Had to reorder my brightbox, order didnt go through, using dfuser this time. I was succesful in getting a coolant filter kit from him before.

 

Finished brite box install. super easy and functional. Will try tonight. Also reaimed headlights, added H13 PIAA bulbs, and replaced my coolant filter bracket. Thanks dfuser for the replacement. Dfuser now at dieselstorm dot com. Excellent service.

 

Has anyone here used the "Britebox" in conjunction with the "Smart Relay Harness" that Innova Design sells?

I was told the Britebox will allow you to have your lowbeams, highbeams and driving lights all on at the same time when the highbeam switch is engaged, but the harness will actually make the lights brighter by delivering more juice through better wire direct from the batteries. Can anyone confirm if it gets too hot with these 2 items working together? Do the bulbs burn out quite a bit quicker?

 

Yes. On high beam it is powering both hiand low beam filaments in the headlight bulb at once as well as keeping the driving lights on. It works good, no issue since install. I do still want some extra driving lights for the long night drives on our remote roads up here.

 

Have brite boxes on both motorhome & P/U the p/u has the FLC.
I love the product and the extra candels it provides.
Just a note of caution extended use several hours at a time can cause the temps inside the lamp box to climb enough to slightly melt the top center of the box & let the bulb reflector fall off on the pickups. Mine did this on the right side left side did not fall but it is deformed from the heat. This summer while on our annual trip to my brothers in cali. we left in the envening drove all night. Noticed it had fallen off the following day at a fuel stop while doing a walk around. I beleive the install instructions also warn of replacing OEM bulbs with higher wattage bulbs for this reason.
Have not checked to see if previous owner changed them out.
Like I said great resultes just be carefull during constant opperation like 1-2 hours straight

 

Hi Bill. You mention "FLC" in your comments.... is this the harness used in conjunction with the Britebox? The fellow I spoke with at Innova said some folks were having extremely short lifespans out of their headlight bulbs when using the high voltage harness in conjunction with the Britebox. I am wondering if it is a known problem with the Fords or if it is a different manufacturer that is having the problems. He said Innova recommends using one or the other but not using both.... because with the highs and lows being turned on at the same time there is already an increase in heat... and by adding extra voltage to the bulbs to make the lights brighter he said it can shorten the bulbs lifespan to only 2 hours in some cases!

I would love to have both of these items hooked up at the same time and cash in on the extra light but I am not sure it will work for our applications.

I've hit one Bambi already due to the crap lighting on my truck and I do not want to hit another! lol

 

I have been using a "brightbox" for several years now and all is well.

The "FLC" designation stands for "Fog Light Control"... and only is needed if one's truck has the fog light option or if they wanted to add additional lights (that would match the connector of the OEM fog lights).

Personally, I have had no issues and installed it as it was intended and designed. I use the OEM wattage bulbs and just prefer to use Sylvania Silverstars or whatever their high-end "brighter/white light" bulb is... but it is still the OEM size and wattage.

Since it does create more heat when running both the high beams and low beams at the same time, I try not to run them constantly over and over unless I really need too for safety's sake.... however, I have run them for hours on back roads in the summer and never melted anything .

No extra wattage will flow from the bright box to the bulbs nor will it make the bulbs burn any brighter due to having a direct battery connection... everything will "burn" at their correct and intended wattage.

 

FLC is fog light control. There is a different model that allows fogs to stay on high or low beam.

 

Resurecting after 5 years of use, last Fall, This spring, lost headlight bulbs H13 PIA Extreme's. And last night i had a problem with foglight fuse, low beam fuse and hi beam fuses. All appears corrected since un-powering the Brite Box at the fuse on passenger battery but I will keep an eye out. I have my original sylverstar headlight bulbs back in. Instead of 9145 driving lights, I am running PIAA Extreme 9005 High Beam 65 watts. [Remember its cold up here and running both headlights and driving higher wattage doesnt melt anything, unlike the lower 48 where heat may be more an issue]

 

New headlight bulb, old original H13 high beam failed, had to take out Brite box. Now I am back to stock and need a new set of PIA extreme H13s. I had to pull the Brite box off, couldn't get it to work, kept blowing low beam fuse on pass side and then high beam. So back to stock for now. I have it on the bench, will try and take it apart and see if it's just a relay inside. Looks like it's sealed pretty good.

 

Might want to check the grounds and lamp connectors for the BB.
I bet your going to find that they are turning brown.



Sean <BR>

6.0L Tech Folder

 

Hey, so far all wiring and housings look fine. I think when I burned out the low beam with the BB installed it also did something inside the BB. All wires and connectors appear fine with my reading glasses on and using a flashlight. I think the relay went inside the BB due to the low beam originally. I don't know if my old headlight which is original had already lost the high beam or if that was coincidental with install earlier this spring. I will see if I can get back dpsome new H13 PIAA extreme, but I am still going to really miss my BB in night driving. I am thinking of trading next spring so I doubt I will buy another BB one.

The FLC is the same As driving light control. It is for the trucks with driving lights in addition to the high low beam housing. Means you run all three with high beams on. Alas I have my BB on the workbench. I did buy new PIAA extreme headlight bulbs. Am waiting to see what happens for a bit before putting them in. As of last night DRLs appear to be out now. I am going to have to sprout some testing, checking more fuses as for the DRLs they are under the hood, not the box under the steering wheel in the cab.

 

Ok, I think I am in need of some advice. While i still had the bright box connected I lost hi beam passenger side, then on the PIAA bulb, then I put back my stock bulb, and I lost low beam. Both times, the according fuse went. I took out the BB and then I lost hi beam, blew said fuse, then even though replaced fuse, lost DRL fuse under hood and lost all DRLs but the low and hi fuses didn't die and fog lights are still working. So, replaced all fuses and away I go, lost same low beam passenger side dedicated fuse. Replaced and I have all lights. In the daylight I think both headlight plugs look a touch browned over the grey.

So here is the question, and I think Yahiko is pointing me in the right direction, grounds in particular, more specifically the ground on the passenger headlight harness? Wires look fine, what do you al recommend for how to test the wiring? I can check ohms or continuity, but from where to where to adequately test this side of harness, and I am assuming the black middle wire in the plug is the ground? Yahiko if you have a diagram of pass side headlight and fog light circuits it would really help. I don't want to put into the new PIAA bulbs until I have this fixed.

 

Got some PDFs for you,

Let me know if you need any others.

Sean <BR>

6.0L Tech Folder

 

Awesome thanks so much Yahiko. This will be a weekday project in the evenings. Got a big yard job today.