Leaf spring greasing/oiling
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
Yes IMHO. It will allow the springs to work smoothly and consistantly for many years.
Be VERY careful when dissasembling a leaf spring, they look pretty harmless, but have a lot of stored up energy in them. Lay them on their side on a floor away from things that you don't want to possibly damage. Put two LARGE (4" or bigger) C clamps on the spring, one on each side of the centerbolt to hold the spring together when you remove the centerbolt. STAND on the spring from the main leaf side while working on it. DO NOT stand, sit or kneel NEXT to it, or else make sure your med insurance is paid up first. Remove the centerbolt nut. Now SLOWLY and evenly release the C clamps until all tension has been released. Reverse the procedure when reassembling the spring.
Be VERY careful when dissasembling a leaf spring, they look pretty harmless, but have a lot of stored up energy in them. Lay them on their side on a floor away from things that you don't want to possibly damage. Put two LARGE (4" or bigger) C clamps on the spring, one on each side of the centerbolt to hold the spring together when you remove the centerbolt. STAND on the spring from the main leaf side while working on it. DO NOT stand, sit or kneel NEXT to it, or else make sure your med insurance is paid up first. Remove the centerbolt nut. Now SLOWLY and evenly release the C clamps until all tension has been released. Reverse the procedure when reassembling the spring.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
Yea, good point about drilling the center holes for each. I was intently reviewing the Mid-Fifty catalog last night drooling over all the new parts and found that they sell the stuff for the rear leafs for $26 and the front leafs for $24. Is that the correct HMW stuff you are talking about?
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 739
Likes: 0
From: Morgantown, WV
I did this exact process, except prior to undoing the bolt, I took a BFH and hit the leafs several times in a few locations to break up the rust scale and anything stuck on the insides. Also, once I removed the bolt, I hit them again to loosen them up a little more. Then, slowly undue the C-clamps. In my case, there was approximately 1/4" of gap b/w each leaf as they seperated from undoing the clamps.
AxMan,
Is the MWH stuff Mid-Fifty sells, the correct stuff.
AxMan,
Is the MWH stuff Mid-Fifty sells, the correct stuff.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
I did this exact process, except prior to undoing the bolt, I took a BFH and hit the leafs several times in a few locations to break up the rust scale and anything stuck on the insides. Also, once I removed the bolt, I hit them again to loosen them up a little more. Then, slowly undue the C-clamps. In my case, there was approximately 1/4" of gap b/w each leaf as they seperated from undoing the clamps.
AxMan,
Is the MWH stuff Mid-Fifty sells, the correct stuff.
AxMan,
Is the MWH stuff Mid-Fifty sells, the correct stuff.
See my answer directly above on the HMW.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 739
Likes: 0
From: Morgantown, WV
My leafs did have a couple pop sounds and lots of creaking as I slowly undid the C-clamps. The hardest part about the leafs is pushing the bearings out of the primary leaf springs. What a bear.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
The way we did it was to take the spring outside and set fire to the rubber in the eye bushing with a torch. Once the rubber was gone, it was easy to knock out the metal sleeve with a small cold chisel or air hammer.
Thread Starter
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,286
Likes: 1,050
From: NM
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Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,575
Likes: 36
From: Greenville, SC
I painted my springs individually and put poly liners in between the leafs, both front and back. Mine is a 60. I am very happy with the ride and the shocks perform just fine. I agree with AX and would recommend putting the liners in. I got mine from speedway.
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