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I never thought I'd ask a question like this on this site....ever! But here it goes, I bought a $300 1984 silverado 2wd, with a 350, he sold it because it wouldn't always start... He was right, it seemed like after it would get hot it wouldnt even attempt to start, no solenoid click nothing, then after an hour it would start right up... after a couple days of that process, it stopped trying to start altogether, it would click once and then act like the battery was completely drained, ridiculous! I pulled the starter, hooked it up to jumper cables, it kicks out and spins, but that doesn't necessarily mean it's good, right?
GM in their infinite wisdom, put the starter solenoid on top the starter right underneath the exhaust manifold, where it gets cooked to death. There should be a metal heat shield thats supposed to prevent this above the solenoid, if its been removed it could be the problem.
Get a new solenoid.................BTW, I have one of those *********! Chevys myself.
To be honest replace the whole unit. I did a 79 El Camino that wouldnt start when hot it ended up being cheaper to just go with a whole new starter than just replace the starter solenoid. After swaping new starter in never had a problem since then and it whips over quickly hot or cold.
If you cant get the heat sheild check summit they have a starter wrap that velcros around the starter and it reflects heat away from the starter to prolong the life.
GM in their infinite wisdom, put the starter solenoid on top the starter right underneath the exhaust manifold, where it gets cooked to death. There should be a metal heat shield thats supposed to prevent this above the solenoid, if its been removed it could be the problem.
Get a new solenoid.................BTW, I have one of those *********! Chevys myself.
yep, agree with all but the chevy crack. starter heat soak. ver ver bad.
Being a Ford man (which means you are smart) do what most of use would do with a Chevy we own. Put a new high torque starter on it and move the starter relay to the fender shirt.
Summit carries the stuff to do this, though if you have a 1980s Ford relay you are all set if you have some spare parts and time. If you are REALLY smart, you spend the time to move all the fusible links up to the fender where you can test and replace them as needed because in their current location road junk kills the fusible links along with the high heat.
Believe it or not, this less then ideal set-up stems from all the Chevy stuff being located on the horn relay and when it was too much it was moved to the closest biggest current draw thing, the starter relay. I think the same Chevy engineers that decided on the starter relay location decided to put the spark plugs UNDER the exhaust manifold too.