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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

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Old Jun 11, 2009 | 06:36 PM
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Need help Please!

1966, truck runs great at idle. will run for ever. IF you take it and drive it as soon as you have to come to a stop and cannot give it gas it dies everytime. It will re-crank and run until next time you need to stop...any ideas on what to try? Thanks
Brian
 
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Old Jun 11, 2009 | 06:52 PM
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Without knowing all about your truck, engine trans and wear & tear , I would guess it Sounds like vaccum, or air leak at base plate area. could be a float sticking in carb as well.
I've had a coil go bad, and I thought it was a torque converter problem, and I installed a stall converter and come to find out the problem was a back coil.
Hope my shade tree mechanic degree helps.

Mitch
 
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Old Jun 12, 2009 | 05:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Brainard 66
1966, truck runs great at idle. will run for ever. IF you take it and drive it as soon as you have to come to a stop and cannot give it gas it dies everytime. It will re-crank and run until next time you need to stop...any ideas on what to try? Thanks
Brian
V8 with an Auto-Lite/Motorcraft 2V carburetor?

Bogging down, hesitating, stumbling when taking off from a dead stop or giving it "the gas" at speed causing the same problem, is indicative of a bad accelerator pump diaphram and check valve.

Ford 2V carbs are notorious for having this problem.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2009 | 10:53 AM
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When it comes to troubleshooting it's anybodys guess, I tend to lean towards the accelerator pump camp. Not familiar with the autolite carb, if you don't need to disassemble to check the float level, may want to start there.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2009 | 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by daveengelson
Not familiar with the autolite carb.
Yiou aren't? That's rather surprising...considering the forum you're posting in, and the year of your truck, because.....

Most of the 1V, 2V, and 4V carbs from 1962 thru 1972 are Auto-Lites.

The reason is, there was no such thing as Motorcraft until 1973.

The US Gov't forced Ford to sell Auto-Lite in 1972, because they claimed Ford had a monopoly on auto parts.

Ford argued by saying that GM was doing the same thing, as they had owned DELCO since 1911, but the argument fell on deaf ears.

After Auto-Lite was sold, Ford started in-house brand Motorcraft, transfering all the Auto-Lite part numbers over to Motorcraft part numbers.

D4AZ9A586A .. 2V Carburetor Kit (Motorcraft CT499D)

D4AZ9A586A replaced C2AZ9A586B / CT499D replaced CT499C

Fits 1962/74 Auto-Lite/Motorcraft 2V Carburetors.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2009 | 05:10 PM
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That's assuming prior owner kept the truck in their original condition. Purchased 65 in mid 70's, prior owner had already installed the 302ci, (67 289/302), with 4 V Holley carb (4160), more familiar with the Holley than I would like to be. Purchased the 65 with 390ci in mid 90's, prior owner replaced the stock intake with the dual plane alum. intake manifold with a 4 V double pumper carb. with lotsa CFM, along with MSD ign., and various other HP components. Have since replaced the intake with the cast iron, replace the carb with Holley 4 V; had an extra I had rebuilt, swapped the MSD for the Duraspark II., and removed some of the other HP components. At one point, considered replacing the carbs for stock but by then I was very familiar with the Holley, IMHO, one of the simplest carbs to rebuild so have stuck with them.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2009 | 04:15 PM
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I have a Holley 2 barrel carb.
Again truck starts great and will idle in the garage forever. Pull it out and and as soon as you have to push clutch in and come to a stop it dies.
I have all new fuel filters, new fuel pump, new fuel lines, new fuel tank
Does this sound like a carb issue? would the timing being off cause that?
sorry forthe dumb questions not the most vehicle saavy member on here I am sure.
Thanks
 
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Old Jun 13, 2009 | 05:36 PM
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i would guess its a vacuum leak. those are a pain to find also. id rebuild the carb to replace all the seals. also if you have a vacuum brake booster, check the vacuum line that goes from the rear of the carb, or intake manifold to the booster.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2009 | 06:31 PM
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Starting to hedge on the accelerator pump idea and move into the 'power valve' camp. But before deciding whether to rebuild, or replace carb suggest confirm turn up spec's, which includes pts. and plug gap, as well as the timing. Then check float lever by placing the trunk on level ground, remove the fuel level sight plug the fuel level should be even with the threads. Fuel mixture may be too lean, seat the adjusting needle, not too tight, then back it off approx. 1 1/2 turns, this should put the carb mixturn in the ball park for fine tuning. Also, how do you have the vac advance set up?
 
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Old Jun 13, 2009 | 07:13 PM
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I had a very similar problem with my truck. What took care of it for me was replacing the vacuum advance diaphram on the distributor. Godd luck
 
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