Only the pump knows, and it ain't talkin'. I have 183K on my original fuel pump (I've had the ITP mod for about a year and a half) and a lift pump has always been on my list of "things to do when I get the money and the time after I'm done fixing what I broke and spending time with my wife and kids". It's a long title but self-explanatory ! After reading this I'm going to have to up the priority of a lift pump to help my stock one last as long as possible.

 

I think it was mentioned in this topic but I been reading tons of old threads so sorry if I got it mixed up.
Somone asked about using a stock gas engine intank pump for the lift pump. Will it work or not. Diesel is a little harder to pump I know but I'm more concerned about the plastic vane type pump ford usually uses vs the metal grotor pump most aftermarket pumps are. Anyway, what do you guys think about that easy install idea.

I'm also interested in doing the excursion rear tank as well and try to retrofit the obs fuel selector down on the frame and intank lift pumps. Seems easy enough.

 

The use of the Excursion tank will require the use of an Excursion trailer hitch assembly. They are different for the EX's and trucks.

And, of course, finding a new place for the spare tire.

The filler arrangement will also have to be worked out.

In addition to the fuel and gauge switching, I believe those are most of the considerations.

Pop

 

an older thread had stated that you need to use the excursion hitch with the tank, but one person had said if you make custom brackets you dont need the excursion hitch. But also, Ill be building a custom rear bumper and the stock hitch isnt a big deal. My truck does not have the underside spare tire holder anyway, so no worries about that, my trailer carries the truck spare tire anyway.

Filler is my only concern, ill have to buy a filler patch panel and fuel door kit from the autobody place and graft it into the rear body, again not a big deal.
The fuel selector switching is the only tricky part, but I have that figured out as well, Ill be running fuel pump relays for the intank pumps, and the sending units are low enough power to run a plain 6pole switch, but I need an 8 pole switch for the pumps to work on the same one as well. Ill have to draw out the diagram some other time for clarification, but ill document it all when i finally do it. Just trying to get an idea of some common issues.

Thanks guys for the help.

 

Here is some pictures that I took of a dissassembled fuel pump for a VW Vanagon.
Gas engine vehicle with nearly 200,000 miles on this pump.
What wore out on it was the commutator ring, the brushes, pump impellor, etc were still good as new.
.
I use a similar pump, mounted at the end of the fuel pickup in the fuel tank.

 

Hmm. I just thought about this, but what does the stock fuel system use for regulating fuel pressure. I had seen on eBay a new higher fuel pressure spring, and also read about shimming the stock spring, is that all about the stock fuel bowl and return system.
When we use a highpressure pump intank or inline, what keeps that from just trying to overpressurize the system and burn out or overheat.

Do you guys think that a stock ford gas pump will work with diesel. I have a few 03 cobra 190lph variable power vane pumps that I use in most all my turbo projects, that I could get rid of most all the stock junk surrounding the oem fuelpump, which is usually around 110lph.

Also, will the obs fuel selector valve flow enough fuel for a modified superduty.

 

I will just address the stock FPR question. It is a spring and Shutoff located on the fuel bowl. A shim is commonly used to boost the fuel pressure. The stock external pump is proven capable of producing 400hp with no problems. As for the gasser in tank pumps, I don't know how long they will last in diesel or whether there is even any benefit. I am a fan of gravity, not lifting stuff out of the tank. I get mine old school, right out of the bottom of the tank.

I am also not a fan of dual pumps as I see airation as a result of that setup.

 

Well the idea of using the gas engine fuelpump assembly is just me hoping for an easy and quick solution to the liftpump idea. Kwikordead retrofitted a pump onto his stock sendingunit and pickup but while I could also do this, if the gas engine sendingunit and fuelpump would work, why not just drop one in all in one easy step.

 

UPDATE: I finally put on the ITP fuel tank mod which came with a external fuel filter adapter with a baldwin filter. was pretty happy with the overall ease of installation, and was pretty happy with the overall outcome of the mod. I still wanted to know if I had air coming into the system so I went to the local NAPA store and bought a sight glass with a plastic filter in it, pulled the filter out, so it acted just as a sight glass.
I was not seeing any air in the system but for some reason after some more miles where put on the truck, I was feeling the old familiar surge at low RPM's and that had disappeared after the mod. SOOOO back under the truck looking for air in the fuel and checking all the fittings, and found nothing that looked out of place,,, I even wiggled the fuel lines etc. then for some reason I tapped on the baldwin filter and when I did this, massive amounts of air showed in the site glass...... I loosened and retightned the filter which changed nothing, went and bought a new NAPA filter and installed it thinking I might have a bad O-ring.

