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Head Gasket Writeup: 7.3 IDI ?

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Old Jun 3, 2009 | 07:27 PM
  #16  
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well forget all that I am just gonna bolt it back and twist it till it clatters (nah I will try to do it right)

Hey one other thing, can you tell me..... when I am waiting for the glow plug light to go off so I can start the truck, the light goes off after about 6-8 seconds. After the light goes off, I can hear this clicking like pretty big clicks... it will draw down the instrument lights, then the clicking stops after about 5-10 clicks. Is this the GPC or GP relay?
 
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Old Jun 3, 2009 | 07:46 PM
  #17  
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Thats the afterglow cycle. Completely normal.

Basically, yes the GPC is still cycling the glow plugs to keep them warm, but you are still supposed to start the engine after the light goes out. The WTS is exactly that, a wait to start light. After that goes out, all you need to do is turn the key and not think the rest.

My truck uses a more crude control system that still shows the glow plug light (labelled as such) for about 10 seconds, then goes off so you start the truck. After that, it will continue short afterglow cycling (light and all) and in colder weather will start the after glow again 1-2 miles down the road.

Actually, I rather like having more info on what the truck is doing and when its doing it
 
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Old Jun 3, 2009 | 08:27 PM
  #18  
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The glow plug system from 83 to 86 was one of the best on the market.
After glow to reduce white smoke, sensed coolant temp to see if glow plugs were needed or not.

As long as it is working, there is no better system.

But when it breaks, what a nightmare to trouble shoot and figure out which piece is causing the problem since they are all tied together.

Afterglow is timed by the alternator output into a timing circuit.
Glow or not by coolant temp.
No start after wait to start light goes out cycling, by another timer.

Complex system.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2009 | 08:44 PM
  #19  
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is the timer same as the controller?

And I crumbled the little plastic boots over the GP connectors. Havent been able to locate them on any sites. Should I worry about them or not? Or are they included with new GP's?
 
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Old Jun 3, 2009 | 08:48 PM
  #20  
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Dave, Thanks for the timing mark description...

-Enjoy
fh : )_~
 
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Old Jun 3, 2009 | 10:38 PM
  #21  
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When mine acted up, new controllers were 150 dollars.
I made it half way through the diagnostics with a winter storm moving in.

I just went manual with mine and never gave it another though.
The timer that keeps the glow plug hot if you don't start the engine as soon as the wait to start light goes out is in the controller.

I am not positive, but I think the latching relay that does afterglow is in the warning module where the lights are.

That was years ago when all of that stuff went away on my truck.
Probably talking 10 - 12 years or better and I don't remember anymore.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2009 | 10:09 AM
  #22  
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I really appreciate all the help.

should I remove the exhaust manifold bolts first before removing heads? I am lifting these out by hand(s) and I do not need another 30 pound manifold on there. I was going to remove the fender welt and try to access the exhaust bolts.

Thing is I did this on my 77 400cid once and I had to drill some bolts out and it was NOT fun. I really want to avoid breaking an exhaust bolt off. Are these notorious for breaking or something? Should I use an impact gun on them?
 
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Old Jun 4, 2009 | 01:36 PM
  #23  
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An impact gun is fine, just make sure you can get on the bolt head straight so you don't round off the bolt head.
That is just as bad as a broken bolt.

Yes, I have broken a manifold bolt trying to get them out before, but I would not say they are notorious for breaking.

And doing this in the truck, I agree that you don't need any more weight attached to the head, they are already heavy enough.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2009 | 07:05 PM
  #24  
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After inspecting the exhaust bolts they look pretty bad on a few. I scraped off flakes of rust and the 9/16" socket just rolls over it by hand

I have to pull these by hand, unless I can rent a hoist locally which is unlikely
 
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Old Jun 4, 2009 | 09:15 PM
  #25  
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Do you have a tree handy?

Pulling the heads with the exhaust manifolds on them will put them at or over 100 pounds each.

Anything that can help you hold them will be an advantage.

With the turbo system on mine, if I have to pull heads the engine comes out first.
That way I can stand on flat ground when the heads are removed and installed.
Much easier to get a better job on the head gaskets that way.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2009 | 09:35 PM
  #26  
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No tree handy but I am going to check on a trailer mounted cherry picking boom thing tmorrow. I rented one about 7 years ago to swap in a 400 and it was great. Im in a new area with no real knowledge as to where I can rent stuff yet.
 
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