My brother is contemplating turning his 351w into a 427 stroker in his '69 mustang. Has anyone ever done this on this site before? How did it work? Are you happy with it? Any information would be great.

 

Good info here:

http://www.fordmuscle.com/forums/str...7-stroker.html

427 is a magic number, but the combo that works for that would be a 4.125" bore with a 4" stoke.

A stock block will not take the .125 over bore.

Using a 4.030" bore and 4.1 stroker, which might be the max for a stock block, not sure, you get a 418. I doubt you can tell the difference in power output in most applications.

http://www.csgnetwork.com/cubicinchdispcalc.html

Lists up to 4.25 stroke:

http://www.eaglerod.com/

Up to 4.1:

http://www.scatcrankshafts.com/

http://www.dartheads.com/products/en...s/ford-blocks/

 

Yeah, does he want 427 because of the number? Most people do a 408w and they are known to be reliable from what I've read. Don't have experience on that, though.

 

sbftech.com

 

the 427 is like the 347 on a 302, its a really big money sink. the 347 has side loading of the walls, so does the 427. the block needs to be gutted to accept the bore and stroke. i would think it would crack, hit water jackets or make an oval out of the cylinder wall. the 331 and 408 are more reliable if you want a longer stroke. for a truck engine the 427 would be useful, lots of torque at a low(er) rpm and would last longer. for racing try the 408 since it can spin tighter more reliably. i know theres some 351W's stroked to 454 ci but dont last long.

 

The 347 and 427 are just as reliable as anything else. The rod ratio stuff is total BS. No one ever complains about the chevy big blocks or some Honda 4 cylinders with even worse rod ratios. The 427 can be built in a stock block but you have to know what your doing. The crank weights have to be ground down to not hit the camshaft.

 

We've never gone that big on a stock block, because cylinder wall thickness, which makes them more prone to cracking, becomes an issue. With the extra machining and clearancing on both the block, rods (haven't had a problem with the Scat rods with cap screws yet, but have had to grind on the Eagle rod bolts to clear), and cutting down the counterweights on the crank, it only makes sense to step up to a Dart block, which has no problem with the larger bore, and if you want to go really big, is available with a raised cam tunnel.

Pete

 

Talk to the guys at cost high performance they can answer all your questions they sell them all day long.