When pulling out the baldwin filter I found it was half air and half fuel... so after installing the NAPA filter I ran the truck,,,, and found the same problem,,, half air and half fuel...Now keep in mind that before installing either filter I prefilled the filter so air would not be present....

To make a long story short, I still dont know where the air came from, so I deleted the new baldwin fuel filter. and ended up with this configuration....

New fuel rated rubber hose from the tank to my sight glass with filter then to the pump.... everything seems to be working fine now....I think I have even gain atleast 1 MPG or better with better throttle response... I know there are alot of ITP mods as well as other mods out there,,, but in hind site,,, I wish I would have just went to the local NAPA store bought some 3/8's hose and the site glass and filter.... as far as the intank mods I could have also used a piece of rubber hose to the duck bill after eliminating the mixing chamber.....

All in all for under $50 I could have done the same thing I paid big bucks for.....I still have a pre filter ahead of the pump, and the OEM filter at the motor..... I think this is going to work fine..

 

If you aren't going to use that Baldwin filter, you should sell it to someone who can use it and wants one.

If I were you, however, I'd just re-install it. But that's just me.....

Pop

 

I really want to reinstall it,,,, cause eventually I am going to put in new injectors and the more I can protect that investment the better,,,, I just havent decided how I am going to do it yet.... I am either going to try and add a lift pump or install the filter after the OEM pump...

Still dont know where the air came from,,, that is the part that is confusing me.... I guess in the coming week, I am going to drop the fuel tank again...... and recheck all the lines and fittings...

woody

 

If you added a purge valve to the top of the filter base, you could let all that air out, as gravity (siphoning) would allow flow to displace the air.

My Dahl collects air, too, but I don't worry about it.

Pop

 

Doe's anyone have any updates to this thread, my fuel light came on so I'm runnin on the auxilliary tank for now and was wantin to do the mod. Is Clays kit ready to roll.

 

After doing this MOD I have my own opinions and will share them with you,,, for as little as $50 you can to this MOD. Instead of adding a new fuel filter base and filter, simply go to a auto supply store and buy an inline filter 3/8's barb on both ends, then buy enough fuel line, (rated for diesel) and install it. You can drop the tank and remove the mixing chamber and then using a small amount of fuel line you can extend the fuel line down to the bottom or the tank thru the duck bill. (approx 2 inches) then for the fuel return line you can do one of two things, either do nothing, and you will be dumping return fuel from the motor close to the intake, or you could add a length of hose to the return line and dump the fuel away from the intake, Then run your new fuel line in the same place as the OEM line, except pick a spot to splice in the inline filter you bought, that is convinient to get to and keep an eye on. then go onto the fuel pump.

You can do this very easily, you will have a prescreen before the pump, then continue using the OEM fuel bowl filter. This is a quick and easy fix, I wish I would have done this instead of spending the $180 that I really didnt need, I am not doing excessive pulling, and dont need to have mega power, with my driving habits and some pulling I am convinced that this simple mod will do just fine. I do still have my filter base and filter, and my plans for it is to place it after the OEM pump, not in front of it, for some reason air was stilll getting into the system, I am thinking that this filter set up is good for pressure and not vacume.

I know there is going to be alot of people out there that is going to have plenty of comments for me, and that is fine, but you have to decide what you need, what are your driving habits and what are your needs, since I dont have a ton of mods and dont require high performace this is working just fine for me.... so guys dont jump me,,,, he is asking for some input and this is just my 2 cents worth that works for me....

I will say with this simple MOD I did increase power, that I notice at the pedal, and I also am getting alittle better milage, maybe 1 or 2 MPG, I believe that the better milage is just a bye product of getting up to speed fast so I dont have to keep my foot in the pedal as long, only makes sense....

As far as you one tank not working, well I am not familiar with the two tank set up, I only have one tank, so maybe someone else can help you out there. I hope my opinion is helpful to you, and understand that this is just my thoughts on the subject and it works great for me...

woody

 

Marv A purge valve will work on the base, but the problem is this, when I installed the system I purged the system with the OEM pump tilll I got free flow and no air, I also prefilled the filter, so I had NO NO air in the system in the beginning, so air came into play from somewhere, that means that some seal somewhere was not holding and letting air into the system, and bye you saying your filter only runs half full of fuel and half air, you are defeating the purpose of doing this mod..... we want NO air in the system at all, remember that is the problem and the reason for doing this mod to begin with... I would be willing to say that if you found a way for your filter to run full all the time, you would have even more power.

Just my 2 cents worth

woody