Yes there is, but when I did that mod, I made a lot of calls and nobody had any wire that was labeled for immersion in fuel.
They all had "fuel resistant" wire.
So what I did was to rig up a test bottle with a 50/50 mix of diesel and biodiesel. Put two samples of wire into that fuel and just let it sit on the shelf.
Several years later, the insulation hasn't even began to soften and I check it periodically.
So I stopped worrying about the insulation getting dissolved by the fuel, it doesn't seem to affect it.
As far as the bare terminals are concerned, don't worry about that.
This is a picture of a fuel pump that is designed to run inside the fuel tank of a gas powered VW.
Notice the bare spade terminals? Apperently it's safe enough, even using a volitile fuel like gasoline. There is not enough oxygen inside the fuel tank for anything to ignite.
Diesel isn't volitile, so don't worry about the bare terminals.

 

I wasnt really worried about the ignition, more like something shorting out. I know diesel is pretty stable stuff when compared to gas.

How long has that stuff been sitting in a jar on your shelf? (Just curious)

Thanks

 

Since April of 2006.
I put them there when I posted THIS THREAD documenting the move from the frame rail to the tank.
.
I just went and checked them again, both samples are unchanged from when I put them in there 3 1/2 years ago.
I'm not going to worry about the wiring anymore.

 

Converting the fuel system to a pressurized one has many advantages, but there is one downside that no one has yet mentioned. It won't apply to most of you, but it might if you're using a Dahl system.

The Dahl fuel/water separator system is most effective when run on the suction side of the system, as it has a "dispersion cone" that fuel is pulled through to cause a more thorough separation of elements. The fuel pressure drops significantly (from atmospheric) through the cone, causing the water to precipitate more readily.

From Baldwin's site: http://www.baldwinfilter.com/productsdahl.html
"DAHL’s functional dual-chamber 3-stage diesel fuel filter/water separators provide efficient suction side water separation and contaminant filtration. The key is the unique DAHL patented depressurizer cone, which spreads the flow of the fuel. With more area to flow over, greater separation of water and dirt from the fuel is achieved."

Those using a Dahl should be aware that their water separation effectiveness may be reduced by using an in-tank pump, but should have no adverse effect on the system's particulate filtration.

Pop

 

This thread is bumming me out. I was all set to do the in-tank mod and add the Baldwin pre-pump filter but now not sure what to do.
I don't want to drop the tank again so I'm waiting until I figure out what to do.
I wonder if I was to go ahead and install the ITP kit and found I needed a booster pump if it could be added in-line instead of in-tank?

 

Baldwin makes spin-on filters that should do the job for you. Some even have a water-drain valve in the bottom.

It's only the Dahl unit to which I'm referring.

Pop

 

If you take the time to eliminate all the quick connects between the tank and the fuel pump inlet, using fuel injection rated fuel line and double up on the clamps at every union, it will be 95% as good as putting the pump in the tank.
The single most important goal is to stop the air intrusion.
.
Or get Clay's pump kit.
It will be a nice easy way to fix things.

 

The ITP in-tank kit using a Baldwin spin-on filter...

 

... and it comes complete with a little valve on hte bottom if you want to periodically drain to check for water, but the casing is not transparent so there is no way to know if the water is there until you open the drain valve.

 

I would not worry too much about it. There are many people running the ITP kit without having to run a lift pump. Get the kit, install it and then install a fuel pressure gauge and check your pressure. If it is not adequate, then you might think about adding a lift pump or replacing your fuel pump. In the event that you need to add a lift pump, it can be mounted on the frame in-line. Look here......http://www.guzzle7pt3.com/pump.php.

 

Just finished installing the ITP tank and filter kit, really a very easy mod to perform, I actually used the fuel pump to empty the tank, then it was real easy to drop the tank and put the new parts together.

Something I found while in the tank and was pretty surprised was the amount of dirt and grit I found in the mixing chamber inside of the tank. Not sure where all of it came from, but it was pretty bad for a system that should be clean. So very relieved now that I have a baldwin filter installed as well as the stock filter, so I can continue on with more mods like injectors.

I can hear a slight difference in the sound at idle, and can feel a difference in the pedal while driving, both for the the best, and on my next trip I will know more while on the road and pulling a load, but I am thinking that it is definately going to be a better deal all the way around.

I am very happy with ITP's kit, everything was very easy to install, and the instructions was laid out very well.... but reallly if you have any mechanical skills you really dont need them, pretty straight forward and simple. The only other thing I am going to do is to find an inline sight glass and install between the pump and baldwin filter, just to keep an eye on things and see if any air is getting in.

As far as pump pressure, I dont know how much drop in PSI if any the new filter caused, If I have any problems adding an external lift pump will be an easy fix, just cut the line between the fuel tank and the new baldwin filter and istall it, and wire it to the OEM pump, so when you turn the key on and the OEM pump cycles, the lift pump will cycle at the same time,,,, Really not a big problem,,,, but not going to install one, unless I find down the road it is needed.....

Long post, but just wanted to let anyone out there that might be thinking of doing this mod, to rest easy and go for it.... very easy fix, and while the tank is down, be sure to trim the vent and fill tubes as well for ease of filling and extra fuel capacity.


Woody

 

Jeff I need to know where you connected you fuel gauge at? did you T into the fuel line or what,, and what kind of gauge and lines did you use to plumb it in?

thanks
woody

 

My fuel gauge is under the hood off the extra port on the rear of the fuel filter housing. There are some pics in my gallery.

 

My gauge is an electronic fuel pressure gauge from Dipricol. ITP and Diesel Manor sell them. They are not cheap gauges and you can get cheaper ones than this, but I already had a few of the gauges already and wanted to stay with the same brand.

When I still had the fuel bowl, I used one of the ports on the back of the fuel bowl. I had to get an adapter from Diesel Manor, look on this page at the second item http://www.dieselmanor.com/dm_products/fittings.asp. The port on the backside of the fuel bowl that I used was on the top at the driver's side. It is an allen size screw. There is also one on the bottom of the passenger side of the bowl.

Just don't use a mechanical gauge inside the cab. If you want one inside the cab get an electronic gauge, or there are some guys on here that have setups outside on the cowl.

 

Nice post. Reps coming.