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yea its an 8.8 rear end. right now its got like a 3.08 open rear, i have a 3.55 track lok rear end thats going to go in for now, might upgrade to 3.73s later on but ill see how i like it with the 3.55s first.
Wow.. this thread has really taken off. As for the car start removing everything that doesn't absolutely have to be there. I helped dismantle a '90 mustang one thime and I bet there was at least a couple hundred pounds of wiring behind the dash, the air bag harness alone was hugh with sensors all over the car. You could easily remove all this and whatever other luxury items the car has without affecting basic operation. Swap in manual buckets for powered seats, crank windows, fiberglass bumpers, remove the spare, delete the AC, the list goes on, just depends what you can live without.
the a/c complete system is the first stuff to go. im going to see what the lightest seats i can find for cheap money are. it has a big front bench seat now so converting to buckets will probably save some weight. this is going to get driven alot so it still needs things like heat and such, and would like it to be somewhat comfortable. there are aluminum bumpers available for it, havent seen any fiberglass ones anywhere but aluminum will cut down on wieght. im also going to see what steel parts under hood and such can be removed and what i can replace with aluminum parts. it only has a airbag on the steering wheel similar to the 94-up ford trucks so i can save some weight by getting a different steering wheel without an airbag. the aluminum fuel cell im assuming will be lighter than the steel one it has. ill try to get some pics on here of the car, motor and other things. the tranny has to come out since its blown anyways and i have a replacement one ready. if anyone has opinions on a good torque converter for daily driver use on this car it would help since ive never gotten an aftermarket torque converter, i was thinking of the b&m holeshot 2400?
I like the B&M stuff never had any problem with it . I would wait on the converter untell you get the motor done . I thought i was going to need one in my truck but after a good dyno tune & torque converter adjustmeant i didnt need one . My stock converters stall is 1900 ..Lew
Hey...ran across this today from archives...another 347 Dyno test. This was from FordMuscle...they just happened to be flow testing some AFR165's and the shop where they were doing the work wanted them to throw them on their "stroker package" to see what it would do. Again, agrees closely to what our simulated dyno runs are showing.
With timing and fuel properly set we started making pulls for the books. The first set of pulls were made with the standard AFR 165 heads. The motor belted out 440 horsepower at 6250 rpm and 418 lb-ft of torque at 4300 rpm. What is stunning is the table-flat torque curve from 3500 rpm to 5500 which maintains over 400 lb-ft of torque.
looks like basically the afr 185s add alot of torque figuring my build has a pretty steady torque curve peaking near 500 ft lbs. im kind of curious on the specs of their pistons, since all they say is "coated", sounds like they are the hypereutectics with that special coating you can get for them which increases strength of them. im still not certain if i should use hypereutectic or forged pistons
Those are some good torque numbers !! The 93 stangs had hypereutectic pistons in them & i heard they are very good a little lighter than the forged . But if you use nitrous or forced induction your better off with the forged pistons .. All this 347 stroker talk is getting me motavated . I want to build one but i think i got at least another two years left in the 302 . But i will be ready when the time comes . So hope to learn some good info off of this thread...Lew
just got off the phone with airflow research. pretty good tech department there. the afr 165 and 185 series heads with pedestal mount rockers are setup to work with stock pushrod length and are good for .600 lift, sounds good to me. i wont be supercharging seeing as my compression ratio is going to be around 10.5/10.8:1. and i doubt id throw any nitrous at it so i think ill be ok with hypers which ive heard are actually a little better for a daily driver as they dont expand as much as forged, so they allow for a tighter fit in the bore, they dont take as long to warm up and arent as prone to piston slap. who needs nos when ill already be over 400hp lol and the stroker kit im using claims to be good to 500hp., ill just do more tweaking on the car setup if i feel the need to be faster but if this car will really pull a 13 second quarter that would be impressive. im getting different ratings for what people say a 90 crown vic weighs. the highest weight ive heard is 4026 pounds, but ive heard as low as 3600. im guessing with the stuff ill remove ill be around 3800-3900.
some people on the mustang boards argue and argue about this so i thought id ask here will i need a high volume oil pump or will a stock replacement be fine? i cant see how a high volume would really hurt anything. should i get an oil pan with extra capacity?
The bottom line on oil pumps is if the motor has all stock spec clearances then a regular volume oil pump will be sufficient. A high volume pump will put more load on the timing set and the pump drive shaft so upgraded parts are a good idea here if you go that way.
P.S. I haven't run this setup through DD yet but my gut feeling is that it won't really produce close to 500 ft/lbs TQ... should be more like 400ft/lbs, but won't know for sure though until I try.
ok, so since the main bearing, and other bearing sizes arent affected by the stroker kit then i should be fine. ill probably be using a comp cams double roller timing set. hopefully the 347 will clear the stock oil pan and not have any issues with oil supply?
also, id appreciate it if you ran it through DD that way id have more than one estimate on where ill be. i think i could probably find a better cam but the e303 doesnt seem too bad, according to 73fomos dyno results.
Yeah...let me know what you come up with on your's Paul. I have kept tweaking...see latest below...my inputs on DD and they seem to be right on target...especially after I ran the Carcraft 400 numbers to verify their results. If anything, maybe 20 lbs to the high side on torque. I think the e303 is a good fit, I was thinking it was exactly the same as the cam you spec'd. at .050 lift 220/200, .498/.498. Valve events IVO (BTDC) 0, IVC (ABDC) 40, EVO (BBDC) 40, EVC (ATDC) 0. Lobe Sep. 110.
I am showing a maximum torque of 469 @ 3500 rpm on my latest run. I have continued to tweak the input from my original posted run that did show 493 pounds. 469 is probably a little closer. I show 408 pounds at 2,000 rpm and maintaining over 400 pounds all the way through 5500rpm. Max hp of 425 at 5500rpm. One thing I changed was going to a 4.010 bore/.040 gasket thickness lower compression slightly to 10.56.
yea, the e303 is the same as the one i spec'd. i probably will go with the 1.7 roller rockers to gain a little power. im waiting for a guy to get back to me on possibly a better cam but right now the e303 looks good to me
I used the e303 cam in the mustangs & allways worked good . I run the e 303 in my truck with 1.72 scorpion rockers . I dont know if you can use the 1.72 rockers on a head with 202 valves with out clearence problems ???? Seems i heard something about that ?? Lew
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Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.