For the pressure gauge, I have the parts coming to do this (bdrummond's install):


It's a mechanical (much cheaper that way), stays outside of the cab (hence being able to run a mechanical gauge), and you can see it under load. Here's another angle:

 

Here is some more food for thought on the lift pump idea, after driving around today, thinking about the confusion that some people are feeling as to add a lift pump or not, I have come up with this idea, granted some will see my thoughts as a good fix and some will not like the idea very well and go ahead a put a lift pump in... and that is ok to.... but this is what I have figured out in my little pea brain.

Our stock fuel pump is really designed to have flow and pressure, granted it will create a vacume in order to draw fuel from the tank, but its bigger job is to supply around 60 psi to the fuel bowl.... and since the biggest concern that I am hearing on here about adding a fuel mod like ITP or others, and installing a filter in the vacume side creates doubt in some minds as to whether the OEM pump will be able to handle the extra pull coming from the tank thru the filter before it finally gets to the pump.... with me so far?

Here is the idea,,, instead of plumbing the new filter in the vacume side of the system, (between the tank and the pump. Mount the filter in the same place, but when routing the fuel hoses instead of going tank-new filter-pump...... try rerouting the hoses to go tank-pump-new filter, then on to the motor,,,,, by doing this you are using the pump to pump fuel thru the filter, instead of using the pump to suck fuel thru the new filter.....

Did I lose anyone? really a simple fix, just reroute the hoses...... anyone else have some thoughts on this? I will be rerouting hoses tomorrow cause I sure like using the pump as a pump and not as a vacume pump....... I am sure it will work better over time, and eleminate the problem of burning out the pump, or not being able to supply enough fuel to the system during heavy pulls...........

woody

 

I don't think that it is a good idea to not have a filter before the pump since the screen is being removed from the pickup. I'm under the impression that the idea of have a pre-pump filter is to protect the pump.

 

That's exactly it.
I learned the hard way by clogging up the screen that is inside the inlet of the fuel pump.
No way to get at it and clean it out, so I had to replace it. DOH!

 

That's right, Keith. That's why I used a course filter there instead of the big baldwins or whatever. My philosophy is that the pump only needs course filtering to keep big crud out of it. The stock filter handles a lot of flow, so unless you're building a monster 7.3, it will do the job. Another thing is that some folks like to delete the fuel bowl after installing the pre-pump filter. I think it's a good idea to leave it in case something lets go in the pump and send shrapnel into the heads. My $0.02...

EDIT: Dan you beat me to it. I was a bit distracted...

 

Ah very interesting information, and I must say both of you are correct, with that being said, why not put in small inline filter between the tank and pump,, I still like the big filter infront of the OEM filter, dual filtration can only be better, from working with construction equipment, a majority of them have started running 2 filter in the fuel system, so 2 filter on our vehicals to protect the injectors can not be a bad thing....

So that being said, and bye you guys opening my eyes alittle more (much appriciated, that is why I like this forum and all the help) I am going to purchase a small inline filter to run infront of the pump to catch any big stuff, since we dont have a screen in the tank now. Not sure but probably going to be a screen and not a paper filter but will look into that further..... but stilll going to reroute the fuel lines today,,,,

I hope this does not get to confusing for some of the guys out there wanting to do this mod. so many options, and we all want the best option and best fix for our money....but I am still convinced without a doubt, bye doiing away with the mixing chamber, and OEM fuel line and fittings that a person can not go wrong at all..... as far as the plumbing and routing of the hoses, there is no reason the ITP system will not work as designed, but since alot of us out there want to imporove on what we have, we will never be happy until we tinker some more. sometimes it works and sometimes it doesnt.....

So with the latest info I just read from Dan and Joe (thank you guys) I am going to modify just a bit more,,,, here is my new plumbing idea tank-inline screen or filter-pump-new ITP baldwin filter setup- motor, (or OEM fuel bowl)

 

I guess that could work, but now you're going to have to suck fuel through a filter and push it through the water separator making the pump work even that much harder. Or are you saying do away with the water separator filter altogether and just use a small in-line pump?
I like the idea of having that nice filter before the fuel even gets to the pump. Will keep water out of the pump too....

