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Old Jul 8, 2009 | 05:35 PM
  #61  
strokersace's Avatar
strokersace
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From: Hutchinson, KS
Originally Posted by Izzy351
Just remember that you start playing with big injectors & an H2E, you'll be needed head studs & maybe fire rings to go along with it. That's about where you start floating the heads off the deck. You start playing over 40psi and you're looking at BIG $$$ upgrades for the block. The H2E is waaay overkill here. Let's be realistic people.

EDIT: Is his even a forged rod engine? LOL... Might want to start there before looking at 60psi turbos. LOL

It's an '01, so it's a crapshoot as for as rods. He'll have to check the inspection hole and let us know. Fire rings won't be necessary if he's going to be in the 500 hp range and a large stage 2 or small/medium hybrid will get him there. The only reason I did headstuds was becaust I had the motor on a stand, otherwise I wouldn't have done them. And I was told by quite a few HIGH hp guys that build and own them that they weren't necessary but a "why not" while I had access.

So yeah, if he's going to be running a turbo at it's max ALL THE TIME, then he's going to be having big bucks in an engine!! But realistically he's not. The h2e is fully capable of running very efficiently at lower boost number's than it's max potential as are most turbos. And yes you want the turbo that will perform the best with your mods. As in the statement he copied and posted about the h2e, there is a direct relationship between backpressure and boost. And even though he might never get to 60 psi, you can't ignore the efficiency of a turbo in relation to back pressure/boost ratios it creates. IMHO- the h2e is going to be more efficient all across the power band with nearly a 1:1 ratio than any of the other drop-in turbos mentioned yet. So wouldn't it make sense to have a turbo that's capable of performing with very little mods as well as heavily modded?

So lets be realistic... the truck I mentioned earlier has hypermax stage 2 single shots w/ 100% nozzles, BTS dual hpop, stock ford all aluminum intercooler, modified h2e turbo, BTS trans, H-11 headstuds, stock rings, stock valve springs, stock pushrods, and stock forged connecting rods. It's right at 525 rwhp. In the 1/4 mile his boost peaked at 37.5psi and egt's peaked at 1250. I say peaked because he's got one of Dave @ BD Power's X-Monitor that has the peak recall option. I saw the numbers first hand. So I guess Dave can elaborage on if his digital gauge is accurate or not!! And besides, aren't you going to be seeing higher than normal spikes during a drag run than most other times?

And of course he's going to need to be upgrading his clutch setup when he starts playing with more hp...
 
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Old Jul 8, 2009 | 06:50 PM
  #62  
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Izzy351
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I'm glad you mentioned back pressure. I can now monitor mine as well, and my van turbo is sitting right at 1:1. Most I've seen is about 28psi (and I don't watch it all the time), but I know right now with the stock sticks pushing it, I'm seeing about 28-30psi out of it. So, yes there are apparently other options out there with lower back pressure that stock!

You can try to talk the guy into an H2E, and if he has money to burn then great! But even a van turbo is way overkill on stock sticks, IMHO. Put a 1.0 exh housing on the stock turbo, maybe the ATS if surge is a big issue, and you're done. Then if he decides to go with injectors in the future, the 38r/H2E/BD will still be out there. Sorry, but on a stock engine, a $2400 turbo just isn't justifiable.

I've said me peace here. Cheers!!!
 
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Old Jul 8, 2009 | 07:11 PM
  #63  
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strokersace
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From: Hutchinson, KS
Originally Posted by Izzy351
I'm glad you mentioned back pressure. I can now monitor mine as well, and my van turbo is sitting right at 1:1. Most I've seen is about 28psi (and I don't watch it all the time), but I know right now with the stock sticks pushing it, I'm seeing about 28-30psi out of it. So, yes there are apparently other options out there with lower back pressure that stock!

You can try to talk the guy into an H2E, and if he has money to burn then great! But even a van turbo is way overkill on stock sticks, IMHO. Put a 1.0 exh housing on the stock turbo, maybe the ATS if surge is a big issue, and you're done. Then if he decides to go with injectors in the future, the 38r/H2E/BD will still be out there. Sorry, but on a stock engine, a $2400 turbo just isn't justifiable.

I've said me peace here. Cheers!!!
That's good to know about the van cause I'm running the exact same setup you are for a turbo. You must have finally gotten the scangauge to fill your last hole on the pillar???

I appologize if I come across as talking him into an h2e. I was just trying to compare it apples to apples and to let him know that it's a viable option if he so choses.

The crappy part about any of these turbos in the high cost. That was why I went with the van turbo setup just like yours. At the time I still had the pmr motor in and never expected to go over stage 1 injectors or 400 hp. And at the time I only wanted to do a turbo once so the van it was. Since I landed a deal on a wrecked truck with forged rods, I decided to run it which opened me up to some higher hp potentials. Now with the stage 2's I now have, it's very evident that the van turbo isn't going to keep up. So that's the only reason why another turbo is in my future.

I think you are 100% right in that if someone plans on staying with stock injectors and will never upgrade, then a 1.0 turbine housing and WW/ported housing on the stock turbo is the way to go.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2009 | 07:36 PM
  #64  
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Yep. Got the Termy Scan Gauge...

