ok, this is a novice question... are all C6 trannys 4 speeds, or are they all 3 speeds, or can they be either one. im looking into converting from a column shift to floor shift.
thanks for any help.
TrackStar

 

Andrew, All C6s are 3 speed automatics.
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John

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In the cool still quiet of night, you can hear chevies rusting away.

 

All C6's are 3-speeds with non-locking torque converters. You can get aftermarket C6's with lockup torque converters though. If you want the reliability of the C6 but also want overdrive, the E4OD, now known as the 4R100, is essentially an electronically shifted C6 with an overdrive module bolted one. They also have locking torque converters. I don't know the overdrive ratio for the E4OD off the top of my head, (.75?) but the other gears C6wise are as follows:
1st - 2.46:1
2nd - 1.46:1
3rd - 1.00:1
Now maybe I live under a rock, but I've never seen a floor shifted C6. If this can be done without ridiculous hassle, let us know, as I'm somewhat interested in switching to a floor shifter myself.

The Law

 

My parts truck with a has a floor shifter. I think Lokar has a shifter for it.

-- William (Tony) Whited
74 F350 Ranger XLT Super Camper Special 460
77 F150 Custom 460
77 F250 Custom 460 (parts truck)
El Paso, TX Semper Fi

 

E4OD/4R100 overdrive ratio is 0.71:1.

Mark

 

I figured a floor shifter would work because B& M and Hurst both list the C6 as compatable with their various floor shifters. Maybe im overlooking something obvious, I dont know. Like I said, im a novice at all this stuff, so if somethings not right in my thinking let me know.
Thanks,
TrackStar

 

>You can get aftermarket C6's with lockup torque converters
>though.
>
>The Law


Tell me where I can get more info on this. I have a Gear Vendors on my C6 now, and I think a lockup converter would be a great addition to the drivetrain. Can a regular C6 be modified to accept a lockup converter? For me, an optimum setup would be to have a simple lock/unlock switch I would control manually. Lock it while going down the hiway to reduce heat and increase efficiency; unlock it while the transmision is shifting or comming to a stop. If I forgit to unlock it and kill the engine at a stop, then I guess that would just be my own stupidity.

 

How do you like your gear vendors? What do you use it on?


-- William (Tony) Whited
74 F350 Ranger XLT Super Camper Special 460
77 F150 Custom 460
77 F250 Custom 460 (parts truck)
El Paso, TX Semper Fi

 

I have had it in my '69 F250 Camper Special 410FE/C6/3.73 for about half a year now. I rebuilt the C6 at the same time; installed the GV output shaft and tailhousing on the bench, so I am not sure how difficult it would be to install it with C6 in vehicle. It bolted to the crossmember exactly like the old 7 inch (shorty) cast iron tailhousing did.

Likes: Much quieter in the cab at hiway speeds; you forget how much it helps the noise level until you take it out of OD while doing 60.

Easier to keep up with the flow of traffic on the freeway. 60 MPH is now 2250 RPM in OD; 2750 in direct (OD off). I can now do about 75 at the same RPM that I could only do 60 before.

Gained about 1-1.5 MPG on the freeway; it probably would be better if I didn't drive faster now.

Can be shifted in/out at any speed above 25, under any load, in any forward gear in the C6. Don't even have to let-off the gas.

Unlike the AOD, you can tow with it in OD, and it won't be shifting in/out on you automatically when climbing a hill.



Dislikes: Had to dent-in the front corner of my gas tank for clearence, lost about a gallon capacity; never dented my truck on purpose before.

Requires 2qt. of GM or Mopar Synthetic Gear Lube at about $20 a quart. They also recommend oil change every 10,000 miles--there goes my fuel savings!

Too many electronic components with it. There is a brain box that sences your speed and keeps track of how many times the unit has shifted. There is a manual switch box with lights that allows you to choose between Autodrive (auto engagement at 40MPH) and Overdrive (manual on/off control). And finally a foot switch (similar to a dimmer switch) to engages/disengage the OD. All of this had to be mounted inside the cab. The foot switch alone would be just fine with me; easier to troubleshoot and much less clutter under the dash.

Not happy with the fit of the supplied slip yolk to the splines on the GV final output shaft. Too loose and sloppy especially for a 32-spline shaft IMHO. Since there is allready a slip-spline in my driveline, a simple 4-bolt output flange like what was on the original C6 shaft would be much more rigid and durable. However I do like the big 1350 series u-joint the GV slip yolk requires.

Driveshaft shortening was not cheap. Just a weld and balance alone cost $100 at a driveline shop. I did all the actual measuring, shortening, and trimming on a lathe myself. Plus a new 1350 weld-on yolk to match GV yolk, three new Spicer u-joints, a new carrier bearing, and 12" of 3" tube. Total driveline modification cost: almost $200.