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badly leaking intake manifold

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Old Feb 15, 2017 | 10:41 AM
  #1  
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badly leaking intake manifold

Title says it all.
Can the intake manifold be removed for a new gasket w/o taking the exhaust manifold off as well?
Thank you, Tommy
 
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Old Feb 15, 2017 | 11:18 AM
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quick suggestion, providing more info on the year etc. of your truck/engine will allow the knowledgeable folks to help you better? The only gaskets I have looked at have been for combined intake/exhaust on a carbureted engine... depending on what you have others can advise you better than I.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2017 | 12:13 PM
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Hello Tommy,

The short answer is no, you can't. On the 300, the intake and exhaust manifolds share the same bolts. Each bolt has an intake mounting ear and an exhaust mounting ear underneath it.

You can kinda see it in this pic with the washers across the top.


You will need to remove all of the bolts to remove the intake.

Secondly, as HoustonDave said, the year of your truck will also dictate a few other things such as whether or not you need to remove the exhaust manifold to get the intake out. If it's carbureted, then yes. The intake and exhaust are bolted together and will need to be separated. If it's EFI, then no.

Either way though. The intake/exhaust manifolds on the 300 share the same gasket, so you will need to move the exhaust back far enough to get a gasket underneath it.


Lastly, if your intake is leaking, it could also be warped. If that's the case, a new gasket won't fix it. You'll need to take it to a machine shop and have it planed back to flat. I would suggest doing this no matter what you do. If you're working on a carb'd engine, just take the whole intake/exhaust manifold combo out and have it planed as one piece.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2017 | 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by AbandonedBronco
Lastly, if your intake is leaking, it could also be warped. If that's the case, a new gasket won't fix it. You'll need to take it to a machine shop and have it planed back to flat. I would suggest doing this no matter what you do. If you're working on a carb'd engine, just take the whole intake/exhaust manifold combo out and have it planed as one piece.
They are heavy!
 
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Old Feb 15, 2017 | 12:36 PM
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Haha, yes! Yes they are!
And having to lean over into the engine bay to lift them out makes them feel twice as heavy.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2017 | 04:57 PM
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badly leaking intake manifold

Thanks for the replies.
Good point- '79 f 150 300 cid w/a carb.
I have the intake studs out and I need a longer extension to remove the exhaust studs and the second exhaust down pipe stud.
Any other tips would be greatly appreciated.
Tommy
 
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Old Feb 15, 2017 | 06:11 PM
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Here you can see the shared gaskets.

As you can see I am using studs as I was told they make life easier when trying to put everything back together.


Here you can just make out the washer/nut that hold both manifolds to the head.



Abandonedbronco got a question for you.
Have you ever needed to change the ALT and if so how did you get the long bolt out as it hits the front EFI manifold and can't be pulled out.
Also trying to get to the ALT bracket to block bolts could be he11 with the ALT in place.
Ask how I know and my fix.
Dave ----
 
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Old Feb 15, 2017 | 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by FuzzFace2

Abandonedbronco got a question for you.
Have you ever needed to change the ALT and if so how did you get the long bolt out as it hits the front EFI manifold and can't be pulled out.
Also trying to get to the ALT bracket to block bolts could be he11 with the ALT in place.
Ask how I know and my fix.
Dave ----
Haha, yes, been there, done that. Trying to hold that alternator up and out of the way while you're undoing the bracket to block bolts. You start to hate that alternator after a while.

I fixed it by drilling out the threads for the alternator bolt and replaced it with one that comes from the side of the radiator, and then put a big nut on the side with the exhaust. It works great.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2017 | 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by AbandonedBronco
Haha, yes, been there, done that. Trying to hold that alternator up and out of the way while you're undoing the bracket to block bolts. You start to hate that alternator after a while.

I fixed it by drilling out the threads for the alternator bolt and replaced it with one that comes from the side of the radiator, and then put a big nut on the side with the exhaust. It works great.
When I went to pull the bolt out to install the ALT is when I found the issue.
Before fix

after fix -I drilled the bracket and used a Helicoil to thread the long bolt into to look stock.

Installed



Sorry for the hi jack but may help others if they do the EFI exh manifold swap as I never saw any posts on it.
Dave ----
 
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Old Feb 15, 2017 | 08:39 PM
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Very similar to what I did, but I just put a big nut on the other end instead of threading it.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2017 | 10:28 AM
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Any reason not to just tap it instead of doing a helicoil?
 
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Old Feb 16, 2017 | 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by HoustonDave
Any reason not to just tap it instead of doing a helicoil?
When the bolt runs in from the back like stock the hole is too big to thread it into.


Also the hole at the front with threads is too small so it needs to be drilled out for the bolt to pass thru it.


Easy way is as AB did and just drill out the front hole so the a longer bolt will pass thru and use a nut on it.
I just want it to look stock with out a nut and why I did it my way.


I have been known to take the hard road. I wanted factory AC in my 81 F100 non-AC truck so swapped the AC firewall into it.
Dave ----
 
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Old Feb 16, 2017 | 10:46 AM
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I am getting ready to do the EFI manifold swap and thought as long as I was in the vicinity I would change to the bolt-from the front set-up, so I would mainly be threading the rear hole and drilling the front one out. I have drill bits and taps to 1/2", so 'the thought occurred'.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2017 | 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by HoustonDave
I am getting ready to do the EFI manifold swap and thought as long as I was in the vicinity I would change to the bolt-from the front set-up, so I would mainly be threading the rear hole and drilling the front one out. I have drill bits and taps to 1/2", so 'the thought occurred'.
The rear hole is too large to thread as the bolt passes thru it stock.
That is why I used the helicoil to make the hole thread size for the bolt.


The easy way is what AB did, drill out the front hole so the bolt will pass thru, get a longer bolt and nut, run the bolt in from the front and nut on the back side.


As I said I like doing things the hard way
Dave ----
 
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