2008 Rear Diff Cover
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 14,541
Likes: 2
From: Dallas-Ft. Worth
(Digging up this thread since I'm working on it today)
Possibly Justin. I just ran around getting my stuff together -- all I could find was Royal Purple 75W-140 at $16/quart.
And all I could find was 1 1/2" bolts -- hope they're not too long!! I'll find out shortly...
EDIT: Here's the DieselManor link: CLICKY, but it doesn't give the bolt sizes. If these don't work, I'll be playing hell trying to find the right ones. At $78, it might be a bargain with the bolts if I can't find any here. LOL
Possibly Justin. I just ran around getting my stuff together -- all I could find was Royal Purple 75W-140 at $16/quart.
And all I could find was 1 1/2" bolts -- hope they're not too long!! I'll find out shortly...
EDIT: Here's the DieselManor link: CLICKY, but it doesn't give the bolt sizes. If these don't work, I'll be playing hell trying to find the right ones. At $78, it might be a bargain with the bolts if I can't find any here. LOL
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 8,298
Likes: 25
From: Damon (South East Texas)
(Digging up this thread since I'm working on it today)
Possibly Justin. I just ran around getting my stuff together -- all I could find was Royal Purple 75W-140 at $16/quart.
And all I could find was 1 1/2" bolts -- hope they're not too long!! I'll find out shortly...
EDIT: Here's the DieselManor link: CLICKY, but it doesn't give the bolt sizes. If these don't work, I'll be playing hell trying to find the right ones. At $78, it might be a bargain with the bolts if I can't find any here. LOL
Possibly Justin. I just ran around getting my stuff together -- all I could find was Royal Purple 75W-140 at $16/quart.
And all I could find was 1 1/2" bolts -- hope they're not too long!! I'll find out shortly...
EDIT: Here's the DieselManor link: CLICKY, but it doesn't give the bolt sizes. If these don't work, I'll be playing hell trying to find the right ones. At $78, it might be a bargain with the bolts if I can't find any here. LOL
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 14,541
Likes: 2
From: Dallas-Ft. Worth
Exactly, Roland. And now I found out my pinion seal is leaking, too... 
Just went & got one -- anyone have tips on changing it?? Is it as easy as dropping the drive shaft & pulling out the old seal and putting the new one in??
Just went & got one -- anyone have tips on changing it?? Is it as easy as dropping the drive shaft & pulling out the old seal and putting the new one in??
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 8,298
Likes: 25
From: Damon (South East Texas)
PM sent.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 14,541
Likes: 2
From: Dallas-Ft. Worth
The 10.5 Sterling is a little more tricky to set the proper peload on the pinion bearings tthan the Dana 80. With the Dana 80, you just torque down the nut. With the 10.5. you need to check the preload/drag on the bearings. If you can feel a drag as you turn the pinion and there is no slack up and down in the pinion, you can mark the nut and end of the shaft to get you back to the same general preload when you re-install the yoke and nut. You have to "feel" your way thru this one.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 8,298
Likes: 25
From: Damon (South East Texas)
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Posting Guru
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 2,274
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From: Milroy, PA
Before you get crazy, you may want to give Steve at Differential Engineering a call. He has a crush collar eliminator kit (essentially a pack of shims) That you will get rid of the weak point in the sterling 10.5. Its a little more work IMO but most certainly the best way to go. Steve will advise you the same. Then no more pinion issues. ever. I have it done to mine.
Steve
Differential Engineering.
863-294-7602
Steve
Differential Engineering.
863-294-7602
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Dallas-Ft. Worth
I've already done it. It was a major bieotch getting that yoke pressed back in there with the nut. I about broke my ratchet, and my hand. How hard is the conversion? Do the guts have to come out to put in the kit?
Here are a couple pics. Before:
After:
Here are a couple pics. Before:
After:
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 2,274
Likes: 1
From: Milroy, PA
I havent myself done the conversion. It was done to my axle that I ordered, when I ate a spindle. I may be missing something, but it seems to me, you would pull the yoke, then the crush sleeve. Then I would start my measuring the depth of the sleeve currently. Then start with a shim stack about that size. Re install the yoke, then check your gearset, to make sure your pinion depth and backlash are good. R&R the setup untill its correct. I was actually unaware of the setup, untill I went looking for a whole axle assembly, with detroit locker of course.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Dallas-Ft. Worth
If you find some syn 75W-140 without friction modifier, yes. All I could find was Royal Purple, which has the additive already in it. Good stuff, no doubt. Expensive though. About $16/quart, and you need four to get 7 pints in.
Tomorrow I have to change my oil and refill the diff. Then, I have Clay's AIH delete plug to put in, a 6.0 I/C to install (which won't get here until Tues thanks to UPS F'ing up AGAIN), and a turbo to rebuild (to sell).
Tomorrow I have to change my oil and refill the diff. Then, I have Clay's AIH delete plug to put in, a 6.0 I/C to install (which won't get here until Tues thanks to UPS F'ing up AGAIN), and a turbo to rebuild (to sell).
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 862
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From: eastern shore,MD
If you find some syn 75W-140 without friction modifier, yes. All I could find was Royal Purple, which has the additive already in it. Good stuff, no doubt. Expensive though. About $16/quart, and you need four to get 7 pints in.
Tomorrow I have to change my oil and refill the diff. Then, I have Clay's AIH delete plug to put in, a 6.0 I/C to install (which won't get here until Tues thanks to UPS F'ing up AGAIN), and a turbo to rebuild (to sell).
Tomorrow I have to change my oil and refill the diff. Then, I have Clay's AIH delete plug to put in, a 6.0 I/C to install (which won't get here until Tues thanks to UPS F'ing up AGAIN), and a turbo to rebuild (to sell).