Head Gasket Writeup: 7.3 IDI ?
Thread Starter
|
More Turbo
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 574
Likes: 0
From: New England
Head Gasket Writeup: 7.3 IDI ?
So yeah I have to replace head gaskets in the 1989 7.3 idi, I am seeking an online writeup or is it just remove/replace/reverse procedure?
Anything I should look out for? I am going to have the heads magnafluxed and tanked, replace glow plugs (ZD-9), OEM stat, and all interval stuff (fuel/oil/air filters etc). I will be doing this in my driveway with no lift or anything. I have done heads and gas engine replacements. Seems like everything in a diesel is greasy and heavy
Am I going to need a valey pan or intake gasket if so where can I get it? AZ did not list one. It says not included thats all.
And what kind of coolant for these engines and how much?
Thanks WAAAAY in advance.
Anything I should look out for? I am going to have the heads magnafluxed and tanked, replace glow plugs (ZD-9), OEM stat, and all interval stuff (fuel/oil/air filters etc). I will be doing this in my driveway with no lift or anything. I have done heads and gas engine replacements. Seems like everything in a diesel is greasy and heavy
Am I going to need a valey pan or intake gasket if so where can I get it? AZ did not list one. It says not included thats all.
And what kind of coolant for these engines and how much?
Thanks WAAAAY in advance.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
As for the parts Advance Auto lists what you will need.
Intake Manifold Gasket Set - Advance Auto Parts
Cylinder Head Gasket Set - Advance Auto Parts
Passenger side head is a bear, you can't get several of the bolts out, you have to put fuel line around them to hold them up in the head till it is out.
Same bolts must be in the holes held up with fuel line before the head is put back in place.
Other than that, right much a standard remove and replace, just more head bolts and much heavier parts than you would find on a gasser.
Have you done gas engine work before?
Intake Manifold Gasket Set - Advance Auto Parts
Cylinder Head Gasket Set - Advance Auto Parts
Passenger side head is a bear, you can't get several of the bolts out, you have to put fuel line around them to hold them up in the head till it is out.
Same bolts must be in the holes held up with fuel line before the head is put back in place.
Other than that, right much a standard remove and replace, just more head bolts and much heavier parts than you would find on a gasser.
Have you done gas engine work before?
Thread Starter
|
More Turbo
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 574
Likes: 0
From: New England
yes I replace my engine before, swapped cams, etc etc and done cylinder head replacement before on ford gassers.
WHat do you mean using fuel line to hold bolts while removing the head? Is there a fuel rail on the head I use for this or just any old rubber fuel line to remove?
Also of importance, I understand I do not want to mess up some timing marks on the fuel pump?? I do not know what this means and where would I scribe my marks so I do not lose timing?
WHat do you mean using fuel line to hold bolts while removing the head? Is there a fuel rail on the head I use for this or just any old rubber fuel line to remove?
Also of importance, I understand I do not want to mess up some timing marks on the fuel pump?? I do not know what this means and where would I scribe my marks so I do not lose timing?
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,900
Likes: 3
From: Campbell River, B.C.
You need to remove the bolt torque in the reverse sequence of tightening, rather than simply pulling all the bolts in a random easy to reach fashion.
I've heard you can reuse the intake manifold gasket/valley pan if you clean it well (but no harsh solvents) and use RTV sealant. Some have done this several times, or so they claim. If I ever have to pull my intake again, I will try it myself because those things aren't cheap.
I've heard you can reuse the intake manifold gasket/valley pan if you clean it well (but no harsh solvents) and use RTV sealant. Some have done this several times, or so they claim. If I ever have to pull my intake again, I will try it myself because those things aren't cheap.
Thread Starter
|
More Turbo
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 574
Likes: 0
From: New England
heh I will try that!! $65 in the bank 
I have sliced my finger wide open trying to remove one before though. I Just printed a torque sequence page and misc drawings from AZ.
Are there any special tools needed to remove fuel injectors, lines etc? I have a pretty good and stocked MAC tools cabinet
I have sliced my finger wide open trying to remove one before though. I Just printed a torque sequence page and misc drawings from AZ.Are there any special tools needed to remove fuel injectors, lines etc? I have a pretty good and stocked MAC tools cabinet
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,900
Likes: 3
From: Campbell River, B.C.
