was a wrench for years b4 that tho. 
Testing Balljoints
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 12,177
Likes: 40
From: Newport, WA
I never use a 2x4 or a prybar, just jack the wheel up and grab the tire and try to move it. If you feel any movement, it's new balljoint time.
Oddly enough, just after I bought my truck I realized the lower driver's balljoint was shot, so I replaced everything on that side (ESOF seals, upper/lower ball joint, etc). but the pass. side was fine so I left it alone. Checked everything out about a month ago, and the pass. side is still nice and tight.
Jay- you'll probably need a press to get the upper (IIRC) ball joint out- I was able to drive one out with a hammer, but the other one needed pressed out. Also a neat trick for getting the ball joint to pop loose if it's stubborn- drive a pickle fork in on the upper ball joint nice and snug, then hit the knuckle with a good sized hammer. The vibration from the hammer along with the pressure from the pickle fork will pop the ball joints free.
Oddly enough, just after I bought my truck I realized the lower driver's balljoint was shot, so I replaced everything on that side (ESOF seals, upper/lower ball joint, etc). but the pass. side was fine so I left it alone. Checked everything out about a month ago, and the pass. side is still nice and tight.
Jay- you'll probably need a press to get the upper (IIRC) ball joint out- I was able to drive one out with a hammer, but the other one needed pressed out. Also a neat trick for getting the ball joint to pop loose if it's stubborn- drive a pickle fork in on the upper ball joint nice and snug, then hit the knuckle with a good sized hammer. The vibration from the hammer along with the pressure from the pickle fork will pop the ball joints free.
Thread Starter
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 28,304
Likes: 6
From: BLT, MN
I never use a 2x4 or a prybar, just jack the wheel up and grab the tire and try to move it. If you feel any movement, it's new balljoint time.
Oddly enough, just after I bought my truck I realized the lower driver's balljoint was shot, so I replaced everything on that side (ESOF seals, upper/lower ball joint, etc). but the pass. side was fine so I left it alone. Checked everything out about a month ago, and the pass. side is still nice and tight.
Jay- you'll probably need a press to get the upper (IIRC) ball joint out- I was able to drive one out with a hammer, but the other one needed pressed out. Also a neat trick for getting the ball joint to pop loose if it's stubborn- drive a pickle fork in on the upper ball joint nice and snug, then hit the knuckle with a good sized hammer. The vibration from the hammer along with the pressure from the pickle fork will pop the ball joints free.
Oddly enough, just after I bought my truck I realized the lower driver's balljoint was shot, so I replaced everything on that side (ESOF seals, upper/lower ball joint, etc). but the pass. side was fine so I left it alone. Checked everything out about a month ago, and the pass. side is still nice and tight.
Jay- you'll probably need a press to get the upper (IIRC) ball joint out- I was able to drive one out with a hammer, but the other one needed pressed out. Also a neat trick for getting the ball joint to pop loose if it's stubborn- drive a pickle fork in on the upper ball joint nice and snug, then hit the knuckle with a good sized hammer. The vibration from the hammer along with the pressure from the pickle fork will pop the ball joints free.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 10,977
Likes: 5
From: Lancaster, Pa.
Jay, don't know if you were told or not but try to get the Moog ball joints, their not that much more and their greasable and their much more durable. Most of those other ones just come with a one year warranty, the Moog's you get a better warranty.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 10,977
Likes: 5
From: Lancaster, Pa.
It your choice Jay, the reason I suggest it is theirs not to much of a difference in price, around here anyways,maybe 5 bucks. The reason I go heavy duty is our motors are heavy and its piece of mind for me. Good luck whatever you go with..
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 2,295
Likes: 0
From: Big Lake, MN
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 10,977
Likes: 5
From: Lancaster, Pa.
Sorry Jay
I would say if Ed said they were OK, I would go for them, wait a bit for some more feedback from other FTE'ers that change theirs out...
I would say if Ed said they were OK, I would go for them, wait a bit for some more feedback from other FTE'ers that change theirs out...
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 9,359
Likes: 1
From: Hampstead, NC
I appreciate that Dale. Not sure exactly when I will do this but it needs to be soon I think. Not sure how bad is bad so I do not want to push it. We may need to do a mini G2G. Mike (Ford79) offered his help also and has all the tools. Maybe we could load up and head to his place (just across the border in WI). I will keep you posted.
Load up and head on over. You are all welcome here.
I'd say if Ed can get you the Motorcraft greasable's for 1/3 the price of Moog's, go for it.
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