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if your referring to rounding the ends , as well as chamfering it's all for one reason . i read an article years ago by pat ganahl in street rodder , where he did this to get rid of any probable edgea that could " dig into each other while they're flexing . for some reason that stuck in mt head and i've done it with anything on leaves that was something i cared about since . sh-- i think i'm showing my age talking 'bout pat ...........
Hi, I'm new to the forum and want to use monoleafs to lower my F-3.... LOL
Welcome Ross!! OK, big group hug everybody.
Now, the first thing you need to do is to weigh down your F3 as much as you can. Fill the bed with bags of concrete, get all your fat buddys to stand on the front bumper, etc. Hit the spring packs with an angle grinder to remove all the grunge, paint, and crud. Now weld all the leaves together, You want a solid continuous bead here, no puny stitch welds. Do all edges and fronts of all leaves and, Viola!!! You are now the proud owner of your own custom made mono leaf spring. Enjoy the ride!!!
NO need to thank me, just being able to provide this helpful tip is thanks enough
Bobby
I'm beginning to wonder if my shocks are just junk? Red Ryders, less than a thousand miles on them.
Sorry, but your shocks were probably junk when you took them out of the box. Most of the mass produced shocks (Gabriel, Monroe, private label, etc) sold off the shelves at auto parts stores and big box stores should be prosecuted as a crime to be offered for sale to unsuspecting consumers who think all shocks are alike, and high advertising/sales = quality.
There is virtually no quality control testing done on those shocks except to check for obvious leakage. It's MUCH cheaper to replace a few returned shocks than to check tollerances and operation of all the shocks that the manufacturer is selling for < 10.00 per shock. Most faulty ones never come back because the average motorist has no idea how to tell if the shocks have gone bad and assume that since they were recently changed to a major brand they must be good and that's the way they are supposed to work.
There are a few manufacturers that cater to the knowlegable car guys (and gals) that can appreciate and demand a quality product, and are willing to pay for it. Koni, Bilstein, Penske are the 3 I am most familiar with. These are the manufacturers that even the car manufacturers turn to for their high performance models OEM units. All Solstices and Skys come from the factory with Bilstein shocks for example.
A quality shock is ~ 2X the price of a garbage shock, but it is definitely a case of you get what you pay for. Most of the price of the cheaper shocks goes for advertising and middlemen profits, not for what's in the box.
Hey -- I stepped up, these shocks were $20 apiece! You ought to check prices, if you can find Bilsteins for anything for less than $75 each, I'd be surprised. AFAIK they offer nothing for BonusBuilts. I've had good luck with KYB shocks/struts, which despite their name are made in the USA.
I agree about Gabriel/Monroe, they are still producing the shocks that were "OK" back in the early '60's when your Oldsmobile road-floater needed shocks. Can you blame them, tho? Probably 75% of car owners would pick a $10 shock over a $75 shock any day of the week.
Sorry, I thought HD off the self shocks were in the 30-60.00 range. To me even 125.00 per is a good deal for a high quality shock that's properly valved for each application instead of the one size fits everything... sorta... approach of the major brands.
20.00 each? That means the retailer paid ~ 12.00 each, the jobber paid ~ 8.00, they cost the manufacturer ~ 3.00 to make including 1.00 for the multicolor box. can you see the problem here? I knew that you could!
Considering the amount of money we all put into these kidney shakers, I would think that if it is one of those little things that improves the ride and handling, it would be worth the extra $200-$300!
Shoot I bought a pair of shoes that cost more than that once (but admittedly, that's a girl thing)!
Ok
Beilstien is what I used and I called the local rep. and managed to get the 4 or the price of 3 "deal" all in all it was worth the extra cost on top of the new springs it seems to hold the road better and the ride is most definitely
better
shocks ??? i missed the ride of a hard tail harley so i just bolted some thick metal staps in their place along with the new monoleafs i'm gonna make like bobby suggested ..........................
All this on a chassis that has 14 inches of twist from frontcorner to opposite rear.
Watkins Glen here I come.
Sorry, but I don't agree with this reasoning. The frame flex was designed to keep the frame from tearing itself apart while transversing deep ruts and furrows AFTER the suspension reached it max travel. The shocks (major misnomer which confuses people as to the actual function) keep the wheels in contact with the road surface and control body roll entering and exiting turns which in turn stabilizes the handling (drunken monkey effect). Don't sell your truck short with cheap shocks They are more important than the springs themselves.
I can gaurantee your frame won't flex anywhere near 14" or even 1/4 that with everything mounted to it.