here's my todo list, maybe that'll help you make a nice list
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ml#post7572843

 

Thanks for all of the feedback. Can someone please explain the CCV mod for me?

 

The CCV mod is removing the coupler between the two halves of the intake tube going between the turbo & filter and replacing it with a piece of 4" OD exhaust. Then you'll need to turn the dog house around on the valve cover 180 degrees, get a piece of 3/4" heater hose (or better yet, fuel rated hose!), and a 3/4" hose coupler. Get enough hose so you can route it back where ever you want it to go. Just make sure it is always sloping away from the front of the truck. You don't want that hose getting stopped up. I have mine run all the way back to the rear axle by the exhaust exit, but some do it much closer to the front. Your preference. It does stink a little, so it's good to try & keep it away from the front, IMHO...

EDIT: And you'll likely need new O-rings for the dog house. There are two, 1 1/2" OD, 1 1/4" ID 1/8" thick. I got some from the auto parts store.

 

 

Mr Clay is a good guy, he's done many of us good and manages to some how get good prices. He'll do you good as well. As soon as I finish installing my new wicked wheel, CCV mod and change my resistor (again because I'm **** and want exactly 75K on my resistor) I will have some posts of some mods that I've done curtsy of Clay and a few dollar bills.

BTW Clay, you forgot to send me a RiffRaff Window sticker or preferably and static clean sticker.

 

Sorry I'm asking a lot of questions, but does anyone know any HP gain numbers on the 6637? And the CCV?

 

CCV isn't a hp gain, it is just good housekeeping. By keeping the oil out you won't be blowing boots off during high boost levels. The 6637 will give you good filteration at a good price. As far as hp for it I am not sure, but it will be the first step to helping it breath better. Don't hesitate to drop me a line if you have more questions.

 

For some easier HP gains do the 6637 mod, it does give you a small amount of HP gain be reducing your air restriction and it filters better than stock. Open up the exhaust, most people go from 3.5 inch to 4 inch and this also reduces your exhaust gas temperatures and exhaust gas temps are the big killers of diesel vehicles. Never take your exhaust gas over 1300 if you can help it. Try and always keep it below and that's easy to do when your not pulling a load but if you're pulling a trailer then it'll get up there pretty high. Mine usually gets about 1000 to 1200 when pulling a hill w/a trailer.
Do the 75 or 73.2K mod to your IDM. This requires some knowledge in how to solder electronics but if you take out your Injector Driver Module you can change a resistor on it so that your injectors will fire with 140v instead of 100/110/120. This gives a small gain as well and some people report fuel mileage increases of about 1 to 2 mpg.
Using good oil helps to maintain your engine performance as these vehicles are EXTREMELY dependent on their oil. Bad oil means bad news, very bad news. On cars you can just change the oil and minimum harm will have probably been done. On these trucks bad oil could mean new injectors and that will run you between 1500 and 3000 dollars to fix depending on your injectors and who does the repair.
My thoughts are that the air intake and exhaust mods are almost a must as these help increase the life of the motor and should be done before the DP Tuner. The IDM Mod is optional but it helps.
With the DP Tuner you will see some nice improvements. As stated by many users it turns the truck into a "Pissed off Rocket" once that turbo kicks in but as I said Exhaust upgrade is almost a must because when pulling something with a DP Tuner your exhaust WILL get much hotter when you nail it.
You can also change your InterCooler (IC) and this will help to lower your Exhaust Gas Temperatures and you may see a slight performance gain as the IC is cooling the air even more then stock there by causing the air to become more dense and giving you more air molecules in the chamber.
It is also recommended but not required to change your up pipes if it hasn't been done already as the stock up pipes have donut seals that like to fail. This will degrade engine performance by not getting all of your exhaust through the turbo and not producing as much boost. Replacement up pipes run about 300 to 600 but you don't have to replace the donut seals again and if you get powder coated up pipes then you should see a little bit more of a performance gain as most of the heat will be pushed through the turbo and not dissipated by the pipes. The pipes are mostly an improvement on the stock because replacing those donut seals are a pain the the ****.
Oh yea! You might want to check if you have a Wicked Wheel (WW). A WW will reduce boost surging when you have a high amount of boost and makes the whistling noise a bit louder. They are quite nice.
Many people have also done the coolant filtration mod. This helps increase your water pump's life expectancy by removing sediment from your coolant system which seems to be quite common.
You can also replace the stock 195° thermostat with a 203° thermostat and this will help increase your HP a touch and quiet the motor down a touch as well.
Most of this stuff you should be able to get from Clay and for a better price most of the time.
Here are links for more information on the listed mods............

A list of mods, repairs and much more information
Roadside Help Network - Guides, Maintenance & Mods
IDM Mod
IDM Mod
IDM Mod Information
Powerstroke Diesel IDM mod
75K Resistor for the IDM mod of the 100 and 110v IDMs
Digi-Key - PPC75.0KXCT-ND (Vishay/BC Components - SFR16S0007502FR500)
73.2K Resistor for the IDM mod of the 120v IDMs
Clutch eye replacement (no more plastic bushings)
FORD Clutch Rod End PERMANENT Repair powerstroke too. :eBay Motors (item 260392753823 end time Apr-19-09 16:56:28 PDT)
Coolant filtration mod
http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?...WPROD&ProdID=8
A place to purchase a Max AC mod kit
http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?...PROD&ProdID=21
In tank Hutch mod
Welcome to guzzle's In-tank Hutch Mod Web Page
A place to purchase a modded 17° HPOP
Terminator Engineering
PS box to help get rid of that wonder in the steering wheel
Red-Head Steering Gears, Seattle WA - Red-Head Steering Gears Home
A lubricant additive for lubing your injector and increasing their life expectancy
Diesel Fuel Improver
Some high output replacement alternators to replace the stock 120A alternator
1999 & up Ford 7.3L, 6.0L & 6.5L, High output Alternators,
Bullet Thermostat Housing. Increased coolant flow, decreases housing leaks
http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?...ROD&ProdID=188
Oil types that people like to use (In progress)
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ml#post7583152

This should be a good start for you. There are many other things that you can do to these trucks to get more ponies out of your truck but these are the most common.

 

Visseroth, very nice summary.

Also consider an oil-bypass filter. I have the FS2500. It isn't cheap, but it really does keep the oil clear between changes. It's easy to install, just using two plugs near the oil filter, remove those and tap into the system with the hoses provided.

There are other bypass oil filter systems as well, this is just the one I've installed.

Good clean oil is GOOD.

 

really? I'd love to keep my oil sparkly. I'll add that to my list

 

I have seen several of you talk about the (CCV) mod. A brief explaintion would be great.
thanks.

 

With the CCV mod you turn the dog house around on the driver's side valve cover and pipe the crank case fumes some where else. Most run it under the cab or to the back of the truck using automotive grade rubber tubing.

 

See Post #18 (and 19) above :https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ml#post7630078