Rebuild / Replace hitch platform?
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,198
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa, OK
Rebuild / Replace hitch platform?
My 2003 Excursion hitch platform is still performing its function, but...the hitch pin hole is badly egg shaped from repeated hammering. It is getting worse.
I tow a heavy travel trailer. The drawbar will slip in the receiver box, even with plenty of weight distribution spring bar torque. I now have about 1/8" of axial slip when braking. The hitch is also starting to rust.
I know you are not supposed to cut or weld on these hitch platforms, but I cannot imagine how it could be harmed. I seriously doubt that this is HSLA (high strength low alloy) steel. It should be acceptable for a talented weld shop to repair the elongated hole. To be sure, however, I may just buy a new platform and install it. Monsta has provided good instructions on how to drill out the shear head bolts and I think I could install it.
Opinions? Any other options?
I tow a heavy travel trailer. The drawbar will slip in the receiver box, even with plenty of weight distribution spring bar torque. I now have about 1/8" of axial slip when braking. The hitch is also starting to rust.
I know you are not supposed to cut or weld on these hitch platforms, but I cannot imagine how it could be harmed. I seriously doubt that this is HSLA (high strength low alloy) steel. It should be acceptable for a talented weld shop to repair the elongated hole. To be sure, however, I may just buy a new platform and install it. Monsta has provided good instructions on how to drill out the shear head bolts and I think I could install it.
Opinions? Any other options?
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,332
Likes: 2
From: Summit, MS
My 2003 Excursion hitch platform is still performing its function, but...the hitch pin hole is badly egg shaped from repeated hammering. It is getting worse.
I tow a heavy travel trailer. The drawbar will slip in the receiver box, even with plenty of weight distribution spring bar torque. I now have about 1/8" of axial slip when braking. The hitch is also starting to rust.
I know you are not supposed to cut or weld on these hitch platforms, but I cannot imagine how it could be harmed. I seriously doubt that this is HSLA (high strength low alloy) steel. It should be acceptable for a talented weld shop to repair the elongated hole. To be sure, however, I may just buy a new platform and install it. Monsta has provided good instructions on how to drill out the shear head bolts and I think I could install it.
Opinions? Any other options?
I tow a heavy travel trailer. The drawbar will slip in the receiver box, even with plenty of weight distribution spring bar torque. I now have about 1/8" of axial slip when braking. The hitch is also starting to rust.
I know you are not supposed to cut or weld on these hitch platforms, but I cannot imagine how it could be harmed. I seriously doubt that this is HSLA (high strength low alloy) steel. It should be acceptable for a talented weld shop to repair the elongated hole. To be sure, however, I may just buy a new platform and install it. Monsta has provided good instructions on how to drill out the shear head bolts and I think I could install it.
Opinions? Any other options?
Why not just weld a plate with a hole on each side and use a longer pin?
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,198
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa, OK
Scott,
I am thinking the same thing (repair by welding). Two (2) problems with this:
1) Label on platform clearly states not to "cut, drill or weld".
2) Locking pins will no longer fit due to the distance from one side of receiver tube to the other.
I'm thinking of removing the platform so that the pin hole can be "filled" with weld metal and then re-drilled.
I am thinking the same thing (repair by welding). Two (2) problems with this:
1) Label on platform clearly states not to "cut, drill or weld".
2) Locking pins will no longer fit due to the distance from one side of receiver tube to the other.
I'm thinking of removing the platform so that the pin hole can be "filled" with weld metal and then re-drilled.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 12,253
Likes: 763
From: Houston, Texas
I'd just get myself a newer, better hitch and be done with it. The last thing you want is to be like Fred Flintstone and watch your own trailer pass you....or worse yet, wonder where you trailer went....
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,332
Likes: 2
From: Summit, MS
Scott,
I am thinking the same thing (repair by welding). Two (2) problems with this:
1) Label on platform clearly states not to "cut, drill or weld".
2) Locking pins will no longer fit due to the distance from one side of receiver tube to the other.
I'm thinking of removing the platform so that the pin hole can be "filled" with weld metal and then re-drilled.
I am thinking the same thing (repair by welding). Two (2) problems with this:
1) Label on platform clearly states not to "cut, drill or weld".
2) Locking pins will no longer fit due to the distance from one side of receiver tube to the other.
I'm thinking of removing the platform so that the pin hole can be "filled" with weld metal and then re-drilled.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 120
Likes: 2
Give that a shot until you get it repaired or replaced.
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,198
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa, OK
I'm going to buy a new hitch platform and do the work to replace it. The only confusion regards the correct part number. One dealer quotes YC3Z*17D826*AB for $499. Oddly, the other dealer quotes YC3Z*17D826*BA for $182.
I can get the 2 correct shear-head bolts (1C7Z*17758*AA) as well as other 6 bolts (*W708772*S439).
Can anyone report the correct part number for latest class IV (1250 lb / 12K ) hitch?
I can get the 2 correct shear-head bolts (1C7Z*17758*AA) as well as other 6 bolts (*W708772*S439).
Can anyone report the correct part number for latest class IV (1250 lb / 12K ) hitch?
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Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,198
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa, OK
I'm going to buy a new hitch platform and do the work to replace it. The only confusion regards the correct part number. One dealer quotes YC3Z*17D826*AB for $499. Oddly, the other dealer quotes YC3Z*17D826*BA for $182.
I can get the 2 correct shear-head bolts (1C7Z*17758*AA) as well as other 6 bolts (*W708772*S439).
Can anyone report the correct part number for latest class IV (1250 lb / 12K ) hitch?
I can get the 2 correct shear-head bolts (1C7Z*17758*AA) as well as other 6 bolts (*W708772*S439).
Can anyone report the correct part number for latest class IV (1250 lb / 12K ) hitch?
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 12,237
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From: Florida
Regardless of how you fix it...the cause I believe is how Deno describes it...
Either use a straight PROPERLY RATED hitch pin for your load...or you can do as I did...a $0.10 hose clamp at the crook of your pin and the crook doesn't ride into the hole and wallow it out...mine wallowed until I did this and now it is wallowed BUT stable...
Please note that the photos below are not of my setup but a close friend of mine...
Good luck!
Joe.
Either use a straight PROPERLY RATED hitch pin for your load...or you can do as I did...a $0.10 hose clamp at the crook of your pin and the crook doesn't ride into the hole and wallow it out...mine wallowed until I did this and now it is wallowed BUT stable...
Please note that the photos below are not of my setup but a close friend of mine...
Good luck!
Joe.
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,498
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There is a repair for the problem you are having, if you go to a D.O.T. approved shop they should be able to put a sleeve in each side the hitch. Just make sure thay are D.O.T approved.
Stuff like this is done on big trucks all the time. Check out a truck repair shop that cuts frames and does drive shafts, just see what they say.
Stuff like this is done on big trucks all the time. Check out a truck repair shop that cuts frames and does drive shafts, just see what they say.
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