Quick's Engine Swap Thread!
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,777
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From: Buckingham, IA
Since you are removing the injectors anyway, you could remove them before you remove the engine which would allow the motor to turn over more easily. You have already removed most of the stuff that would make the injector removal a pain anyway.
Super Moderator
Joined: May 2004
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From: Central Coast of CA
....I think....not completely sure....can't remember if I do....
Stewart
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,510
Likes: 7
From: Anchorage, AK
I meant fan. I didn't think to take it off when I still had the fan on, so now its just spinning freely. I know how to get the water pump!
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,510
Likes: 7
From: Anchorage, AK
Here you go Alex. click here. Good luck.
Thanks, that link still helps me out!
Now I do have a question about the transmission removal.
On a manual, I would have the input shaft holding the trans to the engine, so it wouldn't nessesarily fall when unbolted. I would actually have to pull it back a bit.
I haven't gotten the cover off the transmission yet since one of the bolts is rounded. But just to help forecast issues, when I unhook the bellhousing and the torque converter, will the transmission will it still hold itself up? Can I leave the back end hooked to the x-member?
I was just going to put a jack under it while swapping the engines.
Do I need to swap the exhaust manifolds? If so it will be tons easier outside.
Anyone have a good link for torque specs on relevant bolts? Torque converter etc etc?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 920
Likes: 7
From: Mazon, IL
Yeah, hopefully someone here has a genius idea for getting the fan off. I bought a "chain wrench" which looks like a pair of vise grips with a bicycle chain on it. It's like a strap wrench, but way stronger. Sorry, I didn't even think about it when you were looking for a special tool list. Basically, if I remember correctly, you clamp the chain wrench around the pulley and just spin the fan off. i got it at autozone, though apparently you don't have that option. Perhaps that shop in town will have one to lend you. A lot of guys hate to loan tools because they seem to never make it back, so if you have to, offer up some collateral. You'll only need it for a few minutes.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,510
Likes: 7
From: Anchorage, AK
Yeah, hopefully someone here has a genius idea for getting the fan off. I bought a "chain wrench" which looks like a pair of vise grips with a bicycle chain on it. It's like a strap wrench, but way stronger. Sorry, I didn't even think about it when you were looking for a special tool list. Basically, if I remember correctly, you clamp the chain wrench around the pulley and just spin the fan off. i got it at autozone, though apparently you don't have that option. Perhaps that shop in town will have one to lend you. A lot of guys hate to loan tools because they seem to never make it back, so if you have to, offer up some collateral. You'll only need it for a few minutes.
Thread Starter
|
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,510
Likes: 7
From: Anchorage, AK
Thanks, that link still helps me out!
Now I do have a question about the transmission removal.
On a manual, I would have the input shaft holding the trans to the engine, so it wouldn't nessesarily fall when unbolted. I would actually have to pull it back a bit.
I haven't gotten the cover off the transmission yet since one of the bolts is rounded. But just to help forecast issues, when I unhook the bellhousing and the torque converter, will the transmission will it still hold itself up? Can I leave the back end hooked to the x-member?
I was just going to put a jack under it while swapping the engines.
Do I need to swap the exhaust manifolds? If so it will be tons easier outside.
Anyone have a good link for torque specs on relevant bolts? Torque converter etc etc?
Now I do have a question about the transmission removal.
On a manual, I would have the input shaft holding the trans to the engine, so it wouldn't nessesarily fall when unbolted. I would actually have to pull it back a bit.
I haven't gotten the cover off the transmission yet since one of the bolts is rounded. But just to help forecast issues, when I unhook the bellhousing and the torque converter, will the transmission will it still hold itself up? Can I leave the back end hooked to the x-member?
I was just going to put a jack under it while swapping the engines.
Do I need to swap the exhaust manifolds? If so it will be tons easier outside.
Anyone have a good link for torque specs on relevant bolts? Torque converter etc etc?
