When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
From your description, sounds like your pump is okay, but with a gauge you can see when under load will help. They can be okay at idle, and peter out when demand is put on them. Since you're able to smooth out at 2k, I think the fuel supply is okay. When I got a batch of bad fuel and my pre-pump filter clogged, it idled, but had nothing but a feeling like it was running out of fuel when I stepped on the pedal.
I did check the fuel filter, It looked clean and the fuel in the bowl looked clean. The filter was replaced within the last 300 miles. I left the lid a bit loose and turned on the key to check if the pump was online. It sprayed fuel out of the gasket...so I asume the fuel pump is ok, But I haven't put a pressure gauge on it at this point.
Where should I check the pressure, and what type of gauge will I need?
I would like to install an inline gauge for future diagnostics if thats possible.
Most likely not fuel supply but for a temporary fuel pressure gauge you can attach one to the fuel bowl drain outlet tube (see pic). Get a fluid filled pressure gauge (100 PSI ) Some fuel injection rated fuel line to fit the drain tube (long enough to at least see while standing in front of truck) and 4 hose clamps. One clamp for the fuel line to drain tube. One for gauge to fuel line. And two to secure the short hose from drain valve nipple to fuel drain tube just behind the fuel bowl. You don't want that little short piece of hose to leak. Once you have everything tight open the fuel drain and turn on the key. Fuel pump will run for approximately 20 seconds presurizing the system. Check for leaks and then check the pressure. You will have to recycle key for subsequent readings. You can now start the truck and let idle. Ford spec at idle is 53 PSI. For a WOT test you just need a hose long enough to be safely routed to the driver side mirror support for attachment ( read duct tape) to view from driver seat. I would not run it into cab in case it leaks.
I hope this was understandable. If you have any questions just post them or PM me.
Spec is 60 to 70 idle and full load. Dont bother with fuel psi or if you do go last resort. sounds like to me you honestly just have alot of air in the system. When i do injs at work international they reccomend a 20 minutue full load run to purge air. The long start is building ICP. So is your engine light out now? If so bet everything is ok. If you have a bad solemoid CEL will come on. If its other issues such as insufficient flow at the tip you will not get one and need a CCT test done to see which ones are bad. Does it start after you get it hot too? If you dont have any smoke or anything like that and no CEL and it idles good after it sets drive it and it will run as it should after purging air.
Let me try and answer your questions in order. And thank you for the input.
I never got a CEL light from the time I lost the injector (light does work), It takes 6-8 seconds of cranking to get it to fire.
I just went out and started her up, still has a miss but smoothes out after she starts to warm up. it stumbles from idle to 1600 rpm, (yesterday I had to take it up to 2000 to smooth it out), So it looks like its a step in the right direction.
It starts right up after I she warms up. No CEL, no smoke.
Im going to button up the drivers side vc and take her for a drive. You are probably right about the air in the system.
Ill post my results (hoping for positive outcome)
Most likely not fuel supply but for a temporary fuel pressure gauge you can attach one to the fuel bowl drain outlet tube (see pic). Get a fluid filled pressure gauge (100 PSI ) Some fuel injection rated fuel line to fit the drain tube (long enough to at least see while standing in front of truck) and 4 hose clamps. One clamp for the fuel line to drain tube. One for gauge to fuel line. And two to secure the short hose from drain valve nipple to fuel drain tube just behind the fuel bowl. You don't want that little short piece of hose to leak. Once you have everything tight open the fuel drain and turn on the key. Fuel pump will run for approximately 20 seconds presurizing the system. Check for leaks and then check the pressure. You will have to recycle key for subsequent readings. You can now start the truck and let idle. Ford spec at idle is 53 PSI. For a WOT test you just need a hose long enough to be safely routed to the driver side mirror support for attachment ( read duct tape) to view from driver seat. I would not run it into cab in case it leaks.
I hope this was understandable. If you have any questions just post them or PM me.
Robin, that is a GREAT idea. I was hoping I didn't have to crack open a fuel line and introduce more air into the system. I'll keep this In mind, and on file!!
Robin, that is a GREAT idea. I was hoping I didn't have to crack open a fuel line and introduce more air into the system. I'll keep this In mind, and on file!!
Even it you don't need to check it now it's cheap and quick if you need to check fuel pressure in the future, and you can always use the gauge to permanently mount under hood at a later date.
I just took it for a test drive.
Started out smooth, no smoke, still lacking some power, but a definite inprovment...BUT after about the first mile or so the rough idle came back, and it started smoking and running rough again.
I probably drove 4-5 miles in all hoping to clear out the air. Now its running rough and puffing a little bit of smoke at idle.
I dont know if I should keep driving it, or just take it to a pro.
Well dang. I was hoping it would smooth out for good. Did you ever pull the other valve cover and have a look at the harness connection? Need to make sure it's not loose causing intermittent problems.
The following is solely my humble opinion:
I think a fuel pressure gauge permanently mounted under the hood is next to useless. You can't see it when you really need to (under load), so all you see is idle pressures. If you're going to put one in permanently, do it like Brandon & Ron did. Mounted by the driver's side wiper outside (like old-school muscle car style ) is the way to go. Then you can see what your pump/pressure is doing under load...
Well dang. I was hoping it would smooth out for good. Did you ever pull the other valve cover and have a look at the harness connection? Need to make sure it's not loose causing intermittent problems.
No, I never did pull the pass side vc. Im getting frustrated, and im ready to take it to a dealer and let them trace the problem...
No, I never did pull the pass side vc. Im getting frustrated, and im ready to take it to a dealer and let them trace the problem...
Pull that passenger side VC. Then you'll know.
Originally Posted by Izzy351
The following is solely my humble opinion:
I think a fuel pressure gauge permanently mounted under the hood is next to useless. You can't see it when you really need to (under load), so all you see is idle pressures. If you're going to put one in permanently, do it like Brandon & Ron did. Mounted by the driver's side wiper outside (like old-school muscle car style ) is the way to go. Then you can see what your pump/pressure is doing under load...
Joe,
I couldn't agree more. I was just trying to give him a quick and cheap way. I just got 6 new ISSPRO Performax gauges and one of them is an electronically isolated Fuel Pressure gauge.
Your right, I'll go out and pull it.
I needed to walk away from it for a bit, I was starting to get frustrated
That's a smart move. Good job on knowing when to walk away for a while...
Sometimes unnecessary stuff gets broken when frustration sets in I know all too well...
EDIT: I understand, Robin. I forgot about the isolated type -- that's a good option as well. I like the look of the gauge mounted outside by the back of the hood though. I guess that goes back to my love for old muscle cars...
That's a smart move. Good job on knowing when to walk away for a while...
Sometimes unnecessary stuff gets broken when frustration sets in I know all too well...
Very wise words Joe. That's why I left my rear brake job and came inside. I was making silly mistakes. Don't want to do that with anything let alone brakes. Take a little break and then back to work.
I got my motivation back long enough to get the intercooler tube off the right side, then very heavy rain came and interupted the disassembly process.
Tomorrow is another day...meanwhile I'll have a rum and coke, & smoke a cigar...