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Yes smoke is something you will se alot of. You know thinkin about the guys who worked on the truck not knowing anything about the 7.3. If you do not drain the fuel and oil rail it will smoke and run VERY bad. It will even sometimes hydrolock the cly and cause it not to turn over. Its even possible to bend a rod or blow out injector orings but thats rare. Did he suck ou the cly or anything when he did it? If you ever change a inj yourself its cheaper for you to get a little pump and stick down the inj cup hole and suck it out that way no plus pulled out and the really never come out easy anyways. Another thing. When those dudes installed your inj did they let it set for at least 10 minutes upon installation of the new inj orings? This is a very important process. It lets the rings have a chance to set and if you dont let them set it will no seat right cause icp loss. more thinking abou the CEL coming on could probably be a ICP unable to build at engine crank. this code comes when you change injs all the time. Hope some of the stuff i told you helps.
He did suck out the cylinder, I remember him telling me, plus they turned the motor over for a good 20-30 seconds twice to blow out the oil before installing the new injector.
I dont know about the orings. He also claimed to have changed injectors many times before????
DO you think it could be the transfer pump taking a *****? Had this happen on a 04 6.0L. Idled really rough and had no power. I replaced the pump and it ran like crap for awhile tell all the air was purged out of the system. Just a thought!
He did suck out the cylinder, I remember him telling me, plus they turned the motor over for a good 20-30 seconds twice to blow out the oil before installing the new injector.
I dont know about the orings. He also claimed to have changed injectors many times before????
If he changed injectors alot he should have know that. You shouldnt have had to tell him. Plus did he have the IPR and ICP unhooked so that no more oil pumped into the cly? HAve you got any further yet?
No, I haven't. I worked all day. and came home to rain.
Not having a garage is gonna slow me down. It hasn't rained here for months, now they are calling for it everyday this week...
Ill do what I can in between the rain drops.
Ok, got the drivers side VC off. It takes a good 8-10 seconds of cranking to get her to fire. she was idling rough as expected. I unpluged each injector one by one and they all made the idle alot worse when inplugged. So we know they are all working.
I brought the idle up to 2k or so and the engine smooths out. the idle seemed to smooth out also after running her for about 5 mins or so. BUT, between idle and 2k its stumbles and shakes.
Before I pull the passenger side VC I thought I would post the results so far and wait for some input.
I will restart it when it cools off and check the idle again. If its still smooth Im thinking that maybe the shop didn't let it run long enough to purge the air from the system.
Plus, as I said in a previous post, when it lost power initally, It had zero power and was shaking pretty bad. It has to be more than just one injector???
I'll let the experts chime in.
Thanks
Shaking really bad means more than one injector. When you pulled the valve cover and started it, did you watch for oil discharge from the injectors, or just start unplugging them? Each injector should spit about the same amount of oil. If you have a bad injector solenoid, this can cause the IDM to shut down the entire bank of injectors. I'd go ahead and pull the other valve cover, then inspect the oil discharge from all 8 injectors to see if you get a hint as to what's going on.
I may have missed it, but is there a reason you checked the drivers side first? Do you suspect issues on that side, or just decided that one looked like an easy place to start?
Shaking really bad means more than one injector. When you pulled the valve cover and started it, did you watch for oil discharge from the injectors, or just start unplugging them? Each injector should spit about the same amount of oil. If you have a bad injector solenoid, this can cause the IDM to shut down the entire bank of injectors. I'd go ahead and pull the other valve cover, then inspect the oil discharge from all 8 injectors to see if you get a hint as to what's going on.
I may have missed it, but is there a reason you checked the drivers side first? Do you suspect issues on that side, or just decided that one looked like an easy place to start?
All the injectors on the driver side have the same amount of oil discharge. then I started unpluging them. I started on that side because it was easier to remove the vc.
If the IDM shut down the entire bank, then unplugging them would have made no difference at all correct??
Im just looking for the cause of the rough idle and loss of power. Ill pull the other VC tomorrow and see what I can find.
Usually unplugging an injector causes a slight, but noticeable miss. If they're all spitting oil, and unplugging one injector has a drastic affect, it sounds like it's the other bank that is having the problem. Right now, it's sounding like you're issue is on the passenger side.
Unplugging an injector will cause a dead miss there, Chris.
Definately an engine shaker.
.
Waiting to hear what is found on the other side.
I know it causes a miss Dan, but when someone accidentally knocked an injector plug off of one injector on their wife's truck, the miss was not nearly as bad as I expected it to be.
Maybe I just am thinking in the wrong terms of shaking. There was some vibration when only running on 7 cylinders. Running on 4 cylinders the whole truck shakes like a paint mixer. I experienced a dead bank on a work truck before I felt one dead injector, so maybe my perspective is skewed.
I guess what I mean is one dead injector is a slight miss compared to a dead bank. If you haven't experienced both, you may not share my opinion. Anyone else seen this, or am I crazy?
maybe i missed it, but have you checked your fuel pressure and fuel filter? keep us posted!
I did check the fuel filter, It looked clean and the fuel in the bowl looked clean. The filter was replaced within the last 300 miles. I left the lid a bit loose and turned on the key to check if the pump was online. It sprayed fuel out of the gasket...so I asume the fuel pump is ok, But I haven't put a pressure gauge on it at this point.
Where should I check the pressure, and what type of gauge will I need?
I would like to install an inline gauge for future diagnostics if thats possible.
I did check the fuel filter, It looked clean and the fuel in the bowl looked clean. The filter was replaced within the last 300 miles. I left the lid a bit loose and turned on the key to check if the pump was online. It sprayed fuel out of the gasket...so I asume the fuel pump is ok, But I haven't put a pressure gauge on it at this point.
Where should I check the pressure, and what type of gauge will I need?
I would like to install an inline gauge for future diagnostics if thats possible.
Spec is 60 to 70 idle and full load. Dont bother with fuel psi or if you do go last resort. sounds like to me you honestly just have alot of air in the system. When i do injs at work international they reccomend a 20 minutue full load run to purge air. The long start is building ICP. So is your engine light out now? If so bet everything is ok. If you have a bad solemoid CEL will come on. If its other issues such as insufficient flow at the tip you will not get one and need a CCT test done to see which ones are bad. Does it start after you get it hot too? If you dont have any smoke or anything like that and no CEL and it idles good after it sets drive it and it will run as it should after purging air.