BriteBox installation
#16
01-09-2011, 04:07 AM
I am sure there is a way to do it Piolet. You may have to add a couple of relays in the circuit, but that should be easy. I hate electrical issues / projects, so I will pass on telling you how to do it - I am prone to way too many mistakes in that area!
As to the extra heat - this mod (IMO) has no effect on the plastic lenses. When you think about the amount of time the average person spends driving at night, it is a SMALL percentage. Most of the time you have a cool breeze flowing across the lenses also (at least while the vehice is moving). It just isn't an issue.
As to the extra heat - this mod (IMO) has no effect on the plastic lenses. When you think about the amount of time the average person spends driving at night, it is a SMALL percentage. Most of the time you have a cool breeze flowing across the lenses also (at least while the vehice is moving). It just isn't an issue.
#17
01-09-2011, 10:02 AM
It's ok. 'Why' is not a silly question. We all should be able to ask any question we feel may add to our understanding of our trucks or their systems. 
...'The function of this mod is to allow your normal headlights to be on at the same time as your highbeams. For an extra $30.78 you can add the FLC (fog light control unit) which also allows your factory fogs to be on too.' ...
Beach, I see you have this listed as a mod on your truck so maybe they've changed the basics of the product since you purchased it. The way they have it listed now is what I was refering to. I just came across this product recently.
What I was wondering is could I revert back to just my normal high-beams on when I want them on, and not have the low-beams on too. That's what I was hoping a switch could accomplish, rather then getting out of the truck and unplugging something under the hood.
My understanding of vehicle electrics is currently limited ... no pun intended. I'm working on it.
But for where I live and the commute I have:
I leave at 4:30-5am.
I do 40 miles & just under 1 hour on country roads (which is where I'd like ALL my lights on). Then I hit the highways and main roads where I'm driving 70 miles for just under 1 hour (where I'd like the normal high-beams only)
By the way ... I don't have to do this every day of the work week, thank God!!
Since I've thought about buying this I've experimented by holding the lever to manually hold the low-beams on with the high-beams & I've concluded that I'd love this functionality on the back roads where I'm going slower, but I'm not crazy about it on the highways. For me there's too much light up front when I'm doing 75+mph. There seems to be too much light coming back in which ultimately reduces my ability to see far out infront of me. I even dim my CB and dash lights when I drive at night. That's just me. Your mileage may vary.
If it's possible great. If not, well okay. Thanks.
...'The function of this mod is to allow your normal headlights to be on at the same time as your highbeams. For an extra $30.78 you can add the FLC (fog light control unit) which also allows your factory fogs to be on too.' ...
Beach, I see you have this listed as a mod on your truck so maybe they've changed the basics of the product since you purchased it. The way they have it listed now is what I was refering to. I just came across this product recently.
What I was wondering is could I revert back to just my normal high-beams on when I want them on, and not have the low-beams on too. That's what I was hoping a switch could accomplish, rather then getting out of the truck and unplugging something under the hood.
My understanding of vehicle electrics is currently limited ... no pun intended. I'm working on it.
But for where I live and the commute I have:
I leave at 4:30-5am.
I do 40 miles & just under 1 hour on country roads (which is where I'd like ALL my lights on). Then I hit the highways and main roads where I'm driving 70 miles for just under 1 hour (where I'd like the normal high-beams only)
By the way ... I don't have to do this every day of the work week, thank God!!
Since I've thought about buying this I've experimented by holding the lever to manually hold the low-beams on with the high-beams & I've concluded that I'd love this functionality on the back roads where I'm going slower, but I'm not crazy about it on the highways. For me there's too much light up front when I'm doing 75+mph. There seems to be too much light coming back in which ultimately reduces my ability to see far out infront of me. I even dim my CB and dash lights when I drive at night. That's just me. Your mileage may vary.
If it's possible great. If not, well okay. Thanks.
The point is that the "Bright Box" is a simple, low cost way to have both high and low beams.. and fog lights (if you have them)... and yes, you are correct, my mistake above... for when you need extra light.
I have been using the Bright Box mod for several years and have yet to replace a headlamp lens/cover or bulb. I also use Silvania Silver Star bulbs for maximum lighting... but they have since come out with a new bulb with greater output.
If you have fogs, those you can turn manually... so that is not an issue.
As far as the high and low beams... that is a "take it or leave it" option when using the "Bright Box" mod due to how it is wired and plugged in. The only other option is to forget the Bright box mod and add your own seperate driving lights hooked up to your up-fitter switches, so you can controll them manually.
I like the Bright Box due to the "Plug & Play" simplicity and the low cost... and for me, it gave the "high beam reach" I like and expect, along with the "low beam" close in light.
Your right, no question is silly.... but I guess that I get frustrated that over the years everyone tries to overthink or re-engineer everything... when the "Bright-Box" does a simple job very well for a relatively low cost. If you want "up-fitter" control, add seperate driving lights... which of course adds greater costs, more time and you have to find the space to add the driving lights to the front end of your truck.
The pictures I posted earlier in this thread is so one could remove the Bright Box if it failed or you desired to return it to stock for some reason... and it took allof 30 minutes to install if memory serves me correctly.
Again, sorry.