I can take the injectors out with nothing other than an open end wrench. A 1" deep socket would maybe be better, but I never needed one. Ideally, you would use special fitting wrenches (5 point open end, or crows foot, I think they're called??) for the actual fuel fittings but again, a regular open end worked fine for me.
Remember to remove the injector pump with the fuel lines as one assembly, but to leave the drive gear and housing in place on the engine.
Remember to remove the injector pump with the fuel lines as one assembly, but to leave the drive gear and housing in place on the engine.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
Since you can not get the bolts out of the holes in the head, you use a short piece of fuel line split down the side to slip over the bolts and hold them up in the head.
That way the thread portion on the bolt is not catching on cylinders and water passages as you move the head off the block.
65 dollars is cheap compared to doing the job again because of a leak.
The shape mine were in by the time they were off, I would never trust them.
I had enough trouble getting a new one to seal.
But then I am running a bit more boost than most people are.
That way the thread portion on the bolt is not catching on cylinders and water passages as you move the head off the block.
65 dollars is cheap compared to doing the job again because of a leak.
The shape mine were in by the time they were off, I would never trust them.
I had enough trouble getting a new one to seal.
But then I am running a bit more boost than most people are.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
More Turbo
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 574
Likes: 0
From: New England
It occured to me what you meant about the fuel lines last night. About how high do you need to hold them up? about 1"?
Yeah if the valley pan looks pad I would change it too.
When I remove the injector pump, am I going to mess with some sort of timing marks? IS this where the drive gear and IP need to be timed together?
Thanks
Yeah if the valley pan looks pad I would change it too.
When I remove the injector pump, am I going to mess with some sort of timing marks? IS this where the drive gear and IP need to be timed together?
Thanks
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Methanoholic
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 6,442
Likes: 8
From: Maine (NorCal Native)
Thread Starter
|
More Turbo
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 574
Likes: 0
From: New England
Ok I have almost got to where I can pull the intake and heads. I did not remove the oil filler housing, is this ok? I also didnt make any marks on the housing where the IP meets. I couldnt see where to do it and by then IP was in my hand
I will not move the crank during head gasket change, nor will I move the pump hub (i did make some marks there to make sure it doesnt go out) I see that the alignment dowel is there so I should be ok when I start it eh? Or did completely lose timing? I have read how to dial it in once truck is running.
Just wanted some assurance I didnt mess this up already
I will not move the crank during head gasket change, nor will I move the pump hub (i did make some marks there to make sure it doesnt go out) I see that the alignment dowel is there so I should be ok when I start it eh? Or did completely lose timing? I have read how to dial it in once truck is running.
Just wanted some assurance I didnt mess this up already
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
As long as the IP drive gear and cam gear stay meshed, you will be fine.
The alignment dowel will get the IP back in time close enough to run if you line up the timing marks on the IP neck and the gear cover.
Fine tuning the timing by ear is not that hard.
Where everyone messes up is pulling the four bolts that hold the IP drive gear cover down, then removing the IP, drive gear, housing and injection lines as one piece.
The alignment dowel will get the IP back in time close enough to run if you line up the timing marks on the IP neck and the gear cover.
Fine tuning the timing by ear is not that hard.
Where everyone messes up is pulling the four bolts that hold the IP drive gear cover down, then removing the IP, drive gear, housing and injection lines as one piece.
Methanoholic
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 6,442
Likes: 8
From: Maine (NorCal Native)
I assume there is timing marks on the cam gear as well as the IP gear, is it a sight issue on realigning them. (Can't see the marks on the cam gear without pulling the front off)
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
There is a plate behind the water pump that covers the timing gears.
The top of the cam gear is slightly below the top of the timing gear cover.
So seeing it with your eyes is impossible.
Several people have used a butter knife to see the reflection of the timing mark with success, but that just adds time and frustration to the job.
Mark on the crank gear, two marks on the cam gear and one on the IP drive gear.
With the front off the engine all four line up from top to bottom.
The top of the cam gear is slightly below the top of the timing gear cover.
So seeing it with your eyes is impossible.
Several people have used a butter knife to see the reflection of the timing mark with success, but that just adds time and frustration to the job.
Mark on the crank gear, two marks on the cam gear and one on the IP drive gear.
With the front off the engine all four line up from top to bottom.