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Old Apr 29, 2009 | 11:19 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by silver05fx4
get out your 2009 f150 owners guide turn to page 277 and read the bottom right coner

i see what your talking about, i read it. but we are not talkinga bout the elock. this is about the open and ls diffs. the elock is a completed different subject and has nothing to do with the ls or open diff. it could be used on both,

but, ford used it on the 3.73 ls diffs for the fx4. yes it says it functions like a standard axle, a standard axle isnt just an open, ls is also considered a standard axle but it does have the clutch plates in there to help the rear lock together on loose traction. its doesnt work 100% of the time but most of the time, and a whole lot more than just a regular open diff would.
 
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Old Apr 29, 2009 | 11:23 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by cpdorroh
Technically, an open diff can spin both tires simultaneously. This should occur when the amount of traction at both rear tires is equal. In practice, however, this is almost never the case. But, I have seen some open diff trucks spin both tires, usually on loose surfaces like snow and gravel. Usually, this would only last a second before all the power transferred to one tire.
very well put. if traction is EQUAL to both sides.

my 05 had an open and when i tried to do a burnout i could only get one wheel due to the drag from the brakes. but if i was on a rock road and nailed it then yeah both tires would let loose UNTIL one got better traction than the other.


on a ls diff brake drag is not a problem, it pulls through it and lets both tires spin.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2009 | 04:34 PM
  #33  
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From: altoona
well i found a little video on ebay that i hope set some facts stright. it shows a fx4 in a ford demo video about the rear locker and haveing open diff's

YouTube - 2009 F-150 with "Detroit Locker"
 
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Old Apr 30, 2009 | 07:51 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by silver05fx4
well i found a little video on ebay that i hope set some facts stright. it shows a fx4 in a ford demo video about the rear locker and haveing open diff's

YouTube - 2009 F-150 with "Detroit Locker"
That sure does look like an open diff, and they guy does say that the truck has open diffs. However, some of the stories on here sure sound like an LS.

Oh well, I don't really have a dog in this fight.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2009 | 11:04 PM
  #35  
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Here is a good link for the difference between an open, limited slip, and locking rear end.

Open, Limited Slip, and Locking Differentials - - Off-Road.com

If the FX4 has an open rear then why can it get the max tow package? The max tow package requires a 3.73 limited slip rear.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2009 | 11:21 PM
  #36  
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I just did a test in my Fx4. I was able to do a two wheel burnout. There was smoke coming from both tires. I laid down a nice patch of rubber on each side. I have owned three one-legger fords before this and have never had this result. I did take pictures and I will post them in an hour or so. Silver05fx4 why don't you just pull your diff cover off. I know you want to paint it red.
 
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Old May 1, 2009 | 01:22 AM
  #37  
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Okay here are the pics I promised. I coached my little brother on how to perform a "burnout". I told him to turn off the traction control by holding the button in for 5 seconds. I told him to put the gear selector in "1" and then hold the brake while applying the accelerator. These are kind of crappy pics but I think you get the point. This test is, however, inconclusive because I have been informed by other members that an open differential can infact perform this same "burnout". You decide for yourself but my last three fords could only perform a "one leg" burnout.







Oh and if it looks like the the tires don't line up with the skid marks on the last picture, it is because I went to get some movies after the burnout and didn't discover the marks until after.

Regardless of whether the FX4 carries a limited slip differential or an open differential, it obviously has a sh**load of traction.
 
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Old May 1, 2009 | 05:19 AM
  #38  
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Call me slow or old fashioned but ........

Do you guys really want to pay 30k plus for a truck to see if you can "Burn out" both tires.

Let me see.... You go out and burn the tires off to the rim and break the rear ends, engines or, transmissons. You then claim it has a fault in the design and claim it under warranty for the repair.

What if a Service manager is reading this and notices and remembers your bragging when you bring it in. He tells you the repairs are not covered and it will cost you 3000 or more.

Call me old school, but a truck is a truck, a car is a car, and a hotrod is a hotrod.

just my two cents.......
 
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Old May 1, 2009 | 07:43 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by broncobran68
I have been informed by other members that an open differential can infact perform this same "burnout".

The key word there is CAN, not "will" or "usually does". I agree, it seems to me that 9 times out of 10 an open diff will only spin one tire. Spinning two is usually a fluke.

I'm not advocating doing burnouts all the time either. However, I will admit that there was a time many years back that I drove my old truck like I stole it (nothing in my sig). I think we all go through that phase, and it's usually called "high school".

In this case, I think everyone just wants to know how the rear diff works on the FX4 mostly for traction purposes. At least, that's what I think.
 