#18
01-09-2011, 10:12 AM
I just ordered the bright box plus TLC, I will wait till I get the package and see if my upfitter 1 can be the supply which would allow this to be on or off. Upfitter 1 and 2 are 30 amp curcuits using 10 ga wire so I would imagine this would work fine. But, always buts, maybe unnecessary like Beachbum says. I will likely also upgrade to Sylvania lights at the same time, I am noticing lighting in our long nights more and more an issue.
#19
01-09-2011, 10:20 AM
I just ordered the bright box plus TLC, I will wait till I get the package and see if my upfitter 1 can be the supply which would allow this to be on or off. Upfitter 1 and 2 are 30 amp curcuits using 10 ga wire so I would imagine this would work fine. But, always buts, maybe unnecessary like Beachbum says. I will likely also upgrade to Sylvania lights at the same time, I am noticing lighting in our long nights more and more an issue.
All I do is either turn my headlight on or they come on automatically when dark... the lows work as normall.. when I flick the highbeams on... the fogs stay on as do the low beams... it is all seamless.
I guess the question would be... what does hooking the "power connection" for the Bright Box to an upfitter switch do... and what control does it allow or not allow????
Have never read (on any forum site) of anyone even asking or desiring this kind of "control" with an upfitter switch... so I will be eager to learn myself and how it works and the benefits if any... and if benefit is really found?
Thanks,
#20
01-09-2011, 10:58 AM
#22
01-09-2011, 11:28 AM
Here is link to the Bright Box Website:
Innova Design & Distributing, Inc. - The Brite Box, Bulbzilla / Fogzilla, Diesel Turbo Lifesaver, Eclipse Sun Shade
Applications and installation instructions are linked/shown along the left hand side of the page above.
I don't remember how much I paid... but it has been a few years. I do have the fog light control function since I have themon my truck... and I wanted max lighting available. I guess do some internet searching to see who has the lowest pricing available and negotiate your best deal?
It works as advertised and has never failed me yet!!!
Innova Design & Distributing, Inc. - The Brite Box, Bulbzilla / Fogzilla, Diesel Turbo Lifesaver, Eclipse Sun Shade
Applications and installation instructions are linked/shown along the left hand side of the page above.
I don't remember how much I paid... but it has been a few years. I do have the fog light control function since I have themon my truck... and I wanted max lighting available. I guess do some internet searching to see who has the lowest pricing available and negotiate your best deal?
It works as advertised and has never failed me yet!!!
#24
01-09-2011, 11:36 AM
#28
01-09-2011, 01:03 PM
Here are a couple links to discussion on this:
Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
budget brite box - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
also:
APC Super Upgrade Harness and BrightBox Mod
Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
budget brite box - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
also:
APC Super Upgrade Harness and BrightBox Mod
#29
01-09-2011, 01:11 PM
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All the Britebox does is use a relay to supply power to the low beams and fog lights. It does do it seamlessly by using the power from the high beams to active the relay. Therefore, it is entirely possible to supply the power to the low beams and the fog lights from the upfitter switches. The low beams are 55-watt bulbs X2 is equal to 110 watts of power. My Silverstar 9145’s fog lights are 45-watt bulbs, X2 is 90 watts of power. Total power through the upfitter switch is 200 watts, divide this by 12vdc equals 16.6 amps. As long as you use the 30-amp upfitter switch it will more then cover it. If you wanted to do it just splice a hot wire into the low beams and fog lamps from the upfitter switch. Turn the upfitter switch on. Then when you hit high beams they will come on, the low beams and fog lamps will stay on from the upfitter switch. Now the draw back……. You will never be able to run just the low beams or just the fog lamps. They will be all or none and this could burn out the wiring somewhere else in the truck unless you add a diode on each leg of the power to the low beams and fog lamps. If you are ok with the all or none just leave the upfitter switch on and you would never have a problem.
#30
01-09-2011, 02:50 PM
All the Britebox does is use a relay to supply power to the low beams and fog lights. It does do it seamlessly by using the power from the high beams to active the relay. Therefore, it is entirely possible to supply the power to the low beams and the fog lights from the upfitter switches. The low beams are 55-watt bulbs X2 is equal to 110 watts of power. My Silverstar 9145’s fog lights are 45-watt bulbs, X2 is 90 watts of power. Total power through the upfitter switch is 200 watts, divide this by 12vdc equals 16.6 amps. As long as you use the 30-amp upfitter switch it will more then cover it. If you wanted to do it just splice a hot wire into the low beams and fog lamps from the upfitter switch. Turn the upfitter switch on. Then when you hit high beams they will come on, the low beams and fog lamps will stay on from the upfitter switch. Now the draw back……. You will never be able to run just the low beams or just the fog lamps. They will be all or none and this could burn out the wiring somewhere else in the truck unless you add a diode on each leg of the power to the low beams and fog lamps. If you are ok with the all or none just leave the upfitter switch on and you would never have a problem.
Clean and easy to install... and the $100 or so... what the heck... clean and easy install and I can return to stock if needed. No one ever said owning a diesel was cheap... becuase it is not... but a $100 was within my budget for this mod to be within my matmatical skill set (which is zero) and my attention span which is 30 minutes... which is what it took to open the box and install.