I traded my 1996 7.3 PSD in for a new 2005 6.0 PSD. My 7.3 problems were mostly transmission related, but I have had a few issue with this 6.0 engine, which now has 48,000 miles on the odometer. We use our trucks to tow our fifth wheels. We tow a 30 ft fifth wheel with our present truck.

Our 6.0 is still completely stock, but having had problems with the turbine and having read of others experience with this engine I decided to install a EGT gauge (pyro as everyone seems to call it) and a transmission temperture gauge. The Pyro is installed pre turbo in the exhaust manifold.

My question is what Exhaust gas temperatures should look for so as not to overstess the turbine?

I have done several searches for this information on this forum, but I find a lot of people wondering what gauges to buy, but no informative information as to how to use the EGT readings once the gauge is installed. I am sure this information is available here, but I can't find it.

What should I use as the caution and red line temps? If I reach the red line temp on climbing a steep grade what should I do to reduce the EGT short of stopping, which is sometimes not possible due to road and or traffic conditions?

I would appreciate any advice in this matter.

 

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Thanks Mark for your quick and most informative reply.

I am still interested on what is the best method to bring EGT back down when it is in the severe service range. And, what is recommended when the Alarm temp is reached.

 

I may be on the conservative side w/ my numbers, but I tend to be that way. Just back off of the throttle if you get too high. You can withstand temps of 1350 or even a little higher for very short durations. Ultimately, a larger exhaust is the answer if you are constantly high (IMO).

 

Thank You Mark.

I have been in situations where backing off on the throttle would mean not making the hill. Would manually shifting to a lower gear help bring the EGT down in this situation.

I am still open to more recommendations...

 

On the hills, keep in tow/haul mode. The tranny will shift down as necessary.

 

Thank You BPofMD. I appreciate your taking the time to respond.

I do use tow haul. In fact, when in tow haul, we had our turbine break the clamps off the turbines outlet pipe three years ago when going up that long, steep grade on I-24 northwest of Chattanooga. I tried to replace the clamp but when I found it, it was broken. We called Ford and they sent a tow truck to take us to a Ford dealer in Manchester, TN. They couldn't fix it, but one of the mechanics had an old clamp that he put on. It let loose about 30 minutes out of Manchester.

We nursed that truck stopping at Ford dealers between Manchester and Kansas City. Finally, in Kansas City we found a dealer who could get the parts and could fix our problem. Between Manchester and Kansas City that hose blew off over ten times. Made some nice dents in the hood. Most of the times I could find the old clamp and put it back together. Another Ford dealer even gave me a new clamp, but the turbine would blow the hose off even with that new clamp. The Ford dealer in Kansas City put on a new turbine.

I think the variable blades on my old turbine may have stuck and the turbine was putting out too much boost. The boost gage in the truck, however, was in the normal range.

I figured getting a handle on the exhaust temps might save me some future on-the-road problems and save Ford from having to replace another turbine.

 

Amazing.... My clamp blew off within 6 months of me buying MY '05 on the beginning of a US tour in Virginia...it too really put a nice dent in my hood. Ford replaced the hood on my return home 45 days later. A Ford dealer in Dallas/Ft Worth replaced the turbine and clamp. All under warranty. Nary a problem since. I did install a coolent filter to protect the oil cooler tho....I recommend the mod for every 6.0.

Before the trip, I did install 3 gauges in a POD on the drivers side. EGT, Engine Oil Temp and Trans Oil Temp. I'd suggest these to all trailer tow'ers.

 

You may already know or do these things, but ,,,,, some things to consider that will help w/ turbo sticking (carboning up or rust buildup).

1. use synthetic (5W40) CJ4 oil.
2. use a quality cetane booster
3. minimize short trips and excessive idle time
4. if you do idle, install the "high idle" mod
5. pull your egr valve and see if it is stuck open or the spring is weak (clean or replace if needed)
6. open up the exhaust to reduce EGT's
7. occasionally "drive it hard"
8. re-route your crankcase ventillation system
9. Keep your intake clear (proper filter changes)
10. keep your fuel system healthy:

• maintain fuel filters (proper type and change frequency)
• install a fuel pressure gauge - always stay above 45 psig
• use a good fuel additive (already mentioned)
• install the latest flash and use synthetic oil (stiction will be a thing of the past)
• promptly repair any issues with batteries or alternator to preserve the FICM

 

NEVER go to this shop in Manchester again.... ha ha I live in Manchester and wouldnt trust the shop with a scooter. There is a guy ther who is ok, and they claim he's an AWESOME tech.... however my experience with friends, and the advice of some really good techs jusst down the road.. is to stay away.

Also if you're pulling you definitely need to get a handle on and watch the egt s it'll help a TON... Bismic has VERY good info, as you'll find thru a number of helpfull saviers on here. Good luck

 

Thanks for the info blong2107. But, we had little say to where the Ford tow took us. Since we had that turbo problem I have towed up that grade l three times more with nary a problem. It will be interesting the next time we come up that way to see how the egt and trannie temps hold up. I have always watched the truck trannie temp, but it always stayed in the normal range.

I have heard that the stock transmission temp gauge is controlled by the computer and it only tells you that your trannie is hot after the fact. If that is not correct, perhaps I could be enlightened as to how the stock trannie temp gauge works.

 

The "Factory" transmission temp gauge, is a glorified "idiot" light as its response is severely dampened. The panel gage will show the temp as fully warmed up at 50 *F. Between 100-220 *F the needle will remain in the same position on the gauge. At 230 *F it will move up slightly to the middle of the normal range. At 250 *F it will move to Yellow. The gage moves to red at 280 *F. This is supported on page 36 of the OBDII Theory and Operations manual. The tow/haul light will flash at 275 *F.
In my opinion (to be conservative) over 220 *F is too hot for continuous service and never exceed 250 *F for more than 30 minutes.
It is said (by folks that know) that the fluid can get to 250 *F for a SHORT time w/o any damage. This is because a measured temp of 250 *F actually may mean that some areas and parts may be as high as 300 *F. Normal tranny fluid is good to 300 *F or so.

 

Thanks Bismic. I had heard something like this before, but you are the first one that told me how it works complete with temperature ranges...