exhaust leak

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Jul 29, 2009 | 04:35 PM

ryan_fordguy

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From: Napoleon Ohio

exhaust leak

HI everyone, i need some help... My 2001 f-150 has an exhaust leak from the manifold on the passenger side. When i looked for it i noticed that one of the bolts holding the manifold on broke off!! The bolt is sticking out almost enough to grab it but not sure if i can and if it will even budge! Anybody got an idea?? i dont want to take somewhere and get charged a ton for it! Any easy way to take the manifold off and do it myself??

Jul 29, 2009 | 07:23 PM

LxMan1

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From: Louisville,Ky.

Real common for the studs to brake. I would remove the manifold and replace all of them with new stainless studs from your local Ford dealer. Replace the gaskets as well.

Jul 29, 2009 | 10:36 PM

ryan_fordguy

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From: Napoleon Ohio

Thanks, any real easy way to get it off? Its my Passenger side manifold.

Jul 30, 2009 | 02:26 PM

ryan_fordguy

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From: Napoleon Ohio

If i take the manifold off will the bolt come right out? I have heard i might have to drill it out?! I dont wanna do that...dont trust myself

Jul 30, 2009 | 05:43 PM

bnovak

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Quote:

Originally Posted by ryan_fordguy

If i take the manifold off will the bolt come right out? I have heard i might have to drill it out?! I dont wanna do that...dont trust myself

Spray all of the studs that you are replacing with aerokroil or PB blaster the night before you start the project, and then about an hour before you dive in. And no, WD40 doesn't count

The oil will penetrate the threads and help loosen the studs up. It also helps to have a MAPP gas torch - if the studs are really in good and the penetrating oil isn't working, heat the area around the base (block) of the stud and then start backing it out. A good pair of vice-grips will make this project a lot easier.

Jul 31, 2009 | 10:05 AM

papajoemrt

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From: Michigan

In addition to spraying the studs with aerokroil or pb blaster, drive around after spraying it to heat it up. then let sit spray again the night before, then spray before the mayhem begins. make sure to use stainless, and if you have any future plans of headers of any kind then save the work later and do them now.

Jul 31, 2009 | 02:05 PM

dblake37

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You may want to take the manifold somewhere to have it machined before you put it back on.

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Aug 1, 2009 | 12:49 PM

papajoemrt

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From: Michigan

The dealer sells the stainless steel manifold studs. I looked into them when I was trying to diagnose a ticking sound and i think they were around 7 or 8 dollars a stud, I remember them being expensive. I'd go with these and not autozone, oreilys, or napa even if they have them. You get what you pay for.