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Old May 1, 2009 | 08:01 AM
  #40  
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From: altoona
well i tested mine and called dealer about still to find the same answer, open diff with a locker
 
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Old May 1, 2009 | 11:36 AM
  #41  
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From: Dayton, TX
Originally Posted by silver05fx4
well i found a little video on ebay that i hope set some facts stright. it shows a fx4 in a ford demo video about the rear locker and haveing open diff's

YouTube - 2009 F-150 with "Detroit Locker"
well yeah it gonna spin like crazy in this test because its to much traction loss. i have watched every one of these things. rear is a ls, front is open.

i have a ls diff, i know for sure. im done talkin about this
 
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Old May 1, 2009 | 12:09 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by peter.jones
Do you guys really want to pay 30k plus for a truck to see if you can "Burn out" both tires.

Let me see.... You go out and burn the tires off to the rim and break the rear ends, engines or, transmissons. You then claim it has a fault in the design and claim it under warranty for the repair.

What if a Service manager is reading this and notices and remembers your bragging when you bring it in. He tells you the repairs are not covered and it will cost you 3000 or more.

Call me old school, but a truck is a truck, a car is a car, and a hotrod is a hotrod.

just my two cents.......
Yeah that's the last time I will be doing that. I didn't roast them completely, just a quick test of my limited slip. And my truck will probably get abused a lot harder than that up in the mountains. The value of this truck is going to fall dramatically regardless of how it is used so I might as well enjoy it. And if it can't handle a quick tire spin I need to know about it so I can trade it in.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2020 | 12:08 AM
  #43  
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Hey guys! I’m a small town, East Tennessee girl and new 2012 F-150 Lariat owner! She’s my first truck and still has the drive out tags on her. I love everything about her except the issues I’m currently having. So I’m going to start from Friday September 18, which was 11 days ago and when I took my truck to get brakes. The shop I took it to told me I needed to have new brake pads, rotors, calibers and new lines all the way around so me wanting to take care of my truck, thats the repairs that ended up happening that day. Fast forward to Wednesday, September 23 (5 days later), I’m going to pick up a 14’ trailer with a full load one it to transport an hour down the interstate and as I was backing up to connect, my truck started making this god awful sound and was not wanting to move so thinking I was running over something or dragging this enormous piece of metal or something horrific, I get out to check. I couldn’t see anything and for a little bit was baffled then as I was checking back over the tire areas, I realize my caliber has fallen off! It had dug a grove in my wheel as well. Obviously I’m irate! I call the shop that did my brakes and the manager answers and after I tell him calmly what just happened, he tells me to tow it there!!! Calm left my body at that point and he ended up getting the tow truck to pick it up himself. About an hour later they say that they replaced the bolt that wasn’t in the caliber and everything was good now and that its ready for me. I ask about the wheel and he said it was fine… Obviously the groove in the wheel on my new truck with drive out tags still on it was not fine with me at all. So at this point I’m believing nothing they say and I’m scared to even drive my truck and definitely didn’t feel safe hauling a loaded trailer anywhere, especially down the interstate. I called tow truck to have it taken to a different mechanic. Apparently the shop owner asked the tow driver where he was taking it and by the time we got to the other shop, he had already called that shop owner and basically said I was over reacting and that he had already fixed everything. So the new shop spends about 5 minutes glancing over it with it still running. It was never even elevated. But somehow, like an idiot, I allowed the new shop owner to convince me everything was fine and I left there driving the truck. Fast forward to today, 6 days later, I’m driving down the interstate and my truck starts vibrating like crazy and making weird sounds so I pull off immediately and naturally my first instinct at this point was took at the brakes. All calibers were still there and appears to be in place and brake pads were still there so I just started looking everywhere and since it was dark I just used my video on my phone and took a video of all areas around each wheel and tire, front and back. I was getting cold so went back to sit in the truck to watch the video and see if I could at least see something that looked different from its opposite side. Of course when I’m watching the part around the wheel that was the same one the caliber had came off on, I’m seeing what looks like some sort of liquid in the wheel well and on the parts that actually connect the tire to the truck. I’m not sure what to do at this point, I’m not a mechanic and obviously I need to tow it somewhere but not sure where or who I can trust at this point to do their job and I’m just not wanting to die in this truck honestly. I’m at least in an area with service but this sucks and its costing me a lot of money and preventing me from working and I’m just clueless on how to handle this right now. Not sure what else is damaged or what else could’ve been damaged due to their extreme negligence that could’ve already taken my life, and almost did, at least once. Any suggestions, info, anything would be greatly appreciated right now. It’s costing me more than my 69’ bus ever did. Not to mention it’s interfering with my business life a great deal at this point and I just wish I had never went to that shop. This is a nightmare.