VERY nice piece, well worth the $269:
 
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Old Jul 8, 2009 | 08:18 PM
  #65  
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I do plan on doing injectors at some point, but not right away. Just so everyone is clear, the use of this truck is to keep it driveable for normal use and tow, but I would like to be able to wake it up a little every once and a while. I am not building a drag truck, or a mud truck, I just want to wake it up as much as reasonably safe, but make the most logical diecisions when it comes to my purchases.
According to the Serial Numbers on the motor, it does sit right in the middle of the numbers that were Forged Rods. I have never pulled the inspection plate to check.

My truck is pretty sharp looking, and I want to keep it that way. I do on occasion tow close to 10k and would like to be able to step it up a little more on hills. I do also want to be able to go out and "PLAY" a little when driving empty. It see's very little offroad time (with the exception of my once a year Moose Hunting trip). I want to be able to tune it down and maintain a certain amount of economy when required if at all possible. (I figure this will require some tuner mods from Jody).

This truck has just under 120,000 miles on it, so motor is still strong and in good shape. I have upgraded the exhaust, and recently put in the 450hp Southbend clutch in anticipation of "Waking it up..." a little.
I have looked at injectors and am told I need to be careful as I can blow the motor pretty easy without other more MAJOR internal Mods (Rods, Rings, Studs etc...)

I do still have a stock HPOP and didn't plan on upgrading it any time soon.
I also considered just buying a kit to re-do my injectors myself, but all of this said, I just want to get the RIGHT turbo for this application, and squeeze as much out of this upgrade as possible.

BTW, I do see over 1200 degrees of EGT if I am not careful, even in the 60hp tow tune on my DP tuner (while towing).
 
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Old Jul 8, 2009 | 08:28 PM
  #66  
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Maybe I should just sell my truck and go buy this one, seems to have all the fun stuff done to it...

http://vancouver.en.craigslist.ca/cto/1260440230.html
 
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Old Jul 8, 2009 | 08:48 PM
  #67  
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Okay, then with forged, you can go a bit above 400. Some swear 500 is okay, but you really need to stay on top of the tuning at that point. Several forged motors have bent/broke rods in the low-mid 400s, so keep that in mind.

With that said, a van turbo or 38r is where you want to go then. Your goals are about the same as mine, but I have to be even more careful with my PMRs. You can get into a van turbo for about $900ish with an ATS housing, depending on what kind of deal you get. You know what the 38r runs. Pick one and go for it -- both will support 400+ HP, and both have their pluses & minuses.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2009 | 08:48 PM
  #68  
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Man just get a 38R and some Hybrids down the road and have fun, you have the other needed mods. You want need big oil or any thing else to be at 400+ hp. I do know you can spend more and get more but this is a great set up. Just my and a lot of others .02
 
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Old Jul 8, 2009 | 10:04 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by Izzy351
Okay, then with forged, you can go a bit above 400. Some swear 500 is okay, but you really need to stay on top of the tuning at that point. Several forged motors have bent/broke rods in the low-mid 400s, so keep that in mind.

With that said, a van turbo or 38r is where you want to go then. Your goals are about the same as mine, but I have to be even more careful with my PMRs. You can get into a van turbo for about $900ish with an ATS housing, depending on what kind of deal you get. You know what the 38r runs. Pick one and go for it -- both will support 400+ HP, and both have their pluses & minuses.
38R seems to be where my mind is going... But, now that the Van Turbo has come into it, what will it do for me? (Half the price is it half the performance increase?) How does the Van Turbo compare to the 38R?
 
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Old Jul 8, 2009 | 10:09 PM
  #70  
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H2e... Stock injectors, great,
H2e... Stage 2 injectors, great
H2e... Hybrids injectors, great
H2e... B code injectors, great...

Hummmmmm

Cheap to rebuild, tough, modable, good towing turbo.

Negitives....

Hummmmmmm
 
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Old Jul 8, 2009 | 10:18 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by fordzilla01
38R seems to be where my mind is going... But, now that the Van Turbo has come into it, what will it do for me? (Half the price is it half the performance increase?) How does the Van Turbo compare to the 38R?
To tell you the truth its a very good turbo (Van Turbo) But not quite what the 38R is go back and read your entire post and you will see some of the differences.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2009 | 10:23 PM
  #72  
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Seems like the H2e is an all around great turbo to use, me and a few here were lucky to get a deal on our 38R's and we jumped on it. There's some deals out there, just got to look. I,m not going gung ho on my truck either, at least I think i,m not but some hybrids and proper tuning and a few other mods and I'll be where I want to be..
 
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Old Jul 8, 2009 | 10:26 PM
  #73  
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FYI... my second motor had Forged rods, and there just fine... The block on the other hand, cracked up the #2 and #4 mains...

There is no hp line that is safe. Mod or dont, just starting it in the morning it can blow up...
 
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Old Jul 8, 2009 | 10:34 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by CSIPSD
FYI... my second motor had Forged rods, and there just fine... The block on the other hand, cracked up the #2 and #4 mains...

There is no hp line that is safe. Mod or dont, just starting it in the morning it can blow up...
Is this directed at me?? I understand the possibilties, just taking slow and doing it right, and even then, kaboom, but i,m having fun..Not busting on anybody that goes all out..
 
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Old Jul 8, 2009 | 10:38 PM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by fordzilla01
38R seems to be where my mind is going... But, now that the Van Turbo has come into it, what will it do for me? (Half the price is it half the performance increase?) How does the Van Turbo compare to the 38R?
The Van Turbo isn't half but it isn't going to spool as fast. It will help keep the EGT's low and provide good pulling power. Izzy has had alot of miles on his and he can help you out also.
 
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