Hey guys I am obivously new at this so any help or direction would be appreciated. this may be a dumb question. I HAve a 1995 f150. Is it possible to install front and rear diffs out of a 95 f250 into mine and still retain my front coil suspension and radius arms? I have a bds lift kit with extended radius arms that i haven't installed yet when I came across a junk 95 f250 that I can get for next to nothing. I thought the bigger diffs may be worth using if possible. Thanks for any imput even if it is to say it is a dumb question!

 

Just curious, why would you want to do this?

 

I thought the heavier diffs might be better for off roading and be more dependable

 

The theory is sound, but the concept is not as productive as one would think. Dependning on the donor front end, it isnot much stronger than what you already have. A ttb D44 is the same regardless. Only difference is the fact that the F250 will have 8 lugs and the one fitty will have 5.
As far as the rear, it will be a nice swap and will be stronger than the 8.8, but save some trouble and just swap the outer components up front so you can use the heavier duty rear axle. The rear axle is about the only place you can find some strength.
This was, your lift kit and everything will still work. You will need different wheelsm and these wheels might require different tires too, so be prepared for some additional expense.

 

I don't think that they are much better than what you have.
But i'm not a hundred percent sure on this.

Anyone care to back me up?

It just seems like too much work without enough benefits.

 

it would be a benefit in my opinion....but just put the whole axle in. 10.25 rear and solid d60 in front. just my 2c

 

x2
Obviously the 8.8" to 10.25" swap is a good idea.

Going from TTB D44 to a solid front D44 would be an improvement... However I'd sell both of the D44's and buy a D60 & swap it in with the 10.25"

 

wouldnt a 95 f250 have a TTB axle in it...all the ones ive seen do...therefore there is nothing to gain up front other than you get 8 lug instead of 5...the rear axle would be no better because i believe its a 9" (not sure here) vs. the 8.8 problem is the 9" has no VSS which you will need and to do that can get interesting...

i say if you are going to go through with an axle swap hold out for a solid front axle...if you are going over 36" tires and are offroad regularly go with 1 ton axles (d60 front and sterling 10.25 rear) thats a good swap...but for running less than 36s but still doing regular offroading just do a solid d44 up front leave the rear end alone...its not the strongest but unless you drive like 75F350 up there with big bogger tires it will hold out fine

p.s. if you scroll down the offroad page you will find a topic called "my SAS"...its my SAS LOL its a 75 d44 front end swap...just so you can see some of the work involved

and if you do a solid front end you will not be able to use your rad arms...but you can always sell those and buy the rad arms for the solid axle...if you compare the TTB to a late 70s d44 solid axle you will see that the late 70s axle has much longer arms to begin with

 

Um... haha, yeah. I'm an idiot, reading comp = nil.

Taking that into account, you basically accomplish nothing w/ this swap.

I'd either:
-hold out for a D60, buy a 10.25" from a j-yard for $100-150
-swap in a solid D44, keep 8.8"
-leave it alone

 

yeah the only time this swap is useful is if you plan on going over 35" with tires along with heavy offroading....any less then that leave the TTB alone...unless the TTB is junk anyway then instead of replacing that with another TTB id replace it with a straight axle

I did my SAS because i plan on 35 or 36" mud tires and this truck will see heavy off road usage plus the TTB was a hurtin unit to begin with and needed work to pass inspection...so ill kill 2 birds with one stone...plus the $400 write off inspection includes an alignment so getting this swap done now means i wont have to pay for 2 alignments