I was searching for a better parts breakdown of the DB2 IP's and found a link to one at Diesel Care & Performance.

I had this as a pdf from another site, which I can no longer find.

The breakdown is for a DB2 4812 IP, but the parts are about the same for all IP's before 1992.5 when the DB2-50xx series IP's started.

http://www.dieselcare.net/db2breakdown.pdf

The quality is not that great, but it is as good as I have been able to find on the web.

 

Dave, do you think that an average joe like me can change an IP that has been pre-adjusted so I don't have to worry about overfueling and EGT's. Also how do you check timing and change it?

 

Thanks Dave,

Appreciate that.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

Changing the IP is not that hard.
Even easier on a NA motor since you can usually remove the IP and injection lines as a unit.

The biggest thing, do not remove the IP drive gear cover.
Be careful to keep the IP drive gear meshed with the cam gear inside the IP drive gear cover.

Remove the air cleaner.
Disconnect the electrical connections from the IP.
Remove the fuel supply line from the IP and filter header.
Remove the return line from the IP.
Disconnect the throttle cable.
Remove either the oil fill spout or the IP drive gear access plate if you fill spout is cast into the IP drive gear cover.
Remove the three 12 point 5/16" bolts that hold the drive gear to the IP shaft.
Remove all of the injection lines at the injectors.
Remove the IP mounting nuts, the bottom two are a bit of a pain to get a wrench on.
Now you should be able to slide the IP and injection lines to the rear while rotating the rear of the injection lines up.
Everything should come out looking like a big butterfly.

Now swap the injection lines to the new IP.

Reverse the above steps to reinstall the IP.

As you are getting ready to tighten the nuts that hold the IP to the drive gear cover, you will see a line scribed in the IP neck and the shoulder on the IP drive gear cover.
If you line them up, the engine will start.

My method for timing takes a bit of trial and error.
First start of the day, a light throttle application should result in a rattle(Power Stroke rattle) that goes away when the fast idle kicks off at 112 degrees engine temp.

Advance, top of the IP to passenger side increases the rattle.
Retard, top of IP to drivers side reduces the rattle.

This method is about as good or better than you will get at most shops and a lot cheaper.
But is does assume you can hear the rattle and know what it is.
So this might not be a good thing for someone that is not very familiar with a normal IDI sound to try and use.

That is my timing method I have been using for years, it works for me.

 

What the heck is going one here... I know I did not double post!

Post count didn't change either.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

FTE has been acting quirky, cuz technically you shouldn't be able to double post unless you tried really hard.

 

Yes, Something is up with FTE, This and other things have been happening a lot lately.

Double posting is as easy as posting ... There is no way to prevent a user from double posting without scanning each post to determine if they are the same. Very impractical.

However time limits between posting can be and is implemented here on FTE.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

You should get a message like this is an exact duplicate of your last post if you click the submit button twice.

But as you said, things are a little funny here lately.

 

i time mine almost exactly like this, except on my truck i gave her just a little more rattle than normal cause thats how me likes it

 

Dave,

Just to clarify.
You want it to rattle a little with the cold start advance on, but no rattle with it off?

Does the temp have anything to do with it other than turning on the cold start advance?
Another words, can this method be done to a warm motor by hot wiring the advance on.

Thanks

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

The only thing the engine temp has anything to do with is activating the timing advance.

So if you hot wired the timing advance you could do this on a hot engine.

Rattle when the tiing advance is on, gone when the timing advance is off.

Takes three or four attempts to get it dialed in is about normal.

 

Perfectly clear!

Thanks Dave.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

Hey guys I just pulld an IP off to change head gaskets and I didnt make a mark on the oil filler housing. I just marked the hub coming from the pump so it wouldnt get out of whack. Then I read this thread.....

Did I screw it up, or can I still get this thing going when I am done? I basically have the IP on the floor where it will not get turned. I also will not be turing the crank during rebuild. I thought the alignment dowel would keep things in time.

Did I screw up royally? any tips?

 

You did fine.

Print off the above so you can fine tune the timing when you get it all back together.