I checked the link in the basic info thread and didn't find any info for torque specs on the torque converter.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,510
Likes: 7
From: Anchorage, AK
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,510
Likes: 7
From: Anchorage, AK
Thanks Mark, anyone know of a step by step on removing the transmission? I know exactly how the basic process works, but seeing someone else's project pictures might give me a better idea of what to expect.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 337
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From: West cental Texas
On my automatic I removed it after i got the engine out. I just yanked the TC bolts and the bell housing bolts, during the engine removal, yanked all the connectors and two bolts on the x-member. You will need something to hold up the transmission once the engine is free. It is only supported by the x-member and the bell housing. spare jack works to start then jackstands help after that. Once the engine was out I just used two bolts with nuts through bell housing and chains on the engine hoist then yanked it straight out the front after disconnecting everything. Course it needed a jack on the rear to lift it from x-member.
Torque specs......
TC bolts....26ft lbs.
Bellhousing bolts.....45 ft lbs. at least according to my books.
I too also had problems with the fan. Nothing a woble joint and extensions didn't solve. I had to yank the water pump, pulley and fan as one unit. I just ordered a new pump and I'll extract the remaining pieces once it's here.
Chad
Torque specs......
TC bolts....26ft lbs.
Bellhousing bolts.....45 ft lbs. at least according to my books.
I too also had problems with the fan. Nothing a woble joint and extensions didn't solve. I had to yank the water pump, pulley and fan as one unit. I just ordered a new pump and I'll extract the remaining pieces once it's here.
Chad
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,777
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From: Buckingham, IA
Alex, I have seen other threads showing the transmission being held up by 2x4s placed between the frame rails. One was cut to a specific length to fit and other short pieces were used to space the tranny up to normal height. I don't remember how much room there would be under the tranny but this might help.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 920
Likes: 7
From: Mazon, IL
From what I'm understanding, you don't want to actually pull the trans out. You just want to seperate it from the engine. Which should be fairly easy. Like said earlier, the trans hookup it basically simple. The main body or bellhousing is bolted to the back or the engine and the torque converter is bolted to the flywheel. The only other thing that should be holding them together from what i've read would be the bolt in the back of the head where the ground wire bolts on. That bolt apparently also mounts the bracket for the trans dipstick tube. And support it like others have said. 2x4s or straps. I'm also dreading pulling my engine, but the trans issue to me seems like a piece of cake. I realize you probably feel like you're in over you're head, but it looks like you're doing fine so far. And for the record, that rubber strap wrench most likely won't be strong enough to pull that fan off, but I'm sure once you pull off the whole pump and fan together the guy at the local shop should be cool enough to pull the fan off for you.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,510
Likes: 7
From: Anchorage, AK
Thanks for the description. I was sort of under the impression that I could leave it attached at the X-member and then just support the bellhousing with a jack when I pull the engine. I do have two ratchet straps I was going to use so that the bellhousing end could swing freely when I pulled the engine. I can then support it with a jack until I get the new motor in. Thoughts?Thanks for your continued help guys!Alex
On my automatic I removed it after i got the engine out. I just yanked the TC bolts and the bell housing bolts, during the engine removal, yanked all the connectors and two bolts on the x-member. You will need something to hold up the transmission once the engine is free. It is only supported by the x-member and the bell housing. spare jack works to start then jackstands help after that. Once the engine was out I just used two bolts with nuts through bell housing and chains on the engine hoist then yanked it straight out the front after disconnecting everything. Course it needed a jack on the rear to lift it from x-member.
Torque specs......
TC bolts....26ft lbs.
Bellhousing bolts.....45 ft lbs. at least according to my books.
I too also had problems with the fan. Nothing a woble joint and extensions didn't solve. I had to yank the water pump, pulley and fan as one unit. I just ordered a new pump and I'll extract the remaining pieces once it's here.
Chad
Torque specs......
TC bolts....26ft lbs.
Bellhousing bolts.....45 ft lbs. at least according to my books.
I too also had problems with the fan. Nothing a woble joint and extensions didn't solve. I had to yank the water pump, pulley and fan as one unit. I just ordered a new pump and I'll extract the remaining pieces once it's here.
Chad