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Broken Exhaust Manifold Bolt

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Old Aug 24, 2007 | 07:40 PM
  #1  
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Broken Exhaust Manifold Bolt

I have a 1993 F150 XL 4X2. The back exhaust manifold bolt on the passenger side is broken and I am getting blow by past the gasket. If there is even a gasket remaining. Now to change this manifold bolt it is a big job as there are many accessories in the way, and not as much room as the driver side. My question is. Is there a way to plug the exhaust leak on a temporary basis, until I can find the time to take the truck off ther road to remove the manifold and fix the bolt. The exhaust leak is quite annoying. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks

Red
 
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Old Aug 24, 2007 | 08:01 PM
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Red,
I have the same exact problem. If you find any tips please let me know.
Best,
Justin
 
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Old Sep 2, 2007 | 12:07 AM
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What do you mean exactly, like the bold head is broken?
 
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Old Sep 2, 2007 | 12:22 AM
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I cringe to type this but:
Pull the engine and do it 'right'. Would be a great time to slap on new (better) headers.

If you still have this issue next summer, I'm pulling my 460 to do the same (among other things) while it's out. I can't start the project now since I use my truck to plow snow off my property and I surely can't get it done confidently before snow arrives.
 
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Old Sep 2, 2007 | 03:25 AM
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you have 2 options

1> remove the header completely and put some grips on the bolt rod and twist off -presto

2> remove the engine and do the same as 1


on a side note, i pulled my 5.0 out along with the trany and put her back in taking a little over 2 hours
 
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Old Sep 2, 2007 | 04:18 PM
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Well, what i was going to say is, if you cant get it out, try to "Easy Out" it. you can buy sets of it. (drilling hole in center of bolt... ect) if you need more info on that just talk to a harware store or do a google search.
 
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Old Sep 2, 2007 | 04:57 PM
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Just my thoughts but why would you pull the entire engine when you can just pull the head? It's alot of work either way.
The best way I have found to get the broken bolt out is to drill it out to the size needed to tap new threads in,(don't remember the size off the top of my head) and run a GOOD tap through it. I say good tap because I tried to go cheap and it just irritated me, use a spiral bottom tap, cost about $30 but worth it.
The tap should cut the old bolt out and give enough threads to tighten it back up.
And on a final note don't forget the anti-sieze when putting in the new bolt
 
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Old Sep 2, 2007 | 07:06 PM
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So this is for sure a broken bolt and a blown gasket?(sorry if I missed the obvious)

I just want to make sure that this isnt an infamous cracked manifold (no, never on a 302!).

BTW- "Easy Out"= Two lies in two words (it is never easy, and they rarely come out).

If you can get the rest of the bolts off without breaking them, remove the manifold, and heat the stud, and then spin it with a vice grips.

You might try removing the inner fender well also.
 
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Old Sep 2, 2007 | 09:51 PM
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why in the *** would you pull the head to take the headers off? not only would you be double working yourself and having to replace gaskets and what not, it also takes longer, just pull the engine out a simple 45 min job, presto!
 
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Old Sep 2, 2007 | 10:29 PM
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Trust me, pulling the engine is the best option. It will allow you to do it right, and will allow you to easily do other things such as oil pan/pump, new headers, head gaskets, valve cover gaskets, etc etc etc. (depending on the shape/age/maintenance records of your truck of course).

Drilling out a broken bolt takes patience and a well aligned drill (straight down the center). If you cut corners you could easily cause more damage.

Just my $.02
 
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Old Sep 2, 2007 | 10:49 PM
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Is it broken FLUSH with the cylinder head or below the cylinder head or is it just the head that is broken off the bolt? If it is just the head of the bolt then get a stud extractor and if it is flush or below the head then yank the motor and this would be a good time to do a few other things (ie. oil pan gasket, rear main seal, oil pump, tune up, water pump etc.). When you put it back together use studs instead of bolts that way you wont have to deal with this again. As for a temporary fix...I know of none. The manifold will no doubt be warped from getting heated up and cooled down and not being fastened down...so this may make a good time to replace or get headers.
 

Last edited by eco; Sep 2, 2007 at 10:51 PM.
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Old Sep 3, 2007 | 07:33 AM
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I think you'll be suprised to find out that in some years they didn't use exhaust manifold gaskets. They are just 2 machined parts. I know in 96 they didn't use a gasket....anyone else chime in.....subford?
Rich
 
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Old Sep 3, 2007 | 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by 96f150
I think you'll be suprised to find out that in some years they didn't use exhaust manifold gaskets. They are just 2 machined parts. I know in 96 they didn't use a gasket....anyone else chime in.....subford?
Rich
He did not say what engine, the 302 and 351 did not have gaskets but the 460 did. The gasket kits always came with the gaskets for all of the engine sizes for some reason.

To remove the bolt if broken flush.
Remove the exhaust manifold.
Get a nut with hole about the size of the broken part.
Holt the nut centered over the broken part, stick your rod in and weld the nut to the broken part.
The heat will loosen the threads and you can then unscrew it with a wrench.

Any of the patch putty stuff will not hold very long if at all.
 
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Old Sep 3, 2007 | 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by subford
...To remove the bolt if broken flush.
Remove the exhaust manifold. Get a nut with hole about the size of the broken part. Holt the nut centered over the broken part, stick your rod in and weld the nut to the broken part. The heat will loosen the threads and you can then unscrew it with a wrench.
That's the best way

I've used screwback extractors, drilled out, retapped, it's all a time-consuming pain that sometimes don't work. Weld a nut on it. If ya' don't have access to a welder, a good little MiG runs on 115V house current and costs $150, you'll love having one for other metal work too.
 
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Old Sep 3, 2007 | 08:45 AM
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yup

they dont call them easy outs for nothing,, they only work when its easy to get out.. i use the weld on it to remove method.. works like charm..


Ray
 
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