I have inherited the family 1972 Ford F100 Styleside 8' bed 2WD truck. We have named her Ruby because she "was" a Candy Apple red back in her glory days. We have had her since 1974 and have done many things to keep her running and from rusting away. My father and I have a unhealthy bond with this truck and have refused to give her up for years and years. But I'm not sure at this point if it is worth putting any money into her for a light restoration or if I should say "Goodbye" and let her go to truck heaven (this is not an option I am fond of).

The Engine was rebuilt in 1990-1992 and has about 30K since the rebuild.
Q1: How can I tell what engine is in her? (Just found out its a 360 2 barrel Carb Engine)

We replaced the Rusted bed in 1999 and at that time the frame was sand blasted to remove the rust and painted black with some rust proofing paint, i'm not sure what. The sides of the frame were also reinforced with steel L beams that were bolted and welded on as the original frame had rusted and bent up my the driver side cab.
Q2: If the frame has since rusted and needs to be replaced what other frames are compatible without modifications? F100 4x4, F250, what years etc.

Unfortunately the seam of the windshield is rusting and piece fall out when you close the doors.
Q3: Is there any fix for this or is a new cab is needed.

Recently the Starter & Flywheel connection has gone out. The teeth on the flywheel no longer engage the starter. My dad mentioned the Ring Gear needed to be replaced so it will engage the starter again. THis has been an on going issue for 10+ yrs and since Ruby won't start because of this its time to get it fixed.
Q4: Any ideas on how much this will cost? What is the most cost effective thing to do here? Replace the entire Flywheel, have it rebuilt, or replace the ring gear only?

At the same time as fixing the Flywheel we figure we should replace the Clutch.
Q5: Any ideas on how much this runs?

I have been looking into other non-running trucks with the thought I could pull Rubys' engine and put it into a good body/frame truck since Rubys' frame may well be rust particles holding hands.
Q6: Since I can't do the work myself anymore would you contact a body shop of rebuilt shop or regular mechanic for this kind of swap?
Q7: This might be a question for after I know what Engine I have but what Bodies are compatible with a '72 F100 engine?

And finally given the rust issues and flywheel issues .
Q8: Am I better off just getting a different truck all together and taking Ruby off life support?

Thank you for reading and giving me feedback.

 

With everything you say is needed, I would part it out and get rid of it. But don't scrap it, because lots of us are still needing parts.

Around these parts, you can find bump trucks for almost any price. And usually, $2500 gets you a running driving truck, and $5,000 will get you a pretty good one. 5,000 and up you start getting into the "restored" and "very good" trucks.

 

you can SINK thousands in a restore and all the time looking for the parts, but on the other hand you can buy a $2500 truck that needs a little and use yours as the parts truck. I myself put almost 10K in a restore. and 3 years later i sold it to one of my good friends for $7,500 but i just like the challange of the build

 

I will agree with the new truck option with an addition. I've let go of too many vehicles I later regretted.
Since you have a family bond with Ruby an option could be to track down a new truck to buy and take a select piece of Ruby to add or graft to the new ride. A little new with a small piece of the old girl added.

 

Mine was in "good condition" when I got it 2 years ago. I stopped counting when I passed $5,000 into it. So financially, it's not worth it to fix ruby. But you could use its parts on a different truck, And make a 2-in-1 that's the best of both.

 

Welcome to FTE

If you decide to get work done, it can add up fast. There's nothing complicated about it, but mechanical parts wear out - brakes, suspension, linkage, machine work - Labor costs have really gone up in the last several years as the cost of doing business has gone up. Paint, bodywork? If ya have to ask... There just won't be anything left that won't need adjustment or repair/replacement by now.

Next, you have to find someone who is both able, and willing, to work on 40+ year old iron. It's not a given anymore. Call around and ask, in a general way, to a few different shops/independents if they work on older stuff, or if they know of someone who will. The old-school independent shops are drying up fast. You'll want to cultivate a good working relationship with somebody even if you buy "new".

 

This is the route I think I may have to head down. Not sure what the "heart" of Ruby would be. The cracked steering wheel, the shredded bench seat with springs that grope your behind, the engine that just never stops but whose battery you have to disconnect otherwise she'll go dead. :S

So if I do go the route of a new body and maybe want to take Ruby's engine along, its a 360 2 barrel carb, what is compatible without any modifications? 390 & 352? I think a 302 requires mods to work right. Ruby is a 4 speed manual, I think 1st would be considered granny, its only used when we hauled horse trailers. Its an H shape with Reverse on the far right. If a new body truck needed a new transmission and I swapped these out what would be compatible? Would I need to stick with a 2wd or can I swap with a 4wd? Ruby is a 1/2 ton, can the engine be swapped with a 3/4 ton?

I'm thinking I need to look for a 1/2 ton or 3/4 ton 2wd 1968-1972 F100 with a 4 speed manual and 360, 352 or 390 engine. Anything else that would be compatible?

I do have a family friend that can swap the engine and parts for me and I can help them, just don't have the garage, lift etc to do on my own anymore.

 

With what you said about the windshield drip rail area and the frame I agree she ought to be retired to parts truck duties. FE's have a specific bell housing pattern. So your idea of 352/360/390 is on the mark. 1967 352 or 1968/72 360 & 390.

 

it is always hard to say which is the best way to go in a situation like yours.. but if you have no way to do alot of the work yourself restoring a old truck can be a losing situation.. if the frame is rusted through and the cab has holes in the roof then i would imagine the floors and cab mounts are not very good either.. buying a good original or restored truck is usually cheaper than paying to get yours rebuilt..i would buy a similar truck in good condition, then keep "ruby" out behind the barn for memories and parts.

 

Yup if to far gone then put it out back. The wild critters would love that old truck having a new homestead for nesting loco rat races the cab.
Orich

 

Live in Pensacola, Fl, as far west as you can go in fla, 5in from alabama border and yes HUMID!!! Truck is from Arizona, now pool girl has a light sheen of green.

 

Would love to see the old gal so post pics if you can.