I have yard work needs to be done here also.
But I need to get the chipper running first. The bushings in the
starter motor had dried out and were a but gummy. Cleaned that
up and it not seems to spin much better. Just have to install it and
see if it a go or not.



Sean <BR>

6.0L Tech Folder

 

No technical issues for the yardwork, just got 2 5 yard dumps of compost, now have to weed, clean up and distribute. Got 2 - 3 yards done, so 7-8 to go. Printed all those diagrams off Yahiko, thanks so much. Diagrams are incredibly helpful, as I have found all the wiring colors I need, the fuse panels, relays affected, now it is down to some testing. My auto lamps are working, hi low and fog/driving are all working, still issues with DRL's. Tonight I will check fuses. I think I have an intermittant ground issue on the right headlight, given thats where I have had issues thus far. Another thing I have to look into is the e-brake switch as it turns off the DRL's when in park. Diagrams show me that issue. The dificulty will be checking continuity at the plugs, or voltages. I suppose it could also be the headlamp switch. GOD I hate electrical.....

 

Ok, so two days of driving morning and evening, no blown fuses with the Brite box removed. Got DRLs, low and high beams, and driving lights. Just have to put in my new PIAAs as I do still have a high beam filament out on the passenger side. I did still have a blown DRl fuse under hood day before yesterdaupy, and I think it was my ebrake not being fully off and sending a bad signal. Will have to watch that. The sender for this is a ground signal on the diagram, so that makes sense in terms of what I had issues with. I did also use dielectric grease on both headlight sockets, the grounds on the passenger side inner fender, and the fogs.

 

Did the sockets for the lamps show any heat damage?
They should even not taking the BB into account with
the age. If they did it will only get worse. Heat takes
some of the springiness out of the metal that the connectors
are made from. The looser fit will cause some heating and
as it heats you loose more spring and so on. New high temp
pigtails for lighting are the best solution.




Sean <BR>

6.0L Tech Folder

 

They both have a slightly very light brown around the edges not covered by the overlap of the bulb plug. I can't detect any issues with either plug but I did cover each pin and each hole with dielectric grease for now. I called my local ford dealer and he doesn't have pigtails in stock, but they are $87 each. I think I am going to look at some other places for some upgraded pigtails and plug, especially for the passenger side, where the Brite box was plugged in. Not really hard to solder in and shrink wrap both sides. I have to say, not impressed with the gauge of wire, it's maybe 14 gauge, no wonder our lighting sucks.

 

You can get aftermarket ones for much less and they work fine. In fact if you are thinking of using bulbs that run at higher temps then the ceramic versions are out there.

The gauge of the wire was the reason a lot of us early adopters built our own harnesses before the bright boxes were an available.

The '03 stock wiring is 20ga for grounds, 20ga for low beams and 18 ga for high beams.

 

Wow, it never ceases to amaze me what corners will be cut. Explains why each low beam is only a 10 amp fuse and high beam is a 15 for both lights. DRLs are only a 10 too.

How far into the harness would I have to go to upgrade the whole harness grounds, low and high beams? Thinking 12 gauge for the grounds, and atleast 14 for the low and high bea,pls. If I were to guess I think the BB is 14s, could be 16 though. I was originally getting the full 14.5 volts at the plugs for low and high beams. I might measure when I do the bulb upgrades and see what I am getting for voltage at the plugs.

 

Well a 55w bulb at 14.5v is only drawing 3.8a so the wire has about a 0.25v drop. I think I went with 14ga which has about a 0.04v drop.

That L-N gives you about a 0.6-0.8v betterment over stock as you know. Double check what your getting as close to the bulb as you can.

https://www.facebook.com/104882132926478/photos/a.113757808705577.20662.104882132926478/113757918705566/?type=3&theater

 

I was running 85/125 Hella metal reflector with H4 lamps in
my 1988 Ranger and I built my harness so I could use relays and
fuses for each lamp. Got tired of replacing switches as I went
up in wattage.#14 copper all the way and crimps no soldering.
BTW you will end up breaking more strands with solder do to the
solder wicking into the strands. For the terminals I used the ones that
have heat-shrink and mastic to keep things as dry as they can be.