From the side of the road,

~Laura



September 23

September 23

September 23

September 23

September 23

September 23

September 23

Tonight

Tonight

Tonight

Tonight

Tonight

Tonight

Tonight



 
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Old Oct 1, 2020 | 11:46 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Bald_Eagle
Hey guys! I’m a small town, East Tennessee girl and new 2012 F-150 Lariat owner! She’s my first truck and still has the drive out tags on her. I love everything about her except the issues I’m currently having. So I’m going to start from Friday September 18, which was 11 days ago and when I took my truck to get brakes. The shop I took it to told me I needed to have new brake pads, rotors, calibers and new lines all the way around so me wanting to take care of my truck, thats the repairs that ended up happening that day. Fast forward to Wednesday, September 23 (5 days later), I’m going to pick up a 14’ trailer with a full load one it to transport an hour down the interstate and as I was backing up to connect, my truck started making this god awful sound and was not wanting to move so thinking I was running over something or dragging this enormous piece of metal or something horrific, I get out to check. I couldn’t see anything and for a little bit was baffled then as I was checking back over the tire areas, I realize my caliber has fallen off! It had dug a grove in my wheel as well. Obviously I’m irate! I call the shop that did my brakes and the manager answers and after I tell him calmly what just happened, he tells me to tow it there!!! Calm left my body at that point and he ended up getting the tow truck to pick it up himself. About an hour later they say that they replaced the bolt that wasn’t in the caliber and everything was good now and that its ready for me. I ask about the wheel and he said it was fine… Obviously the groove in the wheel on my new truck with drive out tags still on it was not fine with me at all. So at this point I’m believing nothing they say and I’m scared to even drive my truck and definitely didn’t feel safe hauling a loaded trailer anywhere, especially down the interstate. I called tow truck to have it taken to a different mechanic. Apparently the shop owner asked the tow driver where he was taking it and by the time we got to the other shop, he had already called that shop owner and basically said I was over reacting and that he had already fixed everything. So the new shop spends about 5 minutes glancing over it with it still running. It was never even elevated. But somehow, like an idiot, I allowed the new shop owner to convince me everything was fine and I left there driving the truck. Fast forward to today, 6 days later, I’m driving down the interstate and my truck starts vibrating like crazy and making weird sounds so I pull off immediately and naturally my first instinct at this point was took at the brakes. All calibers were still there and appears to be in place and brake pads were still there so I just started looking everywhere and since it was dark I just used my video on my phone and took a video of all areas around each wheel and tire, front and back. I was getting cold so went back to sit in the truck to watch the video and see if I could at least see something that looked different from its opposite side. Of course when I’m watching the part around the wheel that was the same one the caliber had came off on, I’m seeing what looks like some sort of liquid in the wheel well and on the parts that actually connect the tire to the truck. I’m not sure what to do at this point, I’m not a mechanic and obviously I need to tow it somewhere but not sure where or who I can trust at this point to do their job and I’m just not wanting to die in this truck honestly. I’m at least in an area with service but this sucks and its costing me a lot of money and preventing me from working and I’m just clueless on how to handle this right now. Not sure what else is damaged or what else could’ve been damaged due to their extreme negligence that could’ve already taken my life, and almost did, at least once. Any suggestions, info, anything would be greatly appreciated right now. It’s costing me more than my 69’ bus ever did. Not to mention it’s interfering with my business life a great deal at this point and I just wish I had never went to that shop. This is a nightmare.

From the side of the road,

~Laura
Wow, sorry I didn't see this for a few days.

My guess is that it didn't need some or all that stuff in the first place, unless there were pre-existing issues that you didn't mention above. I've lost count of how many friends tell me that a shop says they need approximately the same list. On a few occasions I've had the opportunity to ask why . . . and almost every time the answer is BS and they can't point at anything wrong with the old rotors and calipers . . . and it really just needs pads (and sometimes doesn't need pads either).

My other guess is that they didn't tighten one or more brake lines and/or something was damaged when the caliper fell off.

Take it to a Ford dealership. Make sure they itemize the issues they see related to the original repairs. If the dealership says wheel with the groove in it is safe then okay, if not, replace it. From the picture, it looks okay to me, but I'm not there.

While you're waiting on it there, write up everything that happened including dates and times (which you've already accounted for pretty well above). Also include the original reason you brought this job to them in the first place. Give the bad shop this write-up and a chance to pay the bill. If they refuse, you'll probably want to report them to the BBB and depending on your preference you might want to review them at Yelp etc.

You might want to take them to small claims court. Make sure to bill for your time and loss of use if local laws allow.

You probably can't really do anything to the second shop that did the bad inspection . . . unless you paid them a bunch of money to do it.

This isn't to say that non-dealership shops are bad and dealers are good. Dealerships have their issues as well. You just ran across a couple of bad shops.

If you need more advice, feel free to bug us. I think I'm accurate in saying that most of us that help out here have seen this kind of thing happen too often and take some enjoyment from helping someone get out from under this kind of mess.

Oh yeah, one more thing: Make sure the underside of your truck gets cleaned really well. Lots of water and not necessarily lots of pressure. I think your second failure was a brake line failing, letting brake fluid get all over. Brake fluid eats paint.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2020 | 03:44 PM
  #45  
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Sounds like the typical "here comes a girl, let's make some money!" I concur with everything CC says above, including the washing. I'm sorry to say you're in for a long battle and no one is going to take you seriously. Contact owners, not managers. Might take some digging but they are there. Good luck!

Unfortunately you don't say where you are. Someone might be able to recommend good folks or lend a hand themselves if we knew.
 
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