 

I am saying keep the filter (water seperator) If you have been into your tank, you will find a course screen at the bottom of the duck bill, and then you will find 2 screens inside of the mixing chamber, so in essence your pump is already pulling thru 3 screens even before the mod, granted these screens are very course, only screening out large chunks.....

when you do the mod. you are eleminating the 3 OEM screens in the tank. So my thought is buy an inline screen to place between the tank and pump, in essence it is going to do the same thing the other 3 screens where doing. so I am eleminating 3 OEM screens and adding my own inline screen before the pump, then I am going to use my OEM pump to to push fuel thru my new baldwin filter instead of suck it thru the filter.... our OEM pump is a true pump to generate volume and pressure, it is not a vacume pump.... so I am thinking I am going to have better luck pushing fuel thru the baldwin filter instead of trying to suck fuel thru it....

This is what i have come up with, eliminate the 3 screens in the tank with the mod. add 1 inline screen between tank and pump ( catch all the big stuff) then go thru the pump, then onto the ITP baldwin filter (water seperator) then onto the motor....

I noticed that you referred to the baldwin filter as a water seperator,,, it really is a filter with a petcock on the bottom of the filer,,,, yes it will do some water seperation, but it is not a true water seperator,,,, it is a filter first, with some head space between the bottom of the filter element and the bottom of the can to catch big stuff and water,,,, hence the reason for the petcock so you can open it up and drain what gets collected there....

Hope this helps,,, anyone else have any thoughts on this,,,???

woody

PS if I knew how to upload some pictures on here I would take a picture of the duck bill screen and the 2 screens located in the mixing chamber so you would understand what I was talking about... cause I know that pictures are worth a thousand words

 

I see what your trying to do, but I don't really see why. I am assuming that ITP mounts the filter behind the transfer case correct? If that is the case you will be running a line to the pump, then all the way back to the filter, and then you will have to run a line all the way to the fuel bowl. Is that your plan? Seems like a lot of extra line and such. Am I on track with what you are planning as far as routing lines or are you planning something different.

 

If one wanted to add a lifter pump, then why not just add the pump between the ITP supplied filter and the factory pump? Then there's no need for a screen, both pumps would be protected.

I see what you mean about the filter/water separator though, I guess you're right it isn't really a separator.

 

Jeff yes the filter mounts closed to where you mentioned, but the fuel line from the pump to the bowl is still the OEM line,,,, you are eliminating the OEM line and fitting from the tank to the pump, and replacing it with the supplied 3/8 line and filter..... bye putting the pump infront of the filter,,,, I will still keep the current OEM line, and just have to make a fitting work there.....

This really is just my own idea,,,,, if you run the ITP kit,,,, I cant see why you would need to tinker with it like I am, The only reason I could think of having to add a lift pump might be if you are making a moster 7.3 that is going to demand a large amount of fuel. other than that for normal driving and normal pulling I would not worry about the lift pump..... if you did need a lift pump down the road, then just mount it and splice into the supply line and wire it in connection with the OEM pump

 

That's what I do -- I just use a cheap inline course filter:

 

So, after having installed the ITP kit last Tuesday morning and then driving 8 hours to TN to the RRE event and everything worked flawlessly. Then Tuesday night at midnight my fuel pump quit. It froze up just like that without warning. It was too hot to touch and no fuel was being pumped to the bowl. A new fuel pump was installed and all is well again.

Coincidence? Or the nail in the coffin for a weak pump with 175,000 miles on it?
Looks like I'll be adding a lifter pump here very, very soon. Since I'll never know what caused the pump's demise, I'm sure not going to take a chance.

 

I just did my Dads Tank mod. No filter except the big filter up front(water serperator). I did mine last year. Is it the consensious we need filters between the pump and the tank? Inline? Wasn't there a Metal Puralator( or somthing) at autozone that was 3/8" inlet and a good flow to not starve the pump? There is screens in the pump?

 

Under those circumstances, that's probably a good idea.

Pop