A crimped spade terminal actually creates a metal-metal colloidal
bond at the surface between the wire and the terminal, and if done right, no gas remains
between the surfaces. This ensures longevity and safety, making this the preferred
mechanism in industrial implementations.



Sean <BR>

6.0L Tech Folder

 

I do agree with your little blue box comments Sean, but that works only if the DIY person uses the proper crimping tool and technique. I have several pro-grade crimpers but even with that I still solder. And I agree with the wicking will cause a hard edge fatigue point, which is really the same as the hard edge of a crimped terminal. So if one solders you need the same level of skill needed for a proper crimp, and the heat shrink should extend far enough past the hard edge to reinforce the wire and taper the bending moment. It really comes down to how well a person feels his crimping ability is going to be to prevent corrosion and voltage drop in the future, especially in the environment of underhood. One thing I wished I had done 15 years ago when I made that harness was to use relay sockets rather then the terminals. While I never had to replace those relays (that will change since I've written this) the sockets would make a changeout easier and the contacts would have been more protected from the elements. But the good thing about those terminals was I could easily add on a diode later to keep both high and low beams on just like "flash to pass" does. You just don't want to do that with the high wattage Hella bulbs like both you and I have used.

The whole wire to terminal debate in audio forums is the same quagmire the we see about oil in automotive forums. Crimp - solder - crimp and solder ...... which type of solder, 60/40, 63/37, Tri-Eutectic, Quad-Eutectic, ......

Personally, I got a large roll of Bob Cardas Quad-Eutectic solder, but I'm nuts.

 

Well I guess I really have to take apart the Brite box and see what went wrong with it. Then I can see if I fix it or use the parts atleast. I sure like the idea of separate power from each battery to each headlight and the higher voltage and better lighting. I have to say, those high beams SUCK wephithout the second low filament and the driving lights still on now I am used to them that way. I don't know if I am into much more wiring work as I am planning on replacing my truck with a 2017 new SD if everything works out.

Thanks for the healthy debate on solder vs crimp. I am still a solder and shrink tube guy round here the salt and calcium chloride really ruins a lot of things quickly.

 

Yeah, once you get used to double beams it's hard to go back. A debate usually kicks in that you're only allowed one beam at a time, but that goes out the window since many HID factory vehicles use a HID low beam and a conventional bulb for highs, and both remain on during high beam usage.

 

Jack for crimping I now use a set of DMC HX4 and really like them.
I also have a set of go/no go gauges for it. I think you would like
my personal crimp kit. It have more than just the HX4 set in it.
I should post a photo of it some day.

As fo crimp/solder I would only do it if it's called for in the design. (Aircraft Background)

Mike when you take the box apart can you take photos and note
any components that were used? I think we are going to find it's
a very simple circuit with no real mystery to it. But you never know
might find some gnomes in there working the levers.



Sean <BR>

6.0L Tech Folder

 

I know you aircraft guys can only crimp. We had an airport in walking distance from the shop and I went to maintenance shop decades ago to get ask them and get some training on what they did so we could improve our auto work. A great bunch of guys. I'm not even sure what brands I got in the toolbox but I remember they were over $100 back them. Good tools are worth the money though.

I understand about doing it per design, but when I'm doing the design I have a little more freedom. . Plus I'm just using the solder as a sealer, not from a mechanical or electrical perspective. And I'm too ornery to change.

 

For sealing I like heat shrink with the mastic. Do not get that stuff on
your fingers when hot. It is even more sticky than the hot glue can be.
Also if you don't mind having cannon plugs. You can have the seal in the
plug with strain relief to boot.

If you ever want to kill your budget take a look here >>> Daniels Manufacturing Corporation
DMC Tools are some of the Best IMHO. They do cost money like any good tool.

Also they make tools for the Deutsch connectors and the Delphi Weather Pack
that you see in automotive along with other places.


Sean <BR>

6.0L Tech Folder