Let me start by saying that I have been lurking around the forums for about a year now, gathering information and trying to decide what truck i need (want). This is an awesome forum with tons of great information and knowledgable people.

I finally found a truck that suites my needs and budget, 2003 F-250 Super Cab Short Bed V10. I take delivery of her some time this week. She needs a little work to get her up to my standards. First thing i need to do is get a frame-rust problem under control. It should be illegal to use as much salt as they do up here in MA.

Anyway, i would like to pull the bed off so i can apply some rust converter to the frame and maybe some herculiner (or line-x if i can scrape up enough pennies) to keep it from coming back. I guess i will just apply the rust converter/liner as best i can to the front portion of the frame because i don't think i want to tackle pulling the cab.

My first question is how much does the bed weigh? Can i grab a couple buddies and lift it off?

Where are the locations of the harnesses that i need to disconnect?

Do i need to drop the gas tank/bumper etc...?

If anyone has done this please feel free to give me some pointers. I especially love posts that start with "whatever you do, make sure you don't..."

 

You and 3 of your beer drinking buddies can lift the bed off and walk it away. I think 2 guys could do it, if you lifted one end, set it on horses, then lift the other end and support it, then roll the truck out. I don't think 2 guys could lift it and walk it away.

The only harnesses are the lights, and you'll find the connectors at the rear of the truck.

No need to drop fuel tank, spare tire, nothing really. Just remove the bolts, disconnect the wires, disconnect the fuel fill lines, remove the tail gate, and lift it off.

I don't know that actual weight.

 

Sorry to hi-jack. But I recall a thread that said the bed bolts were not re-useable. IIRC they had to be cut off and new ones put in? That sound right?

 

you got me pegged.

I discovered early on that a minimum of 1-2 beers is required to begin any significant repair. You can double that for electrical problems.

Thanks bpounds, that was what i was looking for. Now is there a procedure for re-installing and making sure the bed is on straight or do you just measure/eyeball it as best you can?

Anyone know the propper torx size for those bed bolts? Anything else i should change out/take a look at while i have the bed off anyway?

 

They are reuseable, IF you can get them out without cutting them. On an '03 like the OP has, chances are good that one or more will need to be cut out. And replacements are not cheap. There are two different length bolts. Douching the bolts with penetrating oil and letting it work for a while would be good.

You will just eye-ball the bed. It's easy to align the front with the cab by eyeing down the side, and in the rear you can just get the bumper clearance equal on both sides. It's nothing critical, just so it looks good.

I don't know the torx bit size. I have a set, and I just chose the one that works, and for some reason my set is not labeled for size. If someone would confirm that, I would like to add it to my info. I was lucky that all my bolts came out, and I didn't break any torx bits.

You can look at my page for some pictures of a partially lifted bed, here:
http://www.billpounds.com/truck/fuel...nkHarpoon.html

 

The previous owner replaced the bed with a 2008 in November. I am hoping the bolts and clips are new and won't give me too much trouble. What's preventing me from replacing the factory bolts with grade 8 hardware?

 

Sounds like you won't have a problem, since the bolts have not been in there too long.

Why would you want to change the bolts? Assuming they come out for you, there is no reason not to reuse them. The bolts are a low profile head, so stuff doesn't snag when sliding around the bed. Personally I would want the OEM bolts.

 

sorry that last post was from my phone at a stop light so i didn't articulate well...

I will certainly reuse the OEM bolts if possible. I was just thinking of alternatives if i have to start cutting and OEM replacements are too spendy...

Your right though, low-profile bolts are necessary, so the grade-8 hex bolts wouldn't be the best.

 

As per Ford Truck Body Builder Specs

In english, this means that the box weighs 550 lbs minus the spare tire and bumper, probably a combined 75 lbs or so....

so around 475 lbs!

 

BUT i can remove the tailgate which should remove another 75-100lbs or so...

my beer drinking buddies are pretty skinny, so it might take 5 of them... 3 per side to walk it off. Not too bad.

 

And minus the tailgate, which must be over 50#.

 

"It should be illegal to use as much salt as they do up here in MA."

You take that back! Us car wash owners gotta eat too .