
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2009
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did you disconnect either side of the line on either the clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder? I made the switch to the single flywheel a year ago and had trouble with the same problem. You may need to PROPERLY bleed the slave cylinder. just cracking the valve and pressing the pedal does not work on these. There are two ways to do it. The manuals tell you to let the slave cylinder hang down off the tranny and let it gravity bleed. They way I wound up doing it was to crack the bleeder and "takes some strength" push the clutch fork into the slave cylinder and force air out. Make sure you tighten the bleeder before you release or you will suck more air into the system. Good luck.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
I am also going to say your problem is air.
I bleed mine till I get enough pedal that the truck will sit still in gear, but usually not enough to put it in gear with the engine running.
Drive it around the block pushing the clutch and holding the pedal down for 10 seconds every 30 seconds while hitting every bump in the road.
That helps the air work back up the line to the master cylinder.
Bleeding air to the bottom of an almost vertical hydraulic line just don't work very well.
I bleed mine till I get enough pedal that the truck will sit still in gear, but usually not enough to put it in gear with the engine running.
Drive it around the block pushing the clutch and holding the pedal down for 10 seconds every 30 seconds while hitting every bump in the road.
That helps the air work back up the line to the master cylinder.
Bleeding air to the bottom of an almost vertical hydraulic line just don't work very well.
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Norheimsund, Norway
Thanks! I will try some your suggestions as soon as I am at home again.
(Had to go to work on the ferry)
(Had to go to work on the ferry)
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Senior User
Joined: May 2008
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From: I live in Tennessee
Most likely your bushing on the pushrod going into the master cylinder is wore out and has eaten into the eye of the rod. The pin that it hooks too is probably wore out too. Look under the dash at it while you push the clutch pedal, I bet its your problem. I had the same problem with one I was working on. Theres aftermarket fixes available as this is a fairly common problem. The rods made of aluminum and has a dinky plastic bushing.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
A wire welder, dress with a grinder back to round shape and a brass bushing in the clutch rod make that something you don't have to look at for years again.
Much better than the stock nylon bushing.
Much better than the stock nylon bushing.
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Norheimsund, Norway
haven`t had much time for it yet, but at least I did as Dave said. Forced it in gear with engine off. Started and drove it around a little. It gears just fine through all 5 gears, and no grinding or noises going into reverse. Still the pedal is too soft the first third and it doesn`t return properly. But I know enough to continue work on the worn pin , bushings and maybe air problem. Thanks. It is ok to know that the flywheel, clutch and transmission installation probably is ok.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,051
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From: Douglas, Georgia
i swapped from a c6 to a zf5.
the only way to get the master/slave bled for me was to get it all hooked up, fill the master resevoir, get under the truck with a pry bar and push the clutch fork so the slave depressed.
I did this about 40 times while my daughter topped off the master periodically.
No problems with air, tho I wasted a good bit of fluid.
the only way to get the master/slave bled for me was to get it all hooked up, fill the master resevoir, get under the truck with a pry bar and push the clutch fork so the slave depressed.
I did this about 40 times while my daughter topped off the master periodically.
No problems with air, tho I wasted a good bit of fluid.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
The pedal not returning to the top tells me you have air in the lines.
There is an assist spring in the clutch pedal linkage to help hold the clutch pedal down after you go past about 50%.
When there is no air in the lines, the pressure plate springs get the pedal above the 50% mark, then it returns to the top stop.
That is one time I am glad we have some rough roads around here.
The bumps help the air work up the clutch line to the master cylinder, pressing and releasing the pedal works the air out of the master cylinder.
There is an assist spring in the clutch pedal linkage to help hold the clutch pedal down after you go past about 50%.
When there is no air in the lines, the pressure plate springs get the pedal above the 50% mark, then it returns to the top stop.
That is one time I am glad we have some rough roads around here.
The bumps help the air work up the clutch line to the master cylinder, pressing and releasing the pedal works the air out of the master cylinder.
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 11,697
Likes: 3
From: Marengo, Iowa
I just put a new slave on my 92, and I was able to just work the slave rod several times, pushing the fluid back to the master. I did that actually off the truck(both master and slave) since it has been auto for a while, now went back to manual.It has worked just fine with no